Oiling Razors - detailed discussion

mtpedals

Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2021
Location
Texas
MOD NOTE: Question prompted considerable discussion - worthy of its own thread.


Homelike Taiga 2 Ti (Russia)



It had to happen. Eventually someone was going to be the first to release a machined titanium adjustable razor; it has now eventuated and the gong goes to the Homelike Taiga 2 Ti. Only thirty of these little beauties were available in the first drop and these seemed to take forever to sell off - Price??? Homelike’s Taiga Ti is based on the second generation of the Taiga. While the first generation of the Taiga was stainless steel with both SB and OC plates plus the option of a titanium handle; this generation of the Taiga comes in both stainless steel and titanium variants with a SB plate only. This week I’m reviewing the titanium version.

Just like the original, the Taiga 2 Ti can be completely stripped to its seven individual parts without the use of tools; remembering that there are both left and right handed threads in the assembly with alignment marks on the cap and both sections of the plate. It was intriguing to observe the quality polished finish on each component. The initial purchase price of the Taiga 2 Ti may have been steep but with the parts laid out in front of me, I can see how the expense has been justified; I was simply blown away, this is manufacturing perfection. One spring maintains pressure between the top and bottom sections of the plate and has been incorporated into the shoulder of the handle thus permitting the plates to be quite thin. When assembled, the thickness of the head does not immediately portray that you are using an adjustable. It would never do for me to strip an adjustable and not apply a drop of oil to each thread; the improvement in smoothness was immense.

With the rotating adjuster on setting #4, the Taiga performed in an area above Karve CB Level #D efficiency with a positive amount of blade feel; very usable but there was better to come. Dropping the setting back to #3 saw an immediate improvement in both the way the razor felt and performed; between Karve CB #C - #D efficiency with a pleasant amount of blade feel, that shave felt relaxed. Setting #2 was very usable and the Taiga performed effortlessly but when I selected #1 it was into my no-go zone – mild and no blade feel, you can be sure I did not spend a lot of time there. I used only the numbered settings but there are marked midway lines between the numbers and even these gaps can be infinitely broken down to refine the shave. When I used the Taiga in the range of settings that worked for me, I was in heaven; importantly, the razor felt light in the hand, was menouverable, secure grip and the head thickness did not pose any problems in those tight parts. Taiga’s Ti 2 Adjustable razor very much appeals to me. Homelike have a Taiga LE listed but it has been sitting there for ages with a note ‘Coming soon in stock’. Now, after sampling the standard Ti, I am a lot more interested in the LE.

Adjustment Range – #1 - #5 with mid position lines
  • #1 - Useless
  • #2 – Karve CB Level #C minus - an amount of positive blade
  • #3 – Karve CB Level #C - #D – an amount of positive blade
  • #4 – Karve CB Level #D plus – positive blade feel
  • #5 – One long cut
Blades Used – Ladas and Triton
Material – Titanium BT3-1
Blade Tab – Covered
Weight – 61g
Head Width – 43.2mm
Handle Length – 84.88mm
Handle Diameter – 11.81mm
Availability – Homelike Shaving
Final Word – Liked it
Great review, Errol. May I ask what type oil you apply to the threads of your razors? I use mineral oil but wondering if you use something different? Thanks!
 
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Great review, Errol. May I ask what type oil you apply to the threads of your razors? I use mineral oil but wondering if you use something different? Thanks!

Thanks @mtpedals and @klinker for the question. I use fishing reel oil; it's a light synthetic oil, comes in a small size bottle, has a long nozzle that can place one dot of oil wherever its required and even when it run under water there is still enough residue remaining to lubricate everything. For a long time I used a brand called Hot Sauce Reel Oil but when it ran out I had to get Protecta Reel Lubricant. I haven't noticed any difference so I would say any reel oil would work. Good luck. You'll notice a marked improvement.

 
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Thanks @mtpedals and @klinker for the question. I use fishing reel oil; it's a light synthetic oil, comes in a small size bottle, has a long nozzle that can place one dot of oil wherever its required and even when it run under water there is still enough residue remaining to lubricate everything. For a long time I used a brand called Hot Sauce Reel Oil but when it ran out I had to get Protecta Reel Lubricant. I haven't noticed any difference so I would say any reel oil would work. Good luck. You'll notice a marked improvement.

Thanks @Errol (y)
 
Thanks @mtpedals and @klinker for the question. I use fishing reel oil; it's a light synthetic oil, comes in a small size bottle, has a long nozzle that can place one dot of oil wherever its required and even when it run under water there is still enough residue remaining to lubricate everything. For a long time I used a brand called Hot Sauce Reel Oil but when it ran out I had to get Protecta Reel Lubricant. I haven't noticed any difference so I would say any reel oil would work. Good luck. You'll notice a marked improvement.


note sure if this is a stupid question, but why do you add oil to the threads of a razor? to be clear by threads we are talking about the part the razor head screws onto?
 
note sure if this is a stupid question, but why do you add oil to the threads of a razor? to be clear by threads we are talking about the part the razor head screws onto?

@StratMan – Yes, the female treads is in the end of the handle and the male thread is the extension on the cap that screw into each other to join the two pieces together; except Darwin razors, they work in reverse. Obviously, you don’t use oil on your razors and you’ve never had an issue. The truth is that you are correct and the reasons for this are that the threads get very little use, thread engagement is sloppy, the movement is slow speed, the thread is around 5mm in diameter and the diameter of the handle is probably around 12mm giving you a considerable mechanical advantage. Speed the process up and friction starts to become an issue though, heat is built up and the two working pieces of metal want to seize together. What lubricating the thread does is place a microscopic film of oil between the two pieces of metal to provide a situation where there is no metal to metal contact. I not only use oil on the threads but anywhere there is metal to metal contact and they move.

To demonstrate metal seizing together, take a hacksaw or a file to a piece of aluminium and after a few strokes you will notice aluminium pieces stuck to the blade or file. Exactly the same happens when threads a mated dry, the metal wants to weld together.

It’s Sunday morning and you take the family for a drive. It’s sunny so there is good tyre grip on the bitumen road, stopping and turning are not an issue. On the way home after lunch, it’s pouring with rain and the road is wet, you have to slow down to take the corners and your braking distance has increased dramatically. Less grip, the film of water is doing exactly what you want the oil to do in the razor.

I am currently working with a Vector razor. As I first unscrewed the handle, I could feel thread chatter; grip, release, grip, release, etc. Blackland make a quality product so the chances of a machining fault was rare. After a couple of drops of oil on the thread, the chatter disappeared and the thread engagement was smooth. Try some oil on the threads on your razors, they’ll work better and last longer for it and you’ll be surprised at just how smooth the thread engagement can be.
 
n76bKe2.jpg

I was inspired to hit the collection with Tri-Flow (my favoured bicycle lubricant). Thanks for the tip @Errol !
 
@StratMan – Yes, the female treads is in the end of the handle and the male thread is the extension on the cap that screw into each other to join the two pieces together; except Darwin razors, they work in reverse. Obviously, you don’t use oil on your razors and you’ve never had an issue. The truth is that you are correct and the reasons for this are that the threads get very little use, thread engagement is sloppy, the movement is slow speed, the thread is around 5mm in diameter and the diameter of the handle is probably around 12mm giving you a considerable mechanical advantage. Speed the process up and friction starts to become an issue though, heat is built up and the two working pieces of metal want to seize together. What lubricating the thread does is place a microscopic film of oil between the two pieces of metal to provide a situation where there is no metal to metal contact. I not only use oil on the threads but anywhere there is metal to metal contact and they move.

To demonstrate metal seizing together, take a hacksaw or a file to a piece of aluminium and after a few strokes you will notice aluminium pieces stuck to the blade or file. Exactly the same happens when threads a mated dry, the metal wants to weld together.

It’s Sunday morning and you take the family for a drive. It’s sunny so there is good tyre grip on the bitumen road, stopping and turning are not an issue. On the way home after lunch, it’s pouring with rain and the road is wet, you have to slow down to take the corners and your braking distance has increased dramatically. Less grip, the film of water is doing exactly what you want the oil to do in the razor.

I am currently working with a Vector razor. As I first unscrewed the handle, I could feel thread chatter; grip, release, grip, release, etc. Blackland make a quality product so the chances of a machining fault was rare. After a couple of drops of oil on the thread, the chatter disappeared and the thread engagement was smooth. Try some oil on the threads on your razors, they’ll work better and last longer for it and you’ll be surprised at just how smooth the thread engagement can be.

It was Friday on another thread when I said "Stainless steel hates itself" when asked what metal I have on hand to make handles out of.
Great material, but as Errol said, it loves to "Gall". And most of our good razors are made out of this stuff.
When I switched out heaps of galvanized bolts under my caravan for stainless steel bolts (because it goes on the beach a lot:cool:), I used a nickel based thread paste to provide the barrier between the threads to prevent them galling together. M12 stainless bolts will break in half before the threads let go if done wrong :rage::rage::rage:. (ask me how I know)
I wouldn't put it on a razor though, pretty toxic stuff.
I recently got a bottle of Paraffin Oil (mineral oil) from the pharmacy for all my razors. Non toxic, safe for your innards as well as your outers. No safety concerns for me around the face, mouth, lips, small cuts etc. YMMV, and do your own research though. I was using the same oils as Errol until I go this bottle. More options now.

Example below link
https://www.pharmacydirect.com.au/gold-cross-liquid-paraffin-b-p-200ml
 
@StratMan – Yes, the female treads is in the end of the handle and the male thread is the extension on the cap that screw into each other to join the two pieces together; except Darwin razors, they work in reverse. Obviously, you don’t use oil on your razors and you’ve never had an issue. The truth is that you are correct and the reasons for this are that the threads get very little use, thread engagement is sloppy, the movement is slow speed, the thread is around 5mm in diameter and the diameter of the handle is probably around 12mm giving you a considerable mechanical advantage. Speed the process up and friction starts to become an issue though, heat is built up and the two working pieces of metal want to seize together. What lubricating the thread does is place a microscopic film of oil between the two pieces of metal to provide a situation where there is no metal to metal contact. I not only use oil on the threads but anywhere there is metal to metal contact and they move.

To demonstrate metal seizing together, take a hacksaw or a file to a piece of aluminium and after a few strokes you will notice aluminium pieces stuck to the blade or file. Exactly the same happens when threads a mated dry, the metal wants to weld together.

It’s Sunday morning and you take the family for a drive. It’s sunny so there is good tyre grip on the bitumen road, stopping and turning are not an issue. On the way home after lunch, it’s pouring with rain and the road is wet, you have to slow down to take the corners and your braking distance has increased dramatically. Less grip, the film of water is doing exactly what you want the oil to do in the razor.

I am currently working with a Vector razor. As I first unscrewed the handle, I could feel thread chatter; grip, release, grip, release, etc. Blackland make a quality product so the chances of a machining fault was rare. After a couple of drops of oil on the thread, the chatter disappeared and the thread engagement was smooth. Try some oil on the threads on your razors, they’ll work better and last longer for it and you’ll be surprised at just how smooth the thread engagement can be.

Thanks for the detailed response @Errol i never thought of it as I clean my razors (thread included) after every single shave but def makes sense and I have plenty of reel oil around so I might as well start doing it myself
 
After reading previous threads on P&C I bough camellia oil for straights (used by Shogun Warriors on their Katanas, so must be good, RIGHT!) and use it on all razors after cleaning and before returning to storage.
 
Please let us know your thoughts when you've oiled them up
On this advice I ordered the Protector from eBay for under $20 delivered. I’m lazy and rather than go somewhere in person I paid for convenience.
It arrived today and just oiled all my preciousnesses. How often would you do this? After each blade change?
 
On this advice I ordered the Protector from eBay for under $20 delivered. I’m lazy and rather than go somewhere in person I paid for convenience.
It arrived today and just oiled all my preciousnesses. How often would you do this? After each blade change?

The oil will not quickly wash away or disperse, so if you only rinse the razor I would say every three months but you may stretch this time frame. However if you scrub everything down after each shave, try every fortnight. You’ll know when it’s time to give it an oil, the razor will tell you.
 
@Errol I applied it to the wolfman, a Rocca and a lupo.. all 3 made a difference but with the wolf it was very minimal which shows the quality of the tolerances

the lupo and Rocca felt a big difference, especially with the ‘sticking’ feeling once there closed tight and also while screwing together.

paid close attention to them before the lube and could hear the chatter you mentioned of the metal to metal stewing together, once the lube was applied there was no noise whatsoever

just wonder how long this will last especially considering how I clean them after each shave?
 
Edit. Ooops, sorry @Errol I was replying to others about lubing razor threads, and managed to pop in after your latest review.
Thanks for all your effort in testing and commenting on these razors. Very much appreciated.

I now use CRC 808 for lubing razor threads.
It dries on and leaves a lubricating film to stop galling, etc.
Just a wee squirt in the cap threads, and into the handle hole.
No mess, no drama.
Would work well for Fatboys, Slims, etc too.
Probably be good to use in a Flexi, etc?
https://www.crc.co.nz/808-Silicone/6895-15e667c2-8e92-4224-8674-7086168c93ea/
 
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