A few things in the wind - Testing and making scents
While not forming part of the 'how to'
per se I thought I may detail a few more scents that I have been working on and that have come to fruition, I make this record as much for my own reading in the future while of course intending it to be read by those of you who have followed or shown an interest in this project of mine since it's inception.
I thought I would post the three new scents I have been working on in that they are ready to go to the testing stage in the next few weeks. More on that when I feel they are ready to hit the post and so forth
Testing fragrances and scents
When I am formulating a scent, the first step is obviously to gather the
idea of what the fragrance will be. Will it be citrusy, oriental, deep, dark, moody, pork choppy, woody and so forth. After I have the general idea, I turn my mind to what accords (if any) I can or will use in the scent. Some formulas do not use accords, they use exact quantities of oils and absolutes, others lean on a particular 'harmony' in either the base, mid or top or even all three.
Accords
From this point the fun begins, fun if you like maths and percentages and the almost constant reference to online perfume references to work out the accords, will they work, won't they work, might they work and so on. I work with 3 different vials for a scent, each vial contains what perfumers call an 'accord' which is a bunch of oils and absolutes in very exact percentages.
Some people buy their accords pre-made, others make them from scratch. I quite proudly (stupidly) fall into the latter camp, I make my own accords from reading often very old perfume handbooks, trawling perfume forums (egotistical, pretentious bunch but full of info) and then calculating the percentages, experimenting with
small amounts of oils as not everything works.
The process and calculations of accords are complicated, a lot of reading and imho something that if you want to start working on your own scents you need to research, learn and struggle to learn more yourself.
I am a rank beginner in this regard, I am still reading and learning and re-reading. A basic google search of
Perfume Accords will set you on the right track - you will find perfumers that sell accords and explain them, forums that discuss them, blog pages by perfume enthusiasts and in fact their is a wealth of information on them and perfume. It takes the time, ability to research and the skill of parsing information for what is useful, what is complete rubbish (well meaning new-age ladies with crystal/aroma therapy blogs) and commercial websites selling accords without actually telling you what is in them.
Testing and Formulating Accords
So you will need to have at a bare minimum 4 or 5 base notes (5 different essential oils - say sandalwood, amber, tonka etc) probably 4 or 5 heart notes (4 or 5 different essential oils/absolutes such as lavender, ginger, etc) and roughly the same for the top notes (4 different essential oils - bergamot, orange, jasmine etc)
I am going to use ml here as I have throughout the rest of this thread, I now weigh my oils as it is much more accurate. For continuity's sake I will stick with ml (mili litres)
Base Accord
Equipment Needed
5 x 1ml brand new pipette
1 x 5ml amber vial
5 x Essential oils of different types
A notepad and pen
A calculator
An idea of the accord you are going to make, we do't just mix random oils willy nilly.
It goes without saying, but I will say it anyway
never use the same pipette in different essential oils. If you do this you pollute and compromise the pure oils, if they are polluted they are uncertain, if they are uncertain they are absolutely useless for making splashes and perfume.
The Process
Quite simply, you take a small quantity of oil and using a pipette drop and record a
specific measured quantity which you record on the paper you have next to you into the vial.
1. .250 ml Sandalwood
You then smell and take the next Essential oil for your accord, take note of it's strength and character and
add another specific measured quantity which you record into the 5ml vial. Selecting oil number two is based on what smells nice to you, or what you have read 'works' or what you choose based on knowing what forms an accord. The oil cannot be 'random', sure you might get lucky but chances are you won't.
2. .050 ml Tonka bean absolute
You now have 2 different essential oils in known quantities in the vial. Note that the quantities are
rarely identical. The real magic of accords is working out the quantities that work best, I suggest some google and research of perfume forums, you will find measurements and formulas that can be adapted with a bit of math and intelligence. Just about all the formulas that get posted need work, think about the ratios and how the numbers scale.
We repeat this process until we have an 'accord' - a balance of 2 or more individual scents that form a component of the whole. If you go in blind with no idea of a base accord and mix random oils in random amounts there is a very, very high chance you will end up with horrible smelling crap. Take the time to read and learn from others on what accords work, start with either base or top accords would be my advice - both of these 'frame' the scent and are much more easily grasped intially.
As we have noted the measurements working on a 1 or 2ml scale, when we want to make a 'base' we can simply do some basic math to 'scale up' the amount or weight we need. We now repeat the process two more times, we have made the 'base' accord now we need the heart and top. The same process is used with varying degrees of complexity and calculation.
Australian Private Reserve - A few new things this week
Three scents that I have been working on in the background, they have each gone through 5 to 10 different iterations as I get the formula to a stage where I won't die of embarrassment letting people try it. The perfume bases have been resting for a couple of weeks and I have made up some aftershave in a limited quantity which now rests to mature and age.
They are simple scents, certainly no complicated extravagant Fougère's or deep, intricate Vetiver's but rather these are scents for soaps that have no pairs. These I made as I love the soaps so much, they are made in the spirit of respect and homage to the artisans who formulated the scents they choose to compliment their soaps with. I really mean no offence here, rather admiration.
'EB' - Easterly Breeze
This is one I have been working on for some weeks and came about from my correspondence with a certain soap-maker renowned for making exceptionally good artisan soaps. I happened to mention that I had acquired a tub of his particular soap which he was no longer making and explained that I was having some degree of trouble trying to pair it with a balm and splash.
This is an 'unofficial' scent, it is not endorsed or encouraged by the maker and it is the result of my own hard won formula to get the ratios as close to the soap as I can. I will say though that the Portuguese word for breeze is '
Brisa'
Composition: Myrrh, Vanilla, Cinnamon, Basil, Cardamom
'TB' - sachet de thé (Tea Bag)
I sat with a tea-bag of Earl Grey in one hand and my 'kit' in the other determined and resolute - such a beautiful scent.
My intention in making this one is to pair with one of my favourite soaps from a highly skilled, highly popular US Artisan who currently does not have a splash or a balm for his particular soap. It is a
homage and nothing beyond that but by golly does it smell so good!
Composition: Patchouli, Lavender, Clary Sage, Bergamot, Neroli, Mandarin
'LO' l'endroit orange
If you will, possibly climb the hill to the great city of... a great traditional barber shop scent.
Again another of my favourite soaps without a balm or splash, the same artisan who I have so much respect for and whose products I have a great many of, again there is no splash or balm to pair with his wonderful soap and a situation that I had to rectify if not for anyone but myself. A wonderfully traditional barbershop scent in the Italian style, so many worlds removed from the sweet and saccharine affair that is some others on the market.
Woody, citrusy, herbaceous, mildly floral and
very Italian.
Composition: Oakmoss, Patchouli, Rosemary, Bergamot, Lemon, Orange
Conclusion
A rather piece meal offering this week, a little on accords, measurements and how to formulate them. Possibly of some interest, certainly material I can return to in order that I refresh my memory from time to time. If someone comes along and finds it useful or interesting then all the better for it!
Three new scents with no intention to cause a ruckus, rather just me formulating scents for beautiful soaps without companions. I will get some testers of splashes and accompanying balms out in the next few weeks in good time.
Comments, corrections, questions, ideas always welcome as per usual. Thanks for reading
