Basic Tools for Re-scaling SRs

rbscebu

rbscebu

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2020
Location
Atherton Tablelands, Queensland, Australia
Here is a list of the basic tools you will need to re-scale a straight razor:
​
Fret (preferred) or coping saw​
Pencil​
Double-sided tape (thin)​
Pin vice​
∅1.6mm (1/16”) drill bit​
Flush cutter (suitable for ∅1.6mm brass rod)​
Ball pein hammer (50g preferred)​
About a 60mm bench vice (optional) with plastic/rubber jaws​
Sandpaper (about 80, 220 and 300 grit)​
​
That is all. Of course there are other tools that may be of assistance, however they are not a basic requirement.

After two or three goes at re-scaling, you should be producing quite acceptable results.

For materials, you will need:
​
Scale blanks (your choice of material)​
∅1.6mm pinning rod (brass or nickel alloy)​
Suitable collars/washers​
​
Any questions, just ask here.
 
was going to get a pin vice and coping saw plus some flush cutters, which would set me back around $60 but then thought why not get this Ryobi rotary tool



would already spend $60 so really only another $90 out of pocket and I get automated drilling and cutting, and this tool and its benefits for life.. just in the process of justifying the purchase or going cheap
 
StratMan said:
was going to get a pin vice and coping saw plus some flush cutters, which would set me back around $60 but then thought why not get this Ryobi rotary tool



would already spend $60 so really only another $90 out of pocket and I get automated drilling and cutting, and this tool and its benefits for life.. just in the process of justifying the purchase or going cheap
Click to expand...
Good luck. I have a Demel and associated press but I do not use either when making/fitting scales.
 
StratMan said:
was going to get a pin vice and coping saw plus some flush cutters, which would set me back around $60 but then thought why not get this Ryobi rotary tool



would already spend $60 so really only another $90 out of pocket and I get automated drilling and cutting, and this tool and its benefits for life.. just in the process of justifying the purchase or going cheap
Click to expand...
Lolz - the amount of times I’ve used that logic to justify a purchase….

This all adds up to X, so it’s only gonna cost me Y.

😍
 
Well, of all the electric tools I could think of for re-scaling, a rotary tool is the last one.

I use my Dremel extenively for restoring, but not for rescaling. Small table saw, absolutely. Small vertical saw, most definitely. I have what they seem to call a decouping saw, made by Proxxon, model 230/S, it can work very nicely.
A Dremel like tool? That one I see more suitable for other tasks.
 
I like the Dremel for drilling extremely fine holes in jewellery and small sanding or grinding jobs. (I took up jewellery making when the arthritis made continuing with blacksmithing untenable.) I used to go old school, using a little hand drill like this...
s-l400.jpg
... but the Dremel is a much more versatile tool.
 
Mastropiero said:
Well, of all the electric tools I could think of for re-scaling, a rotary tool is the last one.

I use my Dremel extenively for restoring, but not for rescaling. Small table saw, absolutely. Small vertical saw, most definitely. I have what they seem to call a decouping saw, made by Proxxon, model 230/S, it can work very nicely.
A Dremel like tool? That one I see more suitable for other tasks.
Click to expand...
The Dremel workstation is fantastic for these small jobs. With sanding and polishing drums it’s excellent. Also handy as a drill press. Necessary … nope but it has saved me a lot of hassle for a small outlay, especially if you already have a dremel.
 
Fair enough, however, I only use it for drilling the pin holes.

I would never polish or sand scales with it, I used to, but, for me, small contact surface + high speeds is a recipe for "biting" into the scale. Voice of experience speaking here.


Ever since I learned the lesson, I sand the scales using W/D and then, for polishing, I use 1" wide, 100mm diameter cotton, or other material made discs, atached to my power drill, which, in turn, is clamped in a huge ass vice. I can set it at non-dangerous speeds, it works very well for me, and it's a way more uniform and constant way of polishing than the Dremel.
 
agree with the majority of this list
and would add take the sanding up to at least 1500 grit especially with plastics & soft materials, use decent quality Wet & Dry sand paper in increments of about double the last grit i.e. 80, 160, 320/400, 800, 1200/1500, 2000, 4000 the wet & dry tends to not shed grit into your work
I also never use a rotary tool for basic scale making unless doing inlays or carving etc

basic works
Cut out with fret, or hack saw - the cleaner to cut the less filing required
if you use horn or bone give it a good soak in Neatsfoot oil either before starting or after cutting out rough profile to minimise waste
if the horn distorts when soaked, heat with a heat gun or but in a bag sealed then into hot water, when hot place between 2 flat clean surfaces with a decent weight until cooled and should be right if not repeat with a bit more heat
Flatt sand inside on scales and sand to high grit
Stick scales back to back with double sided thin tape or use masking tape on the insides with a very small amount of super glue
profile scales shape with files - rasps to bastards etc
drill pins holes before you add any radius to scales
final shape radius etc scales with files - rasp to bastard - scrapers can work here also depending on materials
then onto sandpaper - use hard backings for profiling, files, pipes wood etc
split scales clean up insides of residue
buff & polish - possible rotary tool use, or if high grit sanded hand polish with cloth and polish, plastic polishes work well as final polish on horn, bone, plastics, G10, Stabilised or CA coated woods.

make your wedge
lead is the easiest to work, large sinkers work well
hammer to a tapper cut to shape,
flatten faces and refine angle on a file - target an angle to get about 2-3 times wider than the spine thickness at the pivot
test fit
clean edges and refine shape as required
pin to scales

note when making wedges from smaller pieces of materials
use the double sided tape to stick your material to a pop stick or similar to item to make filing or grinding your wedge easier to hold
 
Mastropiero said:
Fair enough, however, I only use it for drilling the pin holes.

I would never polish or sand scales with it, I used to, but, for me, small contact surface + high speeds is a recipe for "biting" into the scale. Voice of experience speaking here.


Ever since I learned the lesson, I sand the scales using W/D and then, for polishing, I use 1" wide, 100mm diameter cotton, or other material made discs, atached to my power drill, which, in turn, is clamped in a huge ass vice. I can set it at non-dangerous speeds, it works very well for me, and it's a way more uniform and constant way of polishing than the Dremel.
Click to expand...
I have also used it a fair amount on old brush restoration and with the wire/nylon brush attachments for the jimps on those razors that have them. I just run the dremel at a lower speed. The drums were really handy cleaning out the inside of the old brush knots and much more stable using the cutting attachment on the dremel stand to cut out the old knots.
 
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