Muhle R95 Rocca Birch Bark Appreciation Thread

I wrote to Muhle yesterday about the Birch bark handle construction.
Nice quick reply this morning...

"...many thanks for your message. The birch bark handle is made of single rings of birch bark layered on an aluminum tube. I can confirm that the birch bark is a long lasting material. The material itself is very light and the heat isolating capacity of birch bark is correspondingly high, even when wet. Therefore compared to other natural materials, the birch bark is extremely stable, especially when exposed to moisture: no swelling or shrinkage.

To keep the colour of the handle we recommend to oil it from time to time".

So there you have it straight from Muhle.
Your thanks and praises are welcome (and encouraged).
Oh yeah, nearly forgot...my R95 is on the way to me now.
 
Blackie said:
I wrote to Muhle yesterday about the Birch bark handle construction.
Nice quick reply this morning...

"...many thanks for your message. The birch bark handle is made of single rings of birch bark layered on an aluminum tube. I can confirm that the birch bark is a long lasting material. The material itself is very light and the heat isolating capacity of birch bark is correspondingly high, even when wet. Therefore compared to other natural materials, the birch bark is extremely stable, especially when exposed to moisture: no swelling or shrinkage.

To keep the colour of the handle we recommend to oil it from time to time".

So there you have it straight from Muhle.
Your thanks and praises are welcome (and encouraged).
Oh yeah, nearly forgot...my R95 is on the way to me now.
Click to expand...

Thanks mate - that is actually really awesome to know!

Maybe I need to get a V4 birch bark now? I mean my V3 is fine, but V4 would be better right? :)
 
Blackie said:
I wrote to Muhle yesterday about the Birch bark handle construction.
Nice quick reply this morning...

"...many thanks for your message. The birch bark handle is made of single rings of birch bark layered on an aluminum tube. I can confirm that the birch bark is a long lasting material. The material itself is very light and the heat isolating capacity of birch bark is correspondingly high, even when wet. Therefore compared to other natural materials, the birch bark is extremely stable, especially when exposed to moisture: no swelling or shrinkage.

To keep the colour of the handle we recommend to oil it from time to time".

So there you have it straight from Muhle.
Your thanks and praises are welcome (and encouraged).
Oh yeah, nearly forgot...my R95 is on the way to me now.
Click to expand...

They use birch bark on canoes over here! ...mine has over several hundred shaves with no ill effects yet; that said I doubt it will have the durability of stainless steel but SS handles are two a penny, the R95 is fairly unique and oh so tactile...the R95 is the one to have :)
 
rhodes96 said:
Yes next level of efficiency and smoothness.
Click to expand...

Agree 100%!

I always found the GC .84P that next level up from the Rockwell 6S R6 plate with best results received when paired with a Nacet.

Having a thicker growth I never managed to get as close a shave and reading that the Rocca shaved between the R89-R41 I was skeptical.

Having tried it with a Wizamet SI blade I was blown away with how smooth it shaves with the closeness of the R41 plus built to last!

If you enjoy the GC .84P then no need to upgrade as it performs but if you seek the R41 efficiency then try the Rocca as its just as close but minus the harsh blade feel. (y)

Plus you don't need to use a Nacet/Feather to achieve BBS shaves as was the case for me with the GC .84P. :(
 
I emailed Muhle again, and asked what is the 'oil' they recommend to use on the Birch bark handle.
They replied..."You can use cooking oil such as Olive oil or maintenance oil such as Ballistol".
I think that Ballistol would be better than Olive oil.
So, there you have it...all you need to know to keep your R95 in tip-top condition.
Ballistol oil is here (if in NZ)...You Aussie folks might get it at Bunnings?

https://www.guncity.com/ballistol-oil-aerosol-200ml-231454
 
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Blackie said:
I emailed Muhle again, and asked what is the 'oil' they recommend to use on the Birch bark handle.
They replied..."You can use cooking oil such as Olive oil or maintenance oil such as Ballistol".
I think that Ballistol would be better than Olive oil.
So, there you have it...all you need to know to keep your R95 in tip-top condition.
Ballistol oil is here (if in NZ)...You Aussie folks might get it at Bunnings?

https://www.guncity.com/ballistol-oil-aerosol-200ml-231454
Click to expand...

Sounds like the same method for wooden spoons and using vegetable oil.:)

Wood turning professionals care to chime in ?
 
Blackie said:
I emailed Muhle again, and asked what is the 'oil' they recommend to use on the Birch bark handle.
They replied..."You can use cooking oil such as Olive oil or maintenance oil such as Ballistol".
I think that Ballistol would be better than Olive oil.
So, there you have it...all you need to know to keep your R95 in tip-top condition.
Ballistol oil is here (if in NZ)...You Aussie folks might get it at Bunnings?

https://www.guncity.com/ballistol-oil-aerosol-200ml-231454
Click to expand...
Ballistol has quite a pronounced kerosene-ish smell, which tends to linger.

Personally I would adopt the same approach I gave all my blacksmithing hammers. After spending all that time forging, hardening and tempering the head, shaping the (always) hickory handle and making a good wedge that will stay put forever, you want the handle to last. So you soak it in pale boiled linseed oil for several days, then wipe off and leave it to dry in the sun for several more. This treatment results in a handle that will NEVER break, and is impervious to water.

I reckon it would work just fine on birch bark, and it doesn't stink.
 
Holiday said:
Hi all Rocca enablers, (you know who you are) what about under the jawline and in those hard to reach places? Does the Rocca require buffing?
Click to expand...
I think the buffing requirement depends on your skin. I ALWAYS have to buff ATG under the jawline and where my antennae would go if I were a Martian. If I had to buff with my R41, I guess I can live with that when I finally get a Rocca.

Some 20 or so years ago, before I started shaving my head, I tried using straight razors in the hope that would eliminate buffing under the jaw, but no dice.
 
Holiday said:
Hi all Rocca enablers, (you know who you are) what about under the jawline and in those hard to reach places? Does the Rocca require buffing?
Click to expand...

Under the jawline not a problem, the hardest place for me is Adam’s apple, my best and most mild feeling shave in that area is with the rocca

Just my usual trad 3 pass shave W, X, A is mild + smooth bbs

Bit of buffing can get you close to r41, and with good lather it’s a nonissue, but no need to go that hard
 
Gargravarr said:
Ballistol has quite a pronounced kerosene-ish smell, which tends to linger.

Personally I would adopt the same approach I gave all my blacksmithing hammers. After spending all that time forging, hardening and tempering the head, shaping the (always) hickory handle and making a good wedge that will stay put forever, you want the handle to last. So you soak it in pale boiled linseed oil for several days, then wipe off and leave it to dry in the sun for several more. This treatment results in a handle that will NEVER break, and is impervious to water.

I reckon it would work just fine on birch bark, and it doesn't stink.
Click to expand...


Nice info thanks.. and how about rosewood and ebony instrument necks?

What oil and how would u use it?
 
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