Is a sharper blade compensating for a less aggressive razor?

SnowedAway

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Joined
Dec 19, 2017
Location
Melbourne
I use a muhle r89 which I bought off here and it's fantastic, and I've tried a few different blades by now but I like how the Feathers take away a lot of the growth so quickly and easily (but I sometimes nick myself with those though :/). I do feel a bit apprehensive using feathers on the daily but I do like the fact that it shaves even a week's growth so bloody easily.

I was wondering what effect a more aggressive razor would have on my shave? And also, could another razor change the blades I prefer on my face?
 
That's a big one...but generally speaking the effictiveness and aggression of a shave yields from the combination of razor and blade (as well as technique of course ie angle & pressure)

So in your example you found the level of effectiveness in your setup you are after, but it is too aggressive for you and you want it to be milder/smoother.

Welcome to the rabit holes of RAD and RBAD :D:D:D
 
And also, could another razor change the blades I prefer on my face?

Absolutely. As I bent @Mark1966's ear about at the CBR meetup last Saturday, a blade can make a MASSIVE difference to a razor. I have always been a Personna Red IP man (usually with a Futur, Slanthammer, or Yaqi DOC), but when I got the DE from Standard Razors, I was really unimpressed at how mild the razor is.
Since I tried it with a Feather, though, I'm getting the most comfortable shaves of my life. Can shave daily with it, getting no nicks or irritation. I would never use a Feather in my more aggressive razors, but this Standard is perfect with a sharp blade in it.
 
alfredus is spot on, shaving is a very subjective experience. Personally my go to blades are Feathers or Astra superior platinum. I find the Astra's a little more comfortable for daily shaving.
Another thing to consider is a quality shaving soap. In my humble opinion a good soap provides better lubrication and less irritation on the skin.

Good luck. :giggle:
 
yep all good info above.. for me in the edwin jagger DE 89 (same head as you muhle89) i also use a feather and nothing else. But with my rockwell on plate 5 (reasonably aggressive/efficient) i will use a persona platinum chrome, which is nearly as sharp as the feather but smoother
 
Personna Reds (Platinum Chrome is just the Euro packaging, plastic dispenser in 10's instead of a cardboard box in 5's) are not 'sharp', but they work well in more aggressive razors with greater blade exposure. I love the smoothness of them but don't have any really aggressive razors. A slim on 9 is about as aggressive as I have.

It's all about the combination of blades with the razor, and as @tullfan says, a mild razor tames a sharp blade. A 'sharp' blade we are talking Silver Blues/PermaSharp Supers, Feathers, and vintage blades. There is really not much produced today that you can truly call sharp once you have experienced some of the Vintage blades. Old Wilkies, Spoilers and Personna Super Stainless Electra-Chrome are all far sharper than Feathers by a long way, and last much longer too.

@alfredus is right - the biggest variable is going to be your own technique. Angle and pressure are far more important in overall experience than the blade and razor combo, but it still has an impact.

Agressive razors will just expose more blade and it means that you can get sloppier with your angle. Less blade exposure (milder) means you need to be more precise with angle. I also find that milder razors tend to get better life out of blades as you are not scraping the edge across your face and wearing the edge. Lets face it, your skin is just leather when it is still on the cow. The handle needs to be about 23 degrees from perpendicular to planet face during the razor's orbit.
 
Personna Reds (Platinum Chrome is just the Euro packaging, plastic dispenser in 10's instead of a cardboard box in 5's) are not 'sharp', but they work well in more aggressive razors with greater blade exposure. I love the smoothness of them but don't have any really aggressive razors. A slim on 9 is about as aggressive as I have.

It's all about the combination of blades with the razor, and as @tullfan says, a mild razor tames a sharp blade. A 'sharp' blade we are talking Silver Blues/PermaSharp Supers, Feathers, and vintage blades. There is really not much produced today that you can truly call sharp once you have experienced some of the Vintage blades. Old Wilkies, Spoilers and Personna Super Stainless Electra-Chrome are all far sharper than Feathers by a long way, and last much longer too.

@alfredus is right - the biggest variable is going to be your own technique. Angle and pressure are far more important in overall experience than the blade and razor combo, but it still has an impact.

Agressive razors will just expose more blade and it means that you can get sloppier with your angle. Less blade exposure (milder) means you need to be more precise with angle. I also find that milder razors tend to get better life out of blades as you are not scraping the edge across your face and wearing the edge. Lets face it, your skin is just leather when it is still on the cow. The handle needs to be about 23 degrees from perpendicular to planet face during the razor's orbit.


WOW!!! feathers are not classed as sharp compared to vintage?? far out.. i would of loved to of shaven with these, any idea where you can get them?
 
WOW!!! feathers are not classed as sharp compared to vintage?? far out.. i would of loved to of shaven with these, any idea where you can get them?
No, feathers are a bit sharper than normal. I find Silver Blues sharper because they lull you into a false sense of security with that familiar Gillette style hone and bam... claret is flowing. Feathers I am generally paying attention at all times.

Just have to look on eBay. I am quite shocked at the lack of Vintage Blades online now, glad I picked up what I did. Suggest that you strike quickly when you see them because all the goo dstuff is pretty much gone. If you are unsure PM me.

These are good, 2nd best blade Gillette made: https://www.ebay.com/itm/blister-pa...ble-Edge-safety-Razor-Blades-USA/352176238199

If these are the same, then they should be as good, although packaging is unknown to me (spanish/portuguese/south america?): https://www.ebay.com/itm/36-Gillett...lus-Safety-Refills-Classic-Style/222931162009
(don't get Global shipping, get them sent to MyMallBox for cheaper: https://www.mymallbox.com/referrals/signupwith/B7268 )

Spoilers/SuperStainless - essentially the same. Always good. Getting expensive now: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-69-the-S...illette-double-edge-razor-Blades/263918238875

Gillette Silvers (Super Silvers precursor): https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Gillett...e-New-Old-Stock-NOS-Razor-Blades/273476435124
Pay no more than USD$1 per blade. Offer him under USD$1 per blade on the 150 he has left (15 packs of 10). I would go for $135 total and see what he does. Would happily swap you some packs for various other vintage blades for these.

Any older Wilkinson Sword are worthwhile. Best are the English-manufactured. You want quantity to offset postage costs though. Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-NOS-Wilkinson-Sword-5-blades-Pack-Double-Edge/113327113943

P74's are the holy grail. Considered some of the sharpest and longest-lasting blades. Price is about right - you will not find much cheaper as they nearly bankrupted Personna because they were so good nobody bought replacements! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Personna-74-Tungsten-double-edge-Razor-Blades-10/142993535176
 
Mu current regime is an Ikon 102 with a Feather for the first pass WTG. Then I switch to a Rockwell 6C ('3' plate) with a Gillette Platinum for the 2nd pass XTG followed by third pass ATG (except just under the chin where the Ikon gets another go). The Ikon with a Feather for the first pass makes the following passes easier, smoother and quicker, for me anyway. I also have a Muhle R89 which I sometimes use instead of the Rockwell 6C.
 
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Mu current regime is an Ikon 102 with a Feather for the first pass WTG. Then I switch to a Rockwell 6C ('3' plate) with a Gillette Platinum for the 2nd pass XTG followed by third pass ATG (except just under the chin where the Ikon gets another go). The Ikon with a Feather for the first pass makes the following passes easier, smoother and quicker, for me anyway. I also have a Muhle R89 which I sometimes use instead of the Rockwell 6C.

try the rockwell 6C on plate 6 with a feather :) effortlessly mowes down a two day growth
 
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