The topic of setting a bevel can be a long debate. I guess some of us miss the main objective which is to cut a new primary edge which doesnt necessarily need to be on a 1k, could be done on a higher grit if the geometry is spot on and sometimes you need a much lower grit than a 1k if the things rooted.
Generally speaking, and keeping the topic about synthetic hones. My preferred method with a synthetic touch up (and I use that word loosely), is going down to my shapton 5k for many reasons.
The main reason is, you cannot over hone at the 5k (3um) range, note that the very edge will not be making contact with the stone due to the convexity of the bevel or edge from continuous stropping. In most cases, the feedback will change once the edge makes contact with the stone, that will happen when the bevel or cutting edge is no longer convex. The other reason that I prefer to start at the 5k, again, because the edge will not be making contact with the hone initally, so if you're starting your refresh from the 8k or 12k, you may not be able to determine when the edge is making contact with the stone therefore you'll end up doing too many strokes and potentially over honing which at that stage you'll make the edge very thin and fragile on those grits.
Once I have a true 5k edge, I do no more than 8-10 strokes on the 8k and a maximum of 15 strokes on the 12 and 20k, any more than that will result in a very fragile edge, which will still be sharp but will not hold up. Edge longevity is extremely important to me due to honing razors for others, therefore I'd like them to get the most out of their razor given the odds that user error exists.
Another thing to note is for those who refresh edges on a hanging strop loaded with compounds such as ChOx, the convexity of the edge is more extreme and most razors will need to go down to the lower grits like a 1 or 2k. This is just a stage that you begin sharpening, so you're not really setting a bevel providing that the geometry is good, you're only starting your sharpening process to remove the convexity which is technically cutting in a new primary edge which is the standard process of sharpening, you can call it whatever you like but the purpose is to observe your edge/razor and act accordingly but you must understand what you're trying to achieve and what your purpose is on each grit/hone/progression, if you do not have a clear understanding or precise reasoning to your method at each stage without super consistent results then its time to go back to the drawing board.
The factor is, there's a million ways to skin a cat, there are too many variables. I have a completely different method with naturals but remember to do what works for you and stick to it but don't be scared to experiment and try new things in your spare time.
Here's a video that I like by Dr Matt.