For as long as I have been wet shaving I had never used an ‘adjustable’ adjustable. However, having made that grandeurs statement, I have had the pleasure of being able to change plates to achieve different levels of aggression in a number of razors but never being able to adjust the level of aggressiveness on the razor itself on the run. As my menagerie of razors grows I have been acquiring adjustables without really setting out to, so I’ve taken this opportunity to use all of them and present my thoughts. I had been doing a run of shaves with Gillette razors and eventually the time came to try out one of my Slims. Everything snowballed from there. I would continue my usual practice of shaving every second day; use two different blades in each razor and discard each blade after the second shave. If I felt the razor was a ‘dog’ I would stop early. It was never my intention to see how macho I was by taking each razor to the limit but instead to find a sweet spot and shave in that number. One thing in my favour was that I did know that I generally preferred a medium aggressive razor so there was no requirement to start at the very lowest setting. I would start around the mid setting and work from there. There is no particular order of try out but the order they are presented is the order of use.
Gillette Slim: Range of setting (1) – (9).
The Gillette Slim is a popular razor amongst the shaving community so it requires little introduction to most. The Slim is a one piece design with a twist to open action. It is a compact design and in my opinion is well balanced, feeling really good in the hand. This particular Slim is J 2 so was manufactured in 1964. I would suggest that it has had very little use as there was no plating missing and everything functioned as I would expect with the adjuster ring providing positive positioning at all settings. As I said this was to be my very first shave with an adjustable so I started out on (3) but after a couple of strokes went to (4) and finished off the first shave on (5). The next and all subsequent shaves was on (6). The Slim felt very confidence inspiring, was very forgiving and delivered a good shave but not a great shave. If only it provided a closer shave. Blades used – Astra Green & Polsilver
Apollo Mikron: Range of settings (1) – (8).
My particular example was probably made in Germany in the late 1950’s. It is a beautifully made razor with a highly polished head and the tapered handle has longitudinal grooves and is nicely knurled. This is a physically large two piece razor with everything looking oversized; the tapered handle especially at the white Bakelite adjusting knob end expands to just over 19mm in diameter. Because the width of the head looked so narrow against the physical size of the rest of the razor I inserted a blade just to convince myself that it was going to fit. The white adjuster is attractively marked with black numbers aligned to a red dot on the handle. The top cap has tabs covering the end of the blade and a red assembly line matching one on the bottom of the head. Without a blade fitted the whole mechanism spins freely on the threads but with a blade fitted everything firms up and stays in place. Adjustability is determined by pressure applied to the blade by the cap around the base plate when the handle is screwed down. One thing here though is that with a blade fitted the lowest setting obtainable is (2). I started the shave on (4) and went to (5) for the remainder of the first shave. The second and all other shaves was on (4) where it produced an exceptionally good close shave. I was concerned initially that with such a big head it would have difficulty shaving under the nose, no problems, the cap is very narrow(I always use down strokes under the nose). The Mikron demands respect but that respect rewards with a near perfect and close shave.
As with many German produced goods, the more I used the Micron the more I appreciated what the razor engineer had set out to achieve when he sat down to design this razor. For the most part he got things pretty well right. If only he could have designed it to be of less generous proportions. For daily use, not for me. Blades used – Muhle & Kai
B&R Adjustable: Range of settings (1) – (8).
B&R is a joint production of two razor manufacturing icons Barbaros and Rocnel. Machined completely from stainless steel, this razor was manufactured in Turkey in 2016. It is a three piece razor with an exceptional highly polished head and has grippy knurling on the large solid handle; no machining marks are visible. The razor‘s adjustability works on the simple theory of applying variable pressure via a screwing action on a spring loaded base plate. I have been advised that work on these razors is suspended and it is not know if production can/ will be started again.
Without a blade fitted the mechanism gives a totally different feel compared to when a blade is in position. With a blade fitted the mechanism screws down firmly and lines up on the (1) mark. The head has no alignment marks so it is possible to assemble the razor with the alignment mark being one half turn out (adjustment will be set at (5) mark). As is becoming my usual practice now I started out on the mid setting of (4) but soon changed to (3) for the first shave. All other shaves were completed on setting (2). The quality of the shave from the B&R is right there with the closest and best shaves I have ever had especially with the Astra Green blade. This razor certainly let you know that any lapses of your concentration would result in blood loss. Not the best razor for those starting out in wet shaving or for those who prefer a mild shave. Blades used – Astra Green & Feather
Merkur Solingen Futur: Range of settings (1) – (6).
With the Merkur Futur having been on the market for many years and still being in produced in Germany I started this review with high expectations. The Futur is another hefty two piece razor with a unique clip system used to secure the blade and cap in place; after experiencing the clip head I liked the security offered and the ease of changing a blade. With the Futur the varying gap is clearly identifiable as the adjuster is moved. My Future has the brushed finish. I commenced shaving on setting (3) and because it felt right did not go exploring the settings. For quality of shave this razor scores top marks and is very confidence inspiring in use. However, the styling can only be described as bland; large in size, no external markings and even the adjustment numbers are difficult to read. Again, of German manufacture and the more you use the razor the better it feels. The head is long and large; at times the noticeably larger head interfered with the shave. Blades used – Merkur & Polsilver
Parker Variant: Range of settings (1) – (5).
My Variant is one of the latest production so should be free of the head alignment issues affecting some of the earlier production razors. However, before using it I made sure the blade was aligned and evenly spaced in the head; it was, so no issues there. Everything on the razor fitted together perfectly and with the graphite handle it is certainly a nice looking razor. The head while large is not cumbersome and the handle provided a good grip at all times. This three piece razor uses varying pressure on the spring loaded base plate for the adjustment. My razor was manufactured in India; that is the only information displayed on the razor other than the alignment marks.
I started my shave on setting (3) and did not need to make any adjustments. This razor feels secure in the hand and I always felt comfortable while using the razor, very comforting. The quality of the shave is very good but I felt it should have produced a closer shave. Blades used – Gillette Silver Blue & Kai
Gillette Fatboy: Range of settings (1) – (9).
1960 F4. Another Gillette twist to open design that is well known to many. My example was damaged in transit and apart from destroying its plastic case also bent one of the end plates. I straightened the plate back and everything functions now as it should. The nickel plating is in good condition and the black numbers on the adjuster plus the red alignment dot all clearly visible. The Fatboy is a well balanced razor that feels very comfortable in the hand. I could not help but like this razor, confidence inspiring and everything about it feeling just right. Shaving was commenced using setting (5), I tried (6) but went back to (5) for the remainder of the test. I was rewarded with comfortable and very close shaves. Blades used – Sputnik & Gillette Rubie
Detroit Grooming Alpha: Range of settings - Guess
This razor arrived after I started this adjustable test and I have already done a review on the Detroit so a lot of what is written here is a recap. Procurement of this razor was solely due to my interest in machined razors. The Detroit is a hugh piece of metal that is way in excess of what could be described as a normal size razor. The handle alone is 90mm long and 20mm in diameter and the entire razor is machined from stainless steel. The Alpha is a simple three piece design with adjustability being determined by the pressure applied to the blade by the cap around the plate as the handle is screwed down; no springs are used in this design. Apart from the Detroit emblem engraved large and proud on the cap there are no other markings on the razor, not even an alignment marking. A used blade was fitted, the handle screwed down firmly and the 12 O’clock positioned marked. I then filed a mark on the end of the handle giving me reference mark while I used an imaginary clock face for position. A useable range between 4 O’clock and 12 O’clock is available. There is a lot of pressure required to screw the handle down firmly and this is made more difficult by the 1 mm exposed blade on each end of the head making the grip difficult. I used a towel to grip the blunt ends of the blade so it did not spin between my finger and thumb as the handle is screwed down.
From the initial review I knew the sweet spot for me was 7 O’clock so there was no need to explore further. I had never used a Lord blade before but put one in to test the Detroit. From the first stroke with the Lord Cool blade fitted I knew the razor was not performing. I tried unsuccessfully to dial out the problem but to no avail. Bloody terrible shave. The second shave with the Lord fitted was marginally better but still well below par. Fitting the Kai blade improved the razor back to what I knew the Detroit would produce; an average shave.
Don’t ask me why, but for me the sheer mass of this razor seems to disappear while it is being used. Another interesting observation here is heat transfer, something I have never experienced to such an extent before and it must be due to the extra mass of the razor. The Detroit retains the heat of the hot water enough to be noticeable when the razor initially touches the face. It was not enough to burn but you can certainly feel the heat. There’s not a lot going for the poor old Detroit: it’s heavy, it’s awkward, it’s large, it’s cumbersome; it’s a safety hazard, you have to work to get an average shave, but and it’s a big but! Its sheer size means it has presence and the Detroit is the only razor I have used or seen that has a personality. It challenges you ‘Come on big boy, I challenge you to use me and when you do you’ll have to work hard to get an average shave”. By comparison most razors of any manufacturer become bland; put a blade in and shave; it may be a great shave, it may be the worst shave ever but there’s little challenge. I’m a glutton for punishment; I’ll take up the challenge. Blades used Lord Cool & Kai
PS. I have since used a Lord Cool blade in my Charcoal Goods brass #2 and it worked a treat, on par with an Astra Green. I was thinking I should have used the ‘bad blade’ in a known razor but if did not work there I would have thrown all the Lord blades out.
Continued
Gillette Slim: Range of setting (1) – (9).
The Gillette Slim is a popular razor amongst the shaving community so it requires little introduction to most. The Slim is a one piece design with a twist to open action. It is a compact design and in my opinion is well balanced, feeling really good in the hand. This particular Slim is J 2 so was manufactured in 1964. I would suggest that it has had very little use as there was no plating missing and everything functioned as I would expect with the adjuster ring providing positive positioning at all settings. As I said this was to be my very first shave with an adjustable so I started out on (3) but after a couple of strokes went to (4) and finished off the first shave on (5). The next and all subsequent shaves was on (6). The Slim felt very confidence inspiring, was very forgiving and delivered a good shave but not a great shave. If only it provided a closer shave. Blades used – Astra Green & Polsilver
Apollo Mikron: Range of settings (1) – (8).
My particular example was probably made in Germany in the late 1950’s. It is a beautifully made razor with a highly polished head and the tapered handle has longitudinal grooves and is nicely knurled. This is a physically large two piece razor with everything looking oversized; the tapered handle especially at the white Bakelite adjusting knob end expands to just over 19mm in diameter. Because the width of the head looked so narrow against the physical size of the rest of the razor I inserted a blade just to convince myself that it was going to fit. The white adjuster is attractively marked with black numbers aligned to a red dot on the handle. The top cap has tabs covering the end of the blade and a red assembly line matching one on the bottom of the head. Without a blade fitted the whole mechanism spins freely on the threads but with a blade fitted everything firms up and stays in place. Adjustability is determined by pressure applied to the blade by the cap around the base plate when the handle is screwed down. One thing here though is that with a blade fitted the lowest setting obtainable is (2). I started the shave on (4) and went to (5) for the remainder of the first shave. The second and all other shaves was on (4) where it produced an exceptionally good close shave. I was concerned initially that with such a big head it would have difficulty shaving under the nose, no problems, the cap is very narrow(I always use down strokes under the nose). The Mikron demands respect but that respect rewards with a near perfect and close shave.
As with many German produced goods, the more I used the Micron the more I appreciated what the razor engineer had set out to achieve when he sat down to design this razor. For the most part he got things pretty well right. If only he could have designed it to be of less generous proportions. For daily use, not for me. Blades used – Muhle & Kai
B&R Adjustable: Range of settings (1) – (8).
B&R is a joint production of two razor manufacturing icons Barbaros and Rocnel. Machined completely from stainless steel, this razor was manufactured in Turkey in 2016. It is a three piece razor with an exceptional highly polished head and has grippy knurling on the large solid handle; no machining marks are visible. The razor‘s adjustability works on the simple theory of applying variable pressure via a screwing action on a spring loaded base plate. I have been advised that work on these razors is suspended and it is not know if production can/ will be started again.
Without a blade fitted the mechanism gives a totally different feel compared to when a blade is in position. With a blade fitted the mechanism screws down firmly and lines up on the (1) mark. The head has no alignment marks so it is possible to assemble the razor with the alignment mark being one half turn out (adjustment will be set at (5) mark). As is becoming my usual practice now I started out on the mid setting of (4) but soon changed to (3) for the first shave. All other shaves were completed on setting (2). The quality of the shave from the B&R is right there with the closest and best shaves I have ever had especially with the Astra Green blade. This razor certainly let you know that any lapses of your concentration would result in blood loss. Not the best razor for those starting out in wet shaving or for those who prefer a mild shave. Blades used – Astra Green & Feather
Merkur Solingen Futur: Range of settings (1) – (6).
With the Merkur Futur having been on the market for many years and still being in produced in Germany I started this review with high expectations. The Futur is another hefty two piece razor with a unique clip system used to secure the blade and cap in place; after experiencing the clip head I liked the security offered and the ease of changing a blade. With the Futur the varying gap is clearly identifiable as the adjuster is moved. My Future has the brushed finish. I commenced shaving on setting (3) and because it felt right did not go exploring the settings. For quality of shave this razor scores top marks and is very confidence inspiring in use. However, the styling can only be described as bland; large in size, no external markings and even the adjustment numbers are difficult to read. Again, of German manufacture and the more you use the razor the better it feels. The head is long and large; at times the noticeably larger head interfered with the shave. Blades used – Merkur & Polsilver
Parker Variant: Range of settings (1) – (5).
My Variant is one of the latest production so should be free of the head alignment issues affecting some of the earlier production razors. However, before using it I made sure the blade was aligned and evenly spaced in the head; it was, so no issues there. Everything on the razor fitted together perfectly and with the graphite handle it is certainly a nice looking razor. The head while large is not cumbersome and the handle provided a good grip at all times. This three piece razor uses varying pressure on the spring loaded base plate for the adjustment. My razor was manufactured in India; that is the only information displayed on the razor other than the alignment marks.
I started my shave on setting (3) and did not need to make any adjustments. This razor feels secure in the hand and I always felt comfortable while using the razor, very comforting. The quality of the shave is very good but I felt it should have produced a closer shave. Blades used – Gillette Silver Blue & Kai
Gillette Fatboy: Range of settings (1) – (9).
1960 F4. Another Gillette twist to open design that is well known to many. My example was damaged in transit and apart from destroying its plastic case also bent one of the end plates. I straightened the plate back and everything functions now as it should. The nickel plating is in good condition and the black numbers on the adjuster plus the red alignment dot all clearly visible. The Fatboy is a well balanced razor that feels very comfortable in the hand. I could not help but like this razor, confidence inspiring and everything about it feeling just right. Shaving was commenced using setting (5), I tried (6) but went back to (5) for the remainder of the test. I was rewarded with comfortable and very close shaves. Blades used – Sputnik & Gillette Rubie
Detroit Grooming Alpha: Range of settings - Guess
This razor arrived after I started this adjustable test and I have already done a review on the Detroit so a lot of what is written here is a recap. Procurement of this razor was solely due to my interest in machined razors. The Detroit is a hugh piece of metal that is way in excess of what could be described as a normal size razor. The handle alone is 90mm long and 20mm in diameter and the entire razor is machined from stainless steel. The Alpha is a simple three piece design with adjustability being determined by the pressure applied to the blade by the cap around the plate as the handle is screwed down; no springs are used in this design. Apart from the Detroit emblem engraved large and proud on the cap there are no other markings on the razor, not even an alignment marking. A used blade was fitted, the handle screwed down firmly and the 12 O’clock positioned marked. I then filed a mark on the end of the handle giving me reference mark while I used an imaginary clock face for position. A useable range between 4 O’clock and 12 O’clock is available. There is a lot of pressure required to screw the handle down firmly and this is made more difficult by the 1 mm exposed blade on each end of the head making the grip difficult. I used a towel to grip the blunt ends of the blade so it did not spin between my finger and thumb as the handle is screwed down.
From the initial review I knew the sweet spot for me was 7 O’clock so there was no need to explore further. I had never used a Lord blade before but put one in to test the Detroit. From the first stroke with the Lord Cool blade fitted I knew the razor was not performing. I tried unsuccessfully to dial out the problem but to no avail. Bloody terrible shave. The second shave with the Lord fitted was marginally better but still well below par. Fitting the Kai blade improved the razor back to what I knew the Detroit would produce; an average shave.
Don’t ask me why, but for me the sheer mass of this razor seems to disappear while it is being used. Another interesting observation here is heat transfer, something I have never experienced to such an extent before and it must be due to the extra mass of the razor. The Detroit retains the heat of the hot water enough to be noticeable when the razor initially touches the face. It was not enough to burn but you can certainly feel the heat. There’s not a lot going for the poor old Detroit: it’s heavy, it’s awkward, it’s large, it’s cumbersome; it’s a safety hazard, you have to work to get an average shave, but and it’s a big but! Its sheer size means it has presence and the Detroit is the only razor I have used or seen that has a personality. It challenges you ‘Come on big boy, I challenge you to use me and when you do you’ll have to work hard to get an average shave”. By comparison most razors of any manufacturer become bland; put a blade in and shave; it may be a great shave, it may be the worst shave ever but there’s little challenge. I’m a glutton for punishment; I’ll take up the challenge. Blades used Lord Cool & Kai
PS. I have since used a Lord Cool blade in my Charcoal Goods brass #2 and it worked a treat, on par with an Astra Green. I was thinking I should have used the ‘bad blade’ in a known razor but if did not work there I would have thrown all the Lord blades out.
Continued
