Pb Calendula/Chamomile

Pbgoose

Active Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2017
Location
Dubbo
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Wanted to play with Calendula so I did an infusion of Calendula into olive oil and used the olive in the soap base. This base is a non tallow base and came up a fairly soft paste with a slightly powdery texture. Lathers easily and feels good on the face. Good dose of bentonite and silk so doesn't lack slickness or protection.
Downside is scent profile is not quite right yet, I included a touch of neroli but not being a fan of neroli will reduce the neroli input so it's more subtle in the next version. Will probably boost the bottom end as well whilst trying to keep chamomile prominent in the profile. May even do V2 with no clay.
Ingredients: Stearic, Calendula infused Olive oil, Mango seed butter, Coconut oil, Castor Oil, Shea butter, Bentonite, Tussah silk, Glycerine, KOH, NaOH, Filtered Water (RO), Essential oils, and a touch of yellow mica just for fun.
Essential Oils: Roman Chamomile, Geranium, Neroli, Patchouli, Lavender, Black pepper.
 
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I seem to be making a habit of 3 iterations to get a soap to where I want it at present. I did a Mk II of Calendula/Chamomile basically just to tweak the scent. Pretty happy with where that's at but inadvertently changed the base by forgetting to add the calendula infused olive oil so had to add the additional oil (because that's the point of the soap) and recalculate everything else. Didn't have time to recalculate and add the other base oils so this base ended up olive oil heavy. Also added some beta carotene for some colour.
The base ended up more of a cream consistency and takes a bit of work to lather. The lather is a different animal to what I've played with before. Takes heaps of water despite being tallow free, appears to have stability issues early on but when developed properly the lather is almost a buttery cream.
Was quite nice to shave with but that's all pretty much irrelevant as there will be a Mk III to confirm the base/scent configuration.
 
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Just about cooked myself yesterday. Not a good idea playing with picks and shovels in this heat except for the side benefit of weight loss if you don't die of heat stroke. So today I decided to play it cool, stay inside and redo Calendula/Chamomile.
Calendula/Chamomile is a mouthful so MkIII is just going to be called Calendula.
MkI and II were both very soft soaps so changed the KOH/NaOH ratio and also introduced tallow. Certainly a much firmer soap now but not as creamy as it's predecessors.
Scent is the same as MkII. Knocked back the Beta Carotene so the soap isn't as yellow. May change the clay to Kaolin so it doesn't influence the colour as much.
I'd like to say I'm done with this project but I'll play around with the 3 iterations and work out if it needs any further work but I don't think any change will be significant now, unless I decide to go back to the original base of MkI.




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