Detroit Grooming Alpha Adjustable Review

Errol

Razor Review Guru
Joined
Apr 29, 2017
Location
Nhulunbuy
If I was not especially interested in machined razors, I would not have purchased this razor. It is one razor that did not jump up and say ‘buy me’ but I did. I think the manufacturers got the model designation wrong, instead of calling it the ‘Alpha’ it should have been called the ‘Anchor’. It is big enough and heavy enough to hold the ocean liner QE2 firm in a six metre swell. The handle alone is 90mm long and 20mm in dia. The Alpha is a three piece razor manufactured from stainless steel and finished to a machined finish but it is adjustable. Adjustability on the Alpha is determined by the curvature applied to the blade by the cap around the base when the handle is screwed down. Simple enough but the interesting thing here is that the Alpha is devoid of any reference marks. I am now in unchartered territory but after some head scratching I came up with a way I thought might work. I would put a blade in the razor and screw the handle down firmly. At the 12 o’clock (centre top) mark the position and put a file ‘V’ notch on the end of the handle. With a reference point established I can now work out via an imaginary clock face the amount of pressure on the blade. First problem; it takes considerable pressure to screw the handle down firmly and this is not helped by the second problem. There is about 1mm blade exposure on each end of the head; so gloves, or as I did, used the towel to protect my fingers and thumb from being cut by the dull end of a razor blade. Third problem: while screwing the handle down, the thread bound up and became tight before being fully seated. Answer was to apply a drop of fishing reel oil on the thread. Done and a notch is filed in the handle.

This bastard had better give a good shave to compensate for the drama in getting this far. Mid aggression on most adjustables so far has been around the half turn of the adjuster (whatever that might be) so 6 o’clock is the position I would start at. I had done all my locating of my ‘V’ notch and all other preparatory work with a used Gillette Silver Blue blade. To use the razor I loaded a Kai blade and found that with any setting past 4 o’clock the pressure on the screw was insufficient to hold the head steady on the handle. Effective range of usage therefore 4 o’clock to 12 o’clock. Starting on 6 o’clock was just a little too aggressive for me; 7 o’clock was very nice. I’m pleased to advise that this razor provided a comfortable but very close shave. I’m impressed. I’ve said before and in fairness to the Alpha should repeat it again, ‘While using this razor I did not feel the extra weight of the razor’.

Displayed for all to see is the Detroit Grooming emblem on the flat face on the cap. The razor comes in a calico string draw bag but inside that is a custom leather pouch protecting the razor. I am not sure if Detroit sold this razor as a gimmick, a prototype or just to see how many they could con into buying the thing, but I’m happy to have given it a try. It will be used again.
 
Many thanks for the great review @Errol and for taking one for the team and ordering the razor in the first place (y)(y)(y)
 
Any chance for some photos champ?
 
No appropriately sized photos?

Mods plz delete thread.
 
In all seriousness, I’m keen to see it.
I tend to avoid the new stuff cause it hurts me to see nice things I can’t have
 
If I was not especially interested in machined razors, I would not have purchased this razor. It is one razor that did not jump up and say ‘buy me’ but I did. I think the manufacturers got the model designation wrong, instead of calling it the ‘Alpha’ it should have been called the ‘Anchor’. It is big enough and heavy enough to hold the ocean liner QE2 firm in a six metre swell. The handle alone is 90mm long and 20mm in dia. The Alpha is a three piece razor manufactured from stainless steel and finished to a machined finish but it is adjustable. Adjustability on the Alpha is determined by the curvature applied to the blade by the cap around the base when the handle is screwed down. Simple enough but the interesting thing here is that the Alpha is devoid of any reference marks. I am now in unchartered territory but after some head scratching I came up with a way I thought might work. I would put a blade in the razor and screw the handle down firmly. At the 12 o’clock (centre top) mark the position and put a file ‘V’ notch on the end of the handle. With a reference point established I can now work out via an imaginary clock face the amount of pressure on the blade. First problem; it takes considerable pressure to screw the handle down firmly and this is not helped by the second problem. There is about 1mm blade exposure on each end of the head; so gloves, or as I did, used the towel to protect my fingers and thumb from being cut by the dull end of a razor blade. Third problem: while screwing the handle down, the thread bound up and became tight before being fully seated. Answer was to apply a drop of fishing reel oil on the thread. Done and a notch is filed in the handle.

This bastard had better give a good shave to compensate for the drama in getting this far. Mid aggression on most adjustables so far has been around the half turn of the adjuster (whatever that might be) so 6 o’clock is the position I would start at. I had done all my locating of my ‘V’ notch and all other preparatory work with a used Gillette Silver Blue blade. To use the razor I loaded a Kai blade and found that with any setting past 4 o’clock the pressure on the screw was insufficient to hold the head steady on the handle. Effective range of usage therefore 4 o’clock to 12 o’clock. Starting on 6 o’clock was just a little too aggressive for me; 7 o’clock was very nice. I’m pleased to advise that this razor provided a comfortable but very close shave. I’m impressed. I’ve said before and in fairness to the Alpha should repeat it again, ‘While using this razor I did not feel the extra weight of the razor’.

Displayed for all to see is the Detroit Grooming emblem on the flat face on the cap. The razor comes in a calico string draw bag but inside that is a custom leather pouch protecting the razor. I am not sure if Detroit sold this razor as a gimmick, a prototype or just to see how many they could con into buying the thing, but I’m happy to have given it a try. It will be used again.
Great review @Errol !
The "adjustment" mechanism seems a bit random, I don't understand why they didn't put some reference markers on the razor as you did. Without it it would make it difficult to find the right setting again. Seems a bit of a stretch calling it an "adjustable" ??

The Merkur modification "Mergress-style" razor doesn't have "click" settings as the vintage Gillette's do (Slim/Fatboy etc) but still has useful markings on the adjuster knob so you can reproduce the shave after a blade change.

The blade overhang on the ends also seems to pose an issue.

I can resist this one! :)
 
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The more I think about this razor the more I think I'm missing something in the manufacturers intent in how the razor should operate and why no markings are engraved for the adjustment. There is just under 3/4 of a turn of adjustment from when the handle is firm enough not to slip to fully locked. Don't know, I like to know where I've been and where I'm going..
 
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