Barrister & Mann

[filobiblic]

I'm coming to appreciate the scent on Latha. Originally I thought it fairly neutral; neither here nor there. But as I've used it a couple of times now, I can smell more of its floral notes.

Here's how Will describes what's in it:

"...a classic barbershop fragrance with notes of lavender, vanilla, oakmoss, carnation, geranium, heliotrope, and musk..."

I had to look up the heliotrope scent, which is a powdery vanilla-cherry-almond.

So there are lots of floral notes with an underlying musk & vanilla (which doesn't come across too strong at all). In fact, I originally thought it had an anise/absinthe scent as that what my nose picked up. But I think that's what comes to mind initially, as I smelt it as a whole without separating out the floral notes.

The performance is excellent. Lathers quickly, easily and produces a rich, delightful lather. It doesn't dissipate but remains thick and cushiony. For the price point it's a no brainer. What I initially thought though was a "mmmm-ok" scent. But I'm really coming to like the fragrance.. a lot.

What do others think of the scent?

 

[stillshunter]

Hey @filobiblic this stuff sounds quite good. But Latha isn't on for the Group Buy is it? No Fougere either? Hmmmm...seems only second and third rung stuff, hence why the prices must be OK - is a B&M clearance.

 

[filobiblic]

Hey @filobiblic this stuff sounds quite good. But Latha isn't on for the Group Buy is it? No Fougere either? Hmmmm...seems only second and third rung stuff, hence why the prices must be OK - is a B&M clearance.

Latha is currently available (ie in stock). It's a definite for a group buy. (I just think Monsta was thinking it would disappear in sales. But Will has about a week turnaround on the making of new stock.)

Fougere has been a special once off in the past. But from 6 May it will be back- but in general stock (ie not special or seasonal).

As for 2nd or 3rd rung stuff, no way! All Will's soaps come in and out of stock constantly. From all the ones I have tried they are exceptional. Highly recommended on whatever you get.

 

[Monsta_AU]

We are not having Latha in this group buy. While it is in stock now it is likely not to be during the term of the group buy being open with the limited release coming out. It's likely that we will then have to deal with substitutions and some people dropping out because of that unavailability, so that will just make things slower and harder to manage for all.

We have been asked to time the group buy very carefully, which we are sticking to. In order to not 'take advantage of our welcome' and also to make a second buy WITH the fougeres available, we are limiting this one down. If we had been able to put a hold on X units, then we would have offered it.

My suggestion is that if there is a current special you want, grab it. If you only want the two fougeres and a Latha, then wait until the next one.

In the event of the Latha being out of stock at the next group buy, I have another way of getting them into our hands.

 

[filobiblic]

We are not having Latha in this group buy. While it is in stock now it is likely not to be during the term of the group buy being open with the limited release coming out. If we had been able to put a hold on X units, then we would have offered it.

We have been asked to time the group buy very carefully, which we are sticking to. In order to not 'take advantage of our welcome' and also to make a second buy WITH the fougeres available, we are limiting this one down.

My suggestion is that if there is a current special you want, grab it. If you only want the two fougeres and a Latha, then wait until the next one.

Sounds reasonable. Thanks for the clarification. Helpful. [emoji106]

I'm personally going to wait for the second round as I want a fougere (and I already have 3 B&M soaps). It also frees up space for others to go in.

This is a wonderful opportunity to get some high quality soap at a very reasonable price. Seville is a classic barbershop and Bay Rum is terrific. There are many other quality scented soaps to choose from. I have heard Will say that Lavanille and Cheshire are his favourite scents. Go get 'em!

 

[borked]

Anyone in Sydney that seeks to gain a whiff of the different aromas, I've a sample pack and 4 of the black labels, both fougeres and @filobiblic probably has enough to cover the rest, so speak up about arranging a meetup.

The black labels WILL be in the next traveling box btw.

 

[Barrister & Mann]

Latha is currently available (ie in stock). It's a definite for a group buy. (I just think Monsta was thinking it would disappear in sales. But Will has about a week turnaround on the making of new stock.)

Fougere has been a special once off in the past. But from 6 May it will be back- but in general stock (ie not special or seasonal).

As for 2nd or 3rd rung stuff, no way! All Will's soaps come in and out of stock constantly. From all the ones I have tried they are exceptional. Highly recommended on whatever you get.

Actually, that's not true. This will be the only run of the fougère soaps this year; the ingredients cost too much to make it a permanent production thing. We've done two runs in the past, but we've decided to limit it to one batch for the year and release something rather different around the holidays.

 

[borked]

Actually, that's not true. This will be the only run of the fougère soaps this year; the ingredients cost too much to make it a permanent production thing. We've done two runs in the past, but we've decided to limit it to one batch for the year and release something rather different around the holidays.

I think he was referencing the aftershave mate
If not, I stand corrected.

 

[filobiblic]

Actually, that's not true. This will be the only run of the fougère soaps this year; the ingredients cost too much to make it a permanent production thing. We've done two runs in the past, but we've decided to limit it to one batch for the year and release something rather different around the holidays.

I think he was referencing the aftershave mate
If not, I stand corrected.

I'm not sure where I got my "information" from above. Perhaps I mistook the information about the aftershaves (thanks @borked) and applied them to the soaps. But I knew they were special once-offs after reading one of your FB posts Will. I predict they won't last long...

 

[Monsta_AU]

Smelling the soaps that arrived in the group buy that I didn't order

Diamond - caramel popcorn and beer (hops) it most definitely is. Not my thing but it would be interesting to try an actual lathering with it.

Fireside - definite 'alcohol' smell to it, I don't think I would say it was specifically cognac but maybe a more Scotch/Brandy scent. The cedar and lime do not jump at me but I suspect different when water hits it.

Cheshire - Bergamot jumps out cheering in a slightly sour citrus. Some lavender but the rest is muddied. Again, water on this will change it. My initial feelings reading the scent notes was 'dunno if I would like it" but upon smelling it this has changed - likely to be a great summer soap for those who are not menthol maniacs. Scent also available in Kyovu AS.

Latha - just a clean scent really. I wouldn't quite call it a 'barbershop' scent in the normal terms, I actually think it is more in the vein of MWF although stronger than that. The scent is much lighter than the other B&M releases although still complex.

As for the ones I did get:

Lavanille - Not at all what I expected. Really deep and dark, immediate Leather/Lavender with a definite Cocoa note. It's kind of suggesting sweetness to my nose yet there is a very prominent bitterness too which I think is the Oakmoss. This stuff is potent in terms of scent and I am very impressed with the more modern interpretation of Pour un Homme de Caron.

Ferox - Initial thought of Vicks Vaporub, the tea tree really comes to the fore. Then hints of the grapefruit and the herbal notes behind. I really like this.

Rhapsody - possibly the most disappointing initial sniff. I get bay, thyme, musk and vanilla only. Just waaay too much going on and it is a bit of a mess in terms of accords on initial sniff. Unfortunately it doesn't smell like New York to me. I am hopeful that the lathering will release the citrus notes to try and balance it out but right now it's much to heavy on the bay.

 

[stillshunter]

Mate you should have smelled Roam. Hmmmm....

 

[Barrister & Mann]

Smelling the soaps that arrived in the group buy that I didn't order

Diamond - caramel popcorn and beer (hops) it most definitely is. Not my thing but it would be interesting to try an actual lathering with it.

Fireside - definite 'alcohol' smell to it, I don't think I would say it was specifically cognac but maybe a more Scotch/Brandy scent. The cedar and lime do not jump at me but I suspect different when water hits it.

Cheshire - Bergamot jumps out cheering in a slightly sour citrus. Some lavender but the rest is muddied. Again, water on this will change it. My initial feelings reading the scent notes was 'dunno if I would like it" but upon smelling it this has changed - likely to be a great summer soap for those who are not menthol maniacs. Scent also available in Kyovu AS.

Latha - just a clean scent really. I wouldn't quite call it a 'barbershop' scent in the normal terms, I actually think it is more in the vein of MWF although stronger than that. The scent is much lighter than the other B&M releases although still complex.

As for the ones I did get:

Lavanille - Not at all what I expected. Really deep and dark, immediate Leather/Lavender with a definite Cocoa note. It's kind of suggesting sweetness to my nose yet there is a very prominent bitterness too which I think is the Oakmoss. This stuff is potent in terms of scent and I am very impressed with the more modern interpretation of Pour un Homme de Caron.

Ferox - Initial thought of Vicks Vaporub, the tea tree really comes to the fore. Then hints of the grapefruit and the herbal notes behind. I really like this.

Rhapsody - possibly the most disappointing initial sniff. I get bay, thyme, musk and vanilla only. Just waaay too much going on and it is a bit of a mess in terms of accords on initial sniff. Unfortunately it doesn't smell like New York to me. I am hopeful that the lathering will release the citrus notes to try and balance it out but right now it's much to heavy on the bay.

Right then, some of these less than accurate, so allow me to clear some things up:

Cheshire: You're having trouble separating the clary sage and the bergamot. Will likely become more obvious when lathered; other than bergamot, clary sage, lavender, and patchouli, there's nothing else in it, so not much to "muddy."

Lavanille: Oakmoss is not bitter. It's about the furthest thing from bitter there could possibly be. What you're smelling is a compound called isobutyl quinoline, which is used in most modern leather accords in some quantity and was originally showcased by Mousse de Saxe (which was created as a demonstration piece rather than an intended perfume base). I actually go into the history a bit more in the description on the website.

Rhapsody: 1) Lather it. 2) Unless you're EXTREMELY sensitive to bay, which is frankly unlikely, that's not what you're smelling. The proportion of bay to the rest of the fragrance is pretty small. My guess is that you're getting the cinnamic aldehyde and hexylcinnamic alcohol in the blossom accords, but even then I suggest you lather it. The fragrance develops quite considerably with water, as it was designed to.

 

[borked]

I love it when artisans feel comfortable enough to jump in and freely contribute.
Received notification as yet Will ?

 

[Barrister & Mann]

I love it when artisans feel comfortable enough to jump in and freely contribute.
Received notification as yet Will ?

About what?

 

[borked]

IIRC, it was around now you are due to find if you made the bar.

 

[Barrister & Mann]

IIRC, it was around now you are due to find if you made the bar.

Oh. Yes, got the results, didn't pass. Going to take it again in July. Thanks for asking!

 

[Monsta_AU]

Cheshire: You're having trouble separating the clary sage and the bergamot. Will likely become more obvious when lathered; other than bergamot, clary sage, lavender, and patchouli, there's nothing else in it, so not much to "muddy."

Oh don't get me wrong, there is no 'mud' scent to it at all, just that the Bergamot is so strong that it overpowers everything else 'in the tub' is very hard to ascertain what it is. Hence my quote of 'the rest is muddied (and I cannot work out what it is)'. I do make out a slight lavender-type of note with it which is quite soft. But it is a really nice scent - @MrT mentioned last night that he was getting impressions of Tea in it which is exactly what we think you were going for.

Lavanille: Oakmoss is not bitter. It's about the furthest thing from bitter there could possibly be. What you're smelling is a compound called isobutyl quinoline, which is used in most modern leather accords in some quantity and was originally showcased by Mousse de Saxe (which was created as a demonstration piece rather than an intended perfume base). I actually go into the history a bit more in the description on the website.

I have never sniffed Oakmoss directly so I was indeed having a guess based on other scents that I know have it as an ingredient. So what is creating that sweeter cocoa-like note? I did lather this up and shave this morning and I am super-impressed with the scent left on my face 30 minutes later! It is actually reminding me more of L'instant de Gerlain pour Homme which is one of my favourite scents out there. The other half is getting the astringent notes more than the cocoa when she has a sniff of my skin.

Rhapsody: 1) Lather it. 2) Unless you're EXTREMELY sensitive to bay, which is frankly unlikely, that's not what you're smelling. The proportion of bay to the rest of the fragrance is pretty small. My guess is that you're getting the cinnamic aldehyde and hexylcinnamic alcohol in the blossom accords, but even then I suggest you lather it. The fragrance develops quite considerably with water, as it was designed to.

Absolutely, I was only giving my initial impressions out of the jar. New York is one of my all-time favourite scents (yet difficult to find online) which is why I am not ready to write it off until I have had a number of latherings out of it. Since I got the Dickens through @eggbert (which I think was second-hand to him also) the scent has been much milder and cohesive than these new jars. Don't get me wrong, Dickens is quite different but I 'get it' and actually quite like it. I have been using it exclusively for around 2 weeks.

The Rhapsody in comparison, my nose simply does not 'get' the accords presented as a new jar. In fact, I would go as far as to say there is no accord yet to speak of as all the scents coming at my nose are working against each other. I am pretty sure I mentioned that I would lather it a few times and come back to the scent. My impression is - and please correct me if I am wrong - that certain molecules will stratify on cooling and 'rise to the top', therefore the balance is quite out of whack until that very top layer is lathered away.

Anyway, based on the Lavanille lather this morning - although a weird shade of brown - was simply excellent and the shaving properties of your soaps...well in my mind they are beyond question. Best and easiest lathers I have ever had, period.

When does the Cologne Russo soap come out?

 

[borked]

Oh. Yes, got the results, didn't pass. Going to take it again in July. Thanks for asking!

Damn, best of luck when you sit it again in July mate.

 

[Nonick]

After a fairly lacklustre response to begin I'm glad everyones got on board with Barrister & Mann.

Truly a company that makes products worth talking about.

A stable selection of staples and a clever seasonal releases means acquisitions should continue!

 

[Barrister & Mann]

Oh don't get me wrong, there is no 'mud' scent to it at all, just that the Bergamot is so strong that it overpowers everything else 'in the tub' is very hard to ascertain what it is. Hence my quote of 'the rest is muddied (and I cannot work out what it is)'. I do make out a slight lavender-type of note with it which is quite soft. But it is a really nice scent - @MrT mentioned last night that he was getting impressions of Tea in it which is exactly what we think you were going for.



I have never sniffed Oakmoss directly so I was indeed having a guess based on other scents that I know have it as an ingredient. So what is creating that sweeter cocoa-like note? I did lather this up and shave this morning and I am super-impressed with the scent left on my face 30 minutes later! It is actually reminding me more of L'instant de Gerlain pour Homme which is one of my favourite scents out there. The other half is getting the astringent notes more than the cocoa when she has a sniff of my skin.



Absolutely, I was only giving my initial impressions out of the jar. New York is one of my all-time favourite scents (yet difficult to find online) which is why I am not ready to write it off until I have had a number of latherings out of it. Since I got the Dickens through @eggbert (which I think was second-hand to him also) the scent has been much milder and cohesive than these new jars. Don't get me wrong, Dickens is quite different but I 'get it' and actually quite like it. I have been using it exclusively for around 2 weeks.

The Rhapsody in comparison, my nose simply does not 'get' the accords presented as a new jar. In fact, I would go as far as to say there is no accord yet to speak of as all the scents coming at my nose are working against each other. I am pretty sure I mentioned that I would lather it a few times and come back to the scent. My impression is - and please correct me if I am wrong - that certain molecules will stratify on cooling and 'rise to the top', therefore the balance is quite out of whack until that very top layer is lathered away.

Anyway, based on the Lavanille lather this morning - although a weird shade of brown - was simply excellent and the shaving properties of your soaps...well in my mind they are beyond question. Best and easiest lathers I have ever had, period.

When does the Cologne Russo soap come out?

No no, I didn't interpret it to mean that you were saying it smelled like mud. My point is that, generally, things that can be described as "muddy" are usually a bit more complicated; there's just not a whole lot to BE muddied, you know?

The cocoa note in Lavanille is an accidental result of the interaction between vanillin and Mousse de Saxe (whose formula and complete note list I keep secret). I actually didn't really notice it until the second or third batch of the soap, and some people don't notice it at all. It's one of those strange artifacts of soap chemistry. The astringent, bitter notes you're left with are almost certainly the isobutyl quinoline, though.

As for Rhapsody, there are definitely distinct accords in it, but the whole thing hits you in the face when you first smell it in the jar. This is one of the major challenges of soap fragrance: how do you take something complicated and make it develop properly when anyone who smells the soap unlathered will smell the entire thing all at once? It's like reading a book instantly; it just seems like noise until you can spread it out and see how it's put together. That's why I tell people that, when it comes to Rhapsody especially, my soaps generally smell better when lathered. Gives the user a chance to separate out everything in the fragrance. They usually make more sense to people that way.