Just to clear some things up. Lager yeast should brew at12 -16 no more and ale yeast 16-20.the exception would be some Belgian strains that can go mid 20s but expect lots of fruity and spicy yeast characters.the other thing is homebrew keeps worse than commercial craft beer. The pros keep oxygen ingress to a minimum and contamination is not an issue usually with cleaning and sanitation procedures that far exceed what can be achieved at home.the old leave it longer is to cover up for bad brewing practice such as under pitching and not using oxygenation.using the tin yeast(about 1/3 of what you need) being a big culprit for newbies.if it takes your beer a month to come good your practices need upgrading.hoppy beers start to fade in 2 weeks or less and a pale beer can oxidize in a month stored warm.if it's taking a month to carb bottles your yeast health is poor.likely from the under pitch and fluctuating ferment temps and low dissolved oxygen at the start.a wheat beer for instance should be 5 from grain to brain keggingadding 5-7 days if bottled any longer the beer goes downhill. Hazy ipas have a 1 month life tops before going downhill fast.
My first batch bottles were far too cool, so only started getting going when I moved them after a couple of weeks to better temp. The only thing I've done this time is to keep the bottles warmer than before from the start, so they stay in the carbonation zone. They're still going to take 2-3 weeks. Cracked a tester after 7 days and it's holding a head, but is flat. Many long term and all grain brewers on sites will ferment for 2 weeks and bottle for 4 minimum, regardless of what they're making, which is probably unnecessary.