Troy Tools Custom Brush Handles

[Gargravarr]

An awful lot of work filing and catching shavings created by filing with a farriers file (see extremely coarse file)

FYI, a farrier's file is called a rasp.

 

[TroyTools]

A small amount of leftover resin from a previous pour, saved the leftover in a standard mold.
Can't do a lot of design with a small blank, but it still holds a knot.
Simple but functional. 26mm.
The visually defined knot socket floor you can see through the transparent wall does blend in when epoxy glue is used to set the knot in place.
Sometimes I even colour the epoxy knot glue and knot glue plug to blend it in also.
It just looks unappealing until completed with a glued knot.
The medal underneath looks funky because it isn't glued in, it's just sitting in place with a small bit of blu-tac to stop it falling out.

 

[TroyTools]

My first attempt at brass-work in wood handles. The wood is called Supplejack. It is an Australian desert "mulga" type wood. Very hard, heavy and super dense. Sinks like a stone in water and resists water ingress.
Add a couple of brass pieces and it's getting hefty. This brush pictured with a 28mm boar knot. This one will obviously get my brass makers medal underneath.
Brass, wood and boar knot, for the old school traditionalist.
I did learn a few things making this handle, things that will inform future handles like this one regarding the blank building workflow and subsequent turning process. A great little skill building exercise with some learnings along the way. I still have more of this wood in stock, but now I'm starting to get an itch for the Jarrah burls and the Gidgee blanks I have.

 

[TroyTools]

This one in orange, black and white. Drilled for a 28mm knot.

 

[Zeke]

My first attempt at brass-work in wood handles. The wood is called Supplejack. It is an Australian desert "mulga" type wood. Very hard, heavy and super dense. Sinks like a stone in water and resists water ingress.
Add a couple of brass pieces and it's getting hefty. This brush pictured with a 28mm boar knot. This one will obviously get my brass makers medal underneath.
Brass, wood and boar knot, for the old school traditionalist.
I did learn a few things making this handle, things that will inform future handles like this one regarding the blank building workflow and subsequent turning process. A great little skill building exercise with some learnings along the way. I still have more of this wood in stock, but now I'm starting to get an itch for the Jarrah burls and the Gidgee blanks I have.

Have you turned Gidgee before? I know how hard and heavy it is, and it's amazing firewood and it's best to use the back of the axe rather than the blade, to break it up. Does it hold together well when turning?

 

[rbscebu]

My first attempt at brass-work in wood handles. The wood is called Supplejack. It is an Australian desert "mulga" type wood. Very hard, heavy and super dense. Sinks like a stone in water and resists water ingress.
Add a couple of brass pieces and it's getting hefty. This brush pictured with a 28mm boar knot. This one will obviously get my brass makers medal underneath.
Brass, wood and boar knot, for the old school traditionalist.
I did learn a few things making this handle, things that will inform future handles like this one regarding the blank building workflow and subsequent turning process. A great little skill building exercise with some learnings along the way. I still have more of this wood in stock, but now I'm starting to get an itch for the Jarrah burls and the Gidgee blanks I have.

I have never been very much into brushes but have always been a timber type of bloke. That brush has won me over. It is lovely.

 

[TroyTools]

Have you turned Gidgee before? I know how hard and heavy it is, and it's amazing firewood and it's best to use the back of the axe rather than the blade, to break it up. Does it hold together well when turning?

No I haven't turned Gidgee before, even though it is in my stockpile. I think the hardest I have turned is Brushbox, and some very old dry Jarrah. These woods are nearly impossible to make large items out of because the HSS gouges go blunt mid cut, on the first cut after sharpening. I do tend to use the carbide tools after that. Much harder and durable, but more sanding afterwards because the cut isn't as clean as a traditional sharp gouge. I use the Brushbox now for chisel handles because of its weight and strength/durability, plus it takes a polish like nothing else because it's so hard. The Supplejack handle above (sold now ) polishes up real nice too. That one is sanded to 2000 grit and and a polish cream applied at high speed, then just a coat of friction oil polish for a hard shine, no spray on lacquer or clear coat. Just beautiful.

 

[Phil Harmonica]

I’m glad that someone else bought the Supplejack handle.

 

[Zeke]

No I haven't turned Gidgee before, even though it is in my stockpile. I think the hardest I have turned is Brushbox, and some very old dry Jarrah. These woods are nearly impossible to make large items out of because the HSS gouges go blunt mid cut, on the first cut after sharpening. I do tend to use the carbide tools after that. Much harder and durable, but more sanding afterwards because the cut isn't as clean as a traditional sharp gouge. I use the Brushbox now for chisel handles because of its weight and strength/durability, plus it takes a polish like nothing else because it's so hard. The Supplejack handle above (sold now ) polishes up real nice too. That one is sanded to 2000 grit and and a polish cream applied at high speed, then just a coat of friction oil polish for a hard shine, no spray on lacquer or clear coat. Just beautiful.

I look forward to seeing the results.