Hones of the day

Joined
Jun 1, 2017
Location
Dubbo
Jnats Hone set for the day
Replacing the factory edge on this Dovo in tortoiseshell with something more comfortable

https://i.imgur.com/Vy1DaQx.jpg

Super Stone 1K - Bevel Setting
Uchigomoru Suita - razor polishing
Shoubudani Asagi 8-12k - Finisher
Nakayama Asagi 12k plus -Finisher
Interested in why you use the natural stones instead of synthetics.
So far I’ve just used synthetics (Naniwa, Suehiro and Shapton) and have been happy with the edges I can get off those. I’d like try the naturals (when I slow down buying razors). Any suggestions where to start, seems a little mystical in some respects (ancient stones, very rare, no longer mined or if they are by some ancient Japanese gentleman who should of retired 4 decades ago but thankfully for us he still cares about quality stones) or is it simply personal preferences. If I get into naturals do I have to relearn technique? Can the naturals achieve the same grit levels in terms of polish?
 
Joined
Jun 18, 2016
Location
Gladstone, Queenslads, Australia
Nice razor, I really like the Dovos and plan on getting one later in the year.Approximately how long did it take to get it ready for shaving?
didn't time it mate, but I find this Jnat system pretty quick & its under an hour to fully hone a new Dovo blade, but I have only done 2 brand new Dovo's so far & both were pretty easy steels to use like most German steels they seam a bit harder, as they are not as soft as the old Sheffield steels to hone

did a new rebranded Chinese razor ( looked like a gold dollar or similar ) not long a go that my brother bought through lack of research, the steel was harder & the geometry was all out of wack which took a lot longer to hone even after fixing the geometry issues

this is not my razor & I don't own any Dovo's, but the couple I have shaved with, take an edge well & shave nice
regards
Dion
 
Joined
Jun 18, 2016
Location
Gladstone, Queenslads, Australia
Interested in why you use the natural stones instead of synthetics.
So far I’ve just used synthetics (Naniwa, Suehiro and Shapton) and have been happy with the edges I can get off those. I’d like try the naturals (when I slow down buying razors). Any suggestions where to start, seems a little mystical in some respects (ancient stones, very rare, no longer mined or if they are by some ancient Japanese gentleman who should of retired 4 decades ago but thankfully for us he still cares about quality stones) or is it simply personal preferences. If I get into naturals do I have to relearn technique? Can the naturals achieve the same grit levels in terms of polish?
I don't use the Jnats exclusively the last hone session I did I used only my Synthetic hones
Naniwa SS 1k - Norton 4/8k - Naniwa SS 12k - crox 0.3 microns on balsa - Ferrox 0.1 micron on balsa
I also have used the Jnat as a finisher over the synthetics to trial different techniques & edge finishes
IF the razors are mine I use what ever I want to play with on the day
if it is for someone else they can request which finish they want

Any suggestions where to start, - buy from a reputable seller who has razor knowledge
Seems a little mystical in some respects - I find it is
or is it simply personal preferences - you don't know if you don't try all I can say
If I get into naturals do I have to relearn technique? - not really in blade movements only how you use the stone with or with out slurries etc, I only use self slurry from the DMT on my Jnats so far, still looking for some decent Nagura to compliment them but have done the same with slurries on my synthetics
Can the naturals achieve the same grit levels in terms of polish?- yes as with any 12k stone it is the grit size that maters, but the naturals all have variations & can be harder to determined unlike a manufactured synthetic hone, hence the need to but from a reputable seller or spend the dollars & hours on trial& error
 
Joined
Jun 1, 2017
Location
Dubbo
I don't use the Jnats exclusively the last hone session I did I used only my Synthetic hones
Naniwa SS 1k - Norton 4/8k - Naniwa SS 12k - crox 0.3 microns on balsa - Ferrox 0.1 micron on balsa
I also have used the Jnat as a finisher over the synthetics to trial different techniques & edge finishes
IF the razors are mine I use what ever I want to play with on the day
if it is for someone else they can request which finish they want

Any suggestions where to start, - buy from a reputable seller who has razor knowledge
Seems a little mystical in some respects - I find it is
or is it simply personal preferences - you don't know if you don't try all I can say
If I get into naturals do I have to relearn technique? - not really in blade movements only how you use the stone with or with out slurries etc, I only use self slurry from the DMT on my Jnats so far, still looking for some decent Nagura to compliment them but have done the same with slurries on my synthetics
Can the naturals achieve the same grit levels in terms of polish?- yes as with any 12k stone it is the grit size that maters, but the naturals all have variations & can be harder to determined unlike a manufactured synthetic hone, hence the need to but from a reputable seller or spend the dollars & hours on trial& error
Thanks @Substance . That's helpful and interesting. Can you tell the difference in shaving between a razor that's been honed with natural against synthetics?
 
Joined
Jun 18, 2016
Location
Gladstone, Queenslads, Australia
Thanks @Substance . That's helpful and interesting. Can you tell the difference in shaving between a razor that's been honed with natural against synthetics?
Maybe if you used the same razor for a decent duration then changed honing systems or had 2 identical razors honed differently to compare side by side, you might be able to notice differences,
but as I use a different razor for each shave & have over 20 str8s in my favorite's rotation & don't notice subtleties of a different honing finish on an individual blade,
I do notice different blades finishes but not so much the hone used as all are stropped a couple hundred times after honing anyway,
but different steels can react differently to some hones, the use of slurry & only clean water
then there is the option to do a single stone hone progression with naturals using self slurries or Nagura's that I don't think work the same way with a synthetics
 

Arnold J Rimmer

Member
2017 Sabbatical Fail
Artisan Producer
Joined
Apr 10, 2015
Location
NSW Central Coast
The major differences I note to myself, seem to be due to the height of the blades themselves. I only have three as my sample, but the 5/8" Puma is a lot more forgiving than the 7/16-1/2" Wester. The Bengall at 9/16" is literally right in the middle.

I only have 1 natural stone, which is around 13k, and Chinese in originn. The rest - 1k, 3k, 8k - are all synthetics. As a combination, they hone really well, though the Bengall does need extra laps, for sure. I'm not sure it is because of the age of the thing (circa 1920), or the type of steel, but it can take a while to really settle in. The other 2 take half the time to set and settle. In the end, they are all sharp.

For stropping, I use bare canvas on a paddle for at least 100 laps, followed by a tensioned leather belt for another 100 or so. Hasn't failed me yet.
 
Joined
Jun 18, 2016
Location
Gladstone, Queenslads, Australia
A new 5/8" Thiers Issard dressed in ebony, fresh out of the box & onto the stones
additional work required was some minor stabilizer mods at the heal & a water mark on the spine cleaned up



Naniwa Super Stone 1K - Bevel Setting using 600 grit nagura slurry to clean water
Uchigomoru Suita - 3-5k razor polishing self slurry to clean water
Nakayama Asagi 12k plus -Finisher self slurry to clean water
i find this to be a very efficient system
 
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