Burl brushes

Rami

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One of my other hobbies involves cooking and a "small" set of custom kitchen knives [emoji16]. What I have noticed is that there is quite a bit of use of stabilised (and dyed) burl as knife handles. And got wondering why they are not used as much in brush handles. am I missing something here?

Ps. Post photos of you happen to have a burl handled brush. I think they would be cool looking.
 
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I have a brush with a burl handle. Not hugely popular I would admit but you will find them around. Maybe because they require extra treatment over "plastic" handles.
 
Maybe because they require extra treatment over "plastic" handles.

Not sure about that. Stabilised burl handles are used in kitchen knives quite often and they are robust enough to take banging on a board and the hot water /steam of a kitchen. All you need is some mineral oils every now and again.
 
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Not sure about that. Stabilised burl handles are used in kitchen knives quite often and they are robust enough to take banging on a board and the hot water /steam of a kitchen. All you need is some mineral oils every now and again.
@Tony Forsyth can do and has done some stabilised wood handles. The master caster in Perth has done some impressive stuff with them previously from what I've seen.
 
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Master caster in Perth?

Also photos people! [emoji35]
 
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Not sure about that. Stabilised burl handles are used in kitchen knives quite often and they are robust enough to take banging on a board and the hot water /steam of a kitchen. All you need is some mineral oils every now and again.

Sure, but a plastic handle is simply turned and polished. A burl (or any timber) needs to be sealed too. Not a big deal, just an extra step is all. Timber, including burl is common for use as straight razor scales. I have made some myself. Sealed with CA glue (super glue).
 
Couple of quick shots I found whilst at work of knife scales the bloke in Perth has done (and could do for a handle maybe).

burl%20cast.jpg

red%20elm.jpg
 
A few things:
- When you say "burl" you could mean literally any timber, although eucalypts are most prone to them. Timbers vary considerably with their degree of natural waterproofing.
- While timber boats live for many years in salt water relatively happily, if fresh water collects anywhere, they usually rot in pretty short order.
- A burl is likely the result of some bacteria or fungi getting into the timber - this creates weak spaces / air gaps etc that are unpredictable and can get water logged / split a lot easier than the original timber. A trade off for the attractiveness of the variable grain.
- Brushes which get used regularly stay wet a lot longer than a kitchen knife. Normal timber brushes require a good epoxy glue and other waterproofing / sealants to prevent water ingress and bacteria etc growth. Water is the enemy of wood - and transparent sealants of all kinds degrade over time, particularly if regularly exposed to UV. Once degraded, they start letting in water. Unless you keep applying mineral oils of course but not many consumers keep up with that and the joint between knot and handle remains tricky to seal as the wood expands and contracts and the original epoxy ages, again particularly with UV exposure.
- Having said all that, there are some pics of Huon Pine handles on Tony's website. If I was going to source a timber handle, this would be my choice - it's pretty much the most stable and water resistant timber in the world. And it smells fantastic - someone should make a shaving scent out of that smell! The natural oils in the timber would likely seal it longer and better than anything we could add.

Having said all that, plastic handles degrade with UV too - nothing lasts forever! If you like the look, go for your life!
 
My apologies - I didn't see the clear reference to stabilised wood in the OP...! Of course stabilised wood is a lot better than conventional timber for this purpose. Good to see Tony is using it. I'm not sure it would be necessary for his Huon pine examples though - I would be interested to know whether he thinks there is any improvement there. It still degrades (like transparent resin does by yellowing etc) but over a much longer time period and you can sand the degradation off yourself. Water ingress and splits are generally much improved as you have effectively turned wood into plastic.
 
That looks like a rasin/timber mix. Same as @Korbz had. The pattern in the left side does not match the right side. I think they just immersed a piece of burl into the resin to achieve that effect. Ie it's intentional.
 
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That looks like a rasin/timber mix. Same as @Korbz had. The pattern in the left side does not match the right side. I think they just immersed a piece of burl into the resin to achieve that effect. Ie it's intentional.

Correct. It is a way to use the otherwise wasted parts of a burl. They can be had in a full piece of timber too though, no resin.
 
Ah, sorry @Sxot I misread your comment. Yea, the stabilisation need to be good enough to penetrate, some of the home brew setup is not strong enough.
( not enough pressure)

The brush is looking great by the way. Keep them coming
 
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Guy's
Yes I can turn timber and burl handles as well as what we call Hybrids which are a mix of timber/burl and resins. Water is not an issue if the timber is stabalised. I have both vacuum and pressure vessels for working with these materials. Once a timber/burl is stabalised it becomes just like resin but keeps its timber looks. It is inhert to water absorption if the stabalising is done properly.
Any questions or if anybody is interested in this type of material for handles let me know and I will see what I can do.
Cheers
Tony
 
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