Defying conventional wisdom

Trapezoid

Member
Joined
May 28, 2019
Location
Perth, Western Australia
Hello

The repeated dogma of the wet shaving community as I've seen it is as follows:

3 passes. WTG, XTG, ATG.

Your razor, brush and soap choices are up to you but the above methodology is the one that is promoted and universally recognised.

I seek to contest that.

Today (31/05/2020) I started with a 3 day beard growth and went straight into a south to north ATG pass. To my surprise I was delighted with this. It was so close to being in a state I could be happy with I almost stopped. I would go so far as to say if I only had time for a single pass I would have accepted it for what it is. However I had the time and I like it smooth. Went with a second pass south to north ATG pass. As always I had to buff my resistant areas and I was BBS.

I’ve been doing this for 2 weeks now and have cemented the methodology for myself. I am not going back to a traditional 3 pass shave. Not only is there no need the amount of irritation and redness I get for going twice ATG is less. So I’ve saved time and have increased the quality of my shave.

As with everything YMMV but I do suggest you give it a go.
 
Well @Trapezoid I'm really glad that you have found what works for you - and I'd encourage others to do the same!

I think that beard mapping helps in doing that BTW, knowing the direction of growth for your beard.

Personally I cannot recall the last 3 pass shave I did. My routine is North -> South, then the reverse, then an East -> West and back at the jawline.

The North -> South and reverse are each a combination of with/against the grain across different parts of my face.
 
The three pass conventional technique is a sensible starting point for beginners, but once you know what you’re doing I suspect most people have tinkered and developed their own formula. I can’t remember my last three pass shave either. Two is enough for a DFS as follows:

1. North - South WTG
2. South - North ATG everywhere except my chin, where I do XTG West-East on one half and East-West on the other.
 
Depends on the beard growth.
If it's soft enough, then directions matter less.

If I go straight into even across the grain, I'll get irritation and in growns. I must remove the bulk with the grain and then across and against (+ touch ups).
 
I've done it quite a lot. With the right razor / blade combo it works OK in the short term but the results, in terms of BBS and low irritation, are not the same for me in the long term. I generally end up going back to the easy N-S, S-N routine with my aggressive razors, or a 3 pass WTG/XTG/ATG with the milder razors for a BBS with less irritation. Love my BBS...
 
Doesn't work for me either...
 
My shillings worth. From experience pet grooming esp. horses and dogs I was always taught to go with the grain and have carried this over to shaving technique.
I would go 3 passes WTG before attempting ATG. If I do not get DFS after WTG/XTG the razor and blade combo are not efficient enough.
Admittedly I do not have as thick or coarse stubble as other members that have to go ATG :watching: @astinus4
 
I can get a BBS with two passes on 1-2 days growth if I use a very sharp blade (e.g. Bic Chrome Platinum) and:
  • My first pass WTG is with a slant such as Ikon 102; and
  • My second pass ATG is with a mild razor such as Rockwell 6C on R2 or R3.
With the above combo my shave is irritation and nick free. BTW, I don't change blades, I have a blade in each razor.
 
I'd say really depends on a razor (sure no one expected YMMV statement?).

Recently acquired YAQI Grill, which is ridiculously aggressive, surprised me with the ability to get almost into BBS with a single pass ATG. It also shaves much smoothly ATG for whatever reason.
 
I have attempted to change the traditional WTG, XTG and ATG passes into many things, even straight ATG.. never really worked out and i always get the best shave and post feel results from doing all three in the said order
 
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