Weekly Razor Review

@Errol the new H&S is available now (with the stainless baseplate).
https://www.haircutandshaveco.com/products/haircut-shave-co-cnc-machined-double-edge-safety-razor
I am so tempted! Must try to resist.
Compared to the Karve SS OC I'm on the wait list for...is the H&S a better bet?
The Karve wins for adjustability with all those plates available.
The H&S is better looking, slimmer,and....?
Edit: I may have answered that last question myself...The Karve is $241NZ + shipping. The H&S is $345NZ + shipping. I can buy the Karve and an extra plate or two for the price of the H&S.

My H&S SS is in the post but will probably not be reviewed this year. I really like the shape of the new H&S handle on the full SS model, it's got the Wolfman WRH7 look about it. The balance of the new razor will be different due to a heavier head and a lighter handle but I'm still expecting a fantastic razor. My Karves in OC and SB are also in the post. Your heart is likely to steer you to the H&S but in your head you know there is going to be very little difference in the shave.

nice report @Errol.. try not to read these for obvious reasons, they are both real nice looking razors but must and will resist the temptation :)

I know what you're talking about; someone who shall remain nameless, has been singing the praises of the R41 so when I ordered the Paradigm Diamondback I included an R41 head.

How much are these?

I don't know that the prices have been released for the new Smart Helix but the price will include the stand and free postage. That will be an exceptional razor.
 
@Errol have you done a complete review on the RazoRock Game Changer .84 (0.84mm) vs the Karve CB ‘C’ (0.85mm) base plate side by side.

I’ve done a review on the Game Changer .84 but not a seperate review on the Karve CB #C plate. No comparisons side by side or back to back though.

SEptember is fast approaching. Drag out that General.
 
Edwin Jagger 3ONE6 (UK)



There was a lot of hype about the 3ONE6 prior to its going on sale. Edwin Jagger had been teasing for some months prior, releasing sneak shots of parts of the razor that revealed absolutely nothing. At first I thought I would not be buying one because they came with some gaudy looking anodised aluminium coloured handles but Edwin Jagger thought of the old conservatives like me and made a stainless steel handled version. Done deal. How did Edwin Jagger get the total weight of the 3ONE6 so low? 75g, unheard of on a full stainless steel razor; the head is certainly light but the big reduction in weight has been in the handle. I cannot see how it comes apart (which is a good thing) but the handle has to be tubular to achieve that weight figure. May be good/ may be bad, time will tell. An end profile view of the plate emphasises just how close together the raised blade clamping sections of the plate are. This feature leaves a lot of unsupported blade out to the edge of the cap.

With about Karve CB #C level efficiency, maybe a little more, the shave is delivered in a fairly smooth manner and feels quite close. There is nothing special that stands out while using the 3ONE6 and in fact it feels quite bland but it does the job. In this razor the Astra SP’s performed poorly and did not compliment the 3ONE6 at all. The supplied Feather blade performed one hell of a lot better, so trials of different blades will assist to produce an improved shave. Following each shave I was left with an annoying irritation that disappeared after about two hours, nothing serious, just enough to let you know of its existence. There are a lot better razors around.

Blades Used – Astra SP and Feather

Material – 316 Stainless Steel

Blade Tab - Exposed

Weight – 75g

Head Width – 41.4mm

Handle Length – 89.4mm

Handle Diameter – 11.3mm

Availability – Shave Nation and various other outlets

Final Word – Another razor
 
Edwin Jagger 3ONE6 (UK)



There was a lot of hype about the 3ONE6 prior to its going on sale. Edwin Jagger had been teasing for some months prior, releasing sneak shots of parts of the razor that revealed absolutely nothing. At first I thought I would not be buying one because they came with some gaudy looking anodised aluminium coloured handles but Edwin Jagger thought of the old conservatives like me and made a stainless steel handled version. Done deal. How did Edwin Jagger get the total weight of the 3ONE6 so low? 75g, unheard of on a full stainless steel razor; the head is certainly light but the big reduction in weight has been in the handle. I cannot see how it comes apart (which is a good thing) but the handle has to be tubular to achieve that weight figure. May be good/ may be bad, time will tell. An end profile view of the plate emphasises just how close together the raised blade clamping sections of the plate are. This feature leaves a lot of unsupported blade out to the edge of the cap.

With about Karve CB #C level efficiency, maybe a little more, the shave is delivered in a fairly smooth manner and feels quite close. There is nothing special that stands out while using the 3ONE6 and in fact it feels quite bland but it does the job. In this razor the Astra SP’s performed poorly and did not compliment the 3ONE6 at all. The supplied Feather blade performed one hell of a lot better, so trials of different blades will assist to produce an improved shave. Following each shave I was left with an annoying irritation that disappeared after about two hours, nothing serious, just enough to let you know of its existence. There are a lot better razors around.

Blades Used – Astra SP and Feather

Material – 316 Stainless Steel

Blade Tab - Exposed

Weight – 75g

Head Width – 41.4mm

Handle Length – 89.4mm

Handle Diameter – 11.3mm

Availability – Shave Nation and various other outlets

Final Word – Another razor
What a shame as expected a decent efficient smooth razor from Edwin Jagger. Their normal offerings are great all rounders but with all these new 2018/19 smooth and efficient razors hitting the market you would think they'll nail it and release one similar.
The SS hollow sealed handle is a great idea to reduce the weight.
Shall be interesting to see other prospectives from more users.
Thanks again @Errol for keeping us up to date and informed. (y)
 
@Errol the new H&S is available now (with the stainless baseplate).
https://www.haircutandshaveco.com/products/haircut-shave-co-cnc-machined-double-edge-safety-razor
I am so tempted! Must try to resist.
Compared to the Karve SS OC I'm on the wait list for...is the H&S a better bet?
The Karve wins for adjustability with all those plates available.
The H&S is better looking, slimmer,and....?
Edit: I may have answered that last question myself...The Karve is $241NZ + shipping. The H&S is $345NZ + shipping. I can buy the Karve and an extra plate or two for the price of the H&S.

Forget the H&S, all sold out
 
Charcoal Goods, Gen 2, Stainless Steel Level #2 (USA)



This particular razor is from this year’s first release of Charcoal Goods’ new Gen 2 razors machined out of stainless steel. Only one combination was available in that release and all were fitted with a level #2 plate and the Torpedo 4” handle. It is defiantly not the most attractive handle ever released by Charcoal Goods but it was the handle that came fitted and will be retained for this review. An unusual feature noted with the knurling on the handle is that the lines are not straight; they are all over the place like a dog’s breakfast, now how did Brian do that? The new head oozes quality, just look at it from any angle and the attention to detail is very obvious where ever you look. This Gen 2 head is said to shave the same as the original Gen 1 heads but has less hard edges and the increased machining tolerances will alleviate any variances between razors. A bright burnished finish has been applied to the razor and this finish has certainly captured my heart.

There is nothing quite like the feel of a quality razor when it comes to delivering an excellent shave and the effective way the shave is delivered just has to be experienced to appreciate just how good this Charcoal Goods Gen 2 razor really is. Super smooth, close and with Karve CB #D plate efficiency this is a magnificent razor to use except for the one item I did not like, the handle; too long and too thin for its length. Thankfully Charcoal Goods has now released a range of impressively styled stainless steel handles for their Gen 2 SS razors. With a small amount of blade feel, this razor delivers with effortless performance.

Blades Used – Gillette Platinum and Kai

Material – 303 Stainless Steel

Blade Tab – Slightly Exposed

Weight – 113g

Head Width – 42.36mm

Handle Length – 101.6mm

Handle Diameter – 12.52mm

Availability – Charcoal Goods

Final Word – Effortless
 
Charcoal Goods, Gen 2, Stainless Steel Level #2 (USA)



This particular razor is from this year’s first release of Charcoal Goods’ new Gen 2 razors machined out of stainless steel. Only one combination was available in that release and all were fitted with a level #2 plate and the Torpedo 4” handle. It is defiantly not the most attractive handle ever released by Charcoal Goods but it was the handle that came fitted and will be retained for this review. An unusual feature noted with the knurling on the handle is that the lines are not straight; they are all over the place like a dog’s breakfast, now how did Brian do that? The new head oozes quality, just look at it from any angle and the attention to detail is very obvious where ever you look. This Gen 2 head is said to shave the same as the original Gen 1 heads but has less hard edges and the increased machining tolerances will alleviate any variances between razors. A bright burnished finish has been applied to the razor and this finish has certainly captured my heart.

There is nothing quite like the feel of a quality razor when it comes to delivering an excellent shave and the effective way the shave is delivered just has to be experienced to appreciate just how good this Charcoal Goods Gen 2 razor really is. Super smooth, close and with Karve CB #D plate efficiency this is a magnificent razor to use except for the one item I did not like, the handle; too long and too thin for its length. Thankfully Charcoal Goods has now released a range of impressively styled stainless steel handles for their Gen 2 SS razors. With a small amount of blade feel, this razor delivers with effortless performance.

Blades Used – Gillette Platinum and Kai

Material – 303 Stainless Steel

Blade Tab – Slightly Exposed

Weight – 113g

Head Width – 42.36mm

Handle Length – 101.6mm

Handle Diameter – 12.52mm

Availability – Charcoal Goods

Final Word – Effortless
Great review as always mate! CG has been on my radar for a long time. How does the lvl 1 plate compare to the karve plates in efficiency?
 
Great review as always mate! CG has been on my radar for a long time. How does the lvl 1 plate compare to the karve plates in efficiency?

It’s been a while since I used the CG lvl 1 so I’m guessing a bit when I say it’s about the same as Karve level #B. CG hasn’t released the lvl 1 plate for the Gen 2 stainless steel yet but there are per production photos on the Charcoal Goods web site. An interesting thing about the CG Gen 2 plates is that they all have different features.
 
Asylum Rx Single Edge (USA)



A couple of years ago, the result of my first match up went to the Asylum Rx; @Errol left badly cut and mentally scarred in the corner. I have admired the design of this razor since I first laid eyes on a photo of one but never purchased it because at that time I was not buying SE razors. When one became available on ebay from an Australian vendor I purchase it complete with Feather Professional Super blades. Being the only SE blade I had available at time and not knowing any better, I loaded one, and well, the rest is history. A bit of research reveals that there are more suitable blades available for the Rx so look out Asylum Rx; I’ve refined my technique, acquired some different blades so I’m primed and ready for the rematch.

From the Tradere inspired handle to those lovely flowing curves that lead to the head the Rx design is one elegantly sculptured work of art. Continuing the flowing theme in the design of this razor both sections of the head just blend into each other. It’s no wonder then that the Rx is my all time favourite razor design. Removing the handle allows the two sections of the head to open enough to facilitate blade loading without disassembling the head. The handle length listed below should be taken with a grain of salt because effectively some of the handle length has been included in the neck below the head. My Rx has a dull satin finish and the whole package oozes quality.

You would be quite wrong if you thought I was not going to treat this razor with respect, I’ve been bitten before and knew full well its capability. This razor is savage; there are no other words for it, but does this razor perform when loaded with milder AC blades. During the first shave I was very tentative, second shave not too tentative and by the third and fourth I had enough confidence to let the razor flow and that resulted in shaves that were smooth but ever so close with more than enough blade feel just to make it interesting. I even managed to escape the whole experience without any cuts but I’d be lying if I said there were no weepers; just the odd one early but even they disappeared as my confidence with the Rx grew. In the end I came away respecting the way the Rx operated but it would not be the razor of choice after a big night on the terps. Currently Asylum and Rocnel are in a joint partnership to produce a limited run of a milder version of the Rx (or whatever it is to be called).

Blades Used – Kai Captain Titan Mild and Schick Proline P-30

Material – 303 Stainless Steel

Weight – 109g

Head Width – 54.4mm

Handle Length – 82.5mm

Handle Diameter – 11.3

Availability – Out of production

Final Word – Treat with respect
 
Asylum Rx Single Edge (USA)



A couple of years ago, the result of my first match up went to the Asylum Rx; @Errol left badly cut and mentally scarred in the corner. I have admired the design of this razor since I first laid eyes on a photo of one but never purchased it because at that time I was not buying SE razors. When one became available on ebay from an Australian vendor I purchase it complete with Feather Professional Super blades. Being the only SE blade I had available at time and not knowing any better, I loaded one, and well, the rest is history. A bit of research reveals that there are more suitable blades available for the Rx so look out Asylum Rx; I’ve refined my technique, acquired some different blades so I’m primed and ready for the rematch.

From the Tradere inspired handle to those lovely flowing curves that lead to the head the Rx design is one elegantly sculptured work of art. Continuing the flowing theme in the design of this razor both sections of the head just blend into each other. It’s no wonder then that the Rx is my all time favourite razor design. Removing the handle allows the two sections of the head to open enough to facilitate blade loading without disassembling the head. The handle length listed below should be taken with a grain of salt because effectively some of the handle length has been included in the neck below the head. My Rx has a dull satin finish and the whole package oozes quality.

You would be quite wrong if you thought I was not going to treat this razor with respect, I’ve been bitten before and knew full well its capability. This razor is savage; there are no other words for it, but does this razor perform when loaded with milder AC blades. During the first shave I was very tentative, second shave not too tentative and by the third and fourth I had enough confidence to let the razor flow and that resulted in shaves that were smooth but ever so close with more than enough blade feel just to make it interesting. I even managed to escape the whole experience without any cuts but I’d be lying if I said there were no weepers; just the odd one early but even they disappeared as my confidence with the Rx grew. In the end I came away respecting the way the Rx operated but it would not be the razor of choice after a big night on the terps. Currently Asylum and Rocnel are in a joint partnership to produce a limited run of a milder version of the Rx (or whatever it is to be called).

Blades Used – Kai Captain Titan Mild and Schick Proline P-30

Material – 303 Stainless Steel

Weight – 109g

Head Width – 54.4mm

Handle Length – 82.5mm

Handle Diameter – 11.3

Availability – Out of production

Final Word – Treat with respect

Haha, reading this brings back memories of my 'training' with the Asylum Rx. I also had not done my research. If I had of I would have read that the blade recommendations did not include Feather Pro Supers which were what I had on hand and so proceeded down the path of chain saw massacre.:LOL:
The Kai Captain Titan Mild is my current preferred blade in this razor. The guarded AC blades are also a viable option with this razor. I love the razor but could not use it as a daily driver unless I stuck to one pass shaves. I read quite a few reviews prior to purchasing and did not see any warnings about aggressiveness. They were either a bunch of tuff buggers or were refusing to elaborate on any negative experiences. One helpful review though did suggest trying straight razor technique with the Asylum Rx which I did find helpful.
Your review pretty much nails it @Errol (y). Nice pic.
 
Mongoose Stainless Steel Single Edge Series 3 (USA)



Mongoose is a company that has quietly slipped away from the shaving scene in recent times; they were a small design company that outsource the manufacture of their products and distributed them exclusively through Maggards Razors. I’ve not used either of the earlier series of this razor but this Series 3 is said to have a slimmer head shape and hopefully should have all the bugs ironed out of it.

Effectively a three piece design, all parts of the Mongoose are certainly robust and solid with the majority of the weight seemingly to be in the handle. The head is block shaped with the cap having a chamfered edge leading down to the blade. There are two elongated blade posts formed into the cap so loading a blade was never a problem. An interesting twist (seemingly common with many SE razors) is that the centre post is a 5mm allen headed stud that has been threaded and locked into the cap for the handle to screw onto. Mongoose has presented this razor in a blemish free satin finish.

I was simply blown away by the delivered shave; super smooth, close and just a touch of blade feel. There is no doubt about it this is one very efficient razor, well in excess of Karve CB level #D plate level but it’s not over the top like the Rx was. I had that nagging feeling that even though this razor is so much more practical, aggressiveness wise, than the Rx that if I let my guard down I would pay the consequence. After such a pleasant shave, I’m now going to put the earlier Mongoose Stainless Steel razors on my search list.

Blades Used – Feather ProGuard and Feather Professional Blade

Material – Stainless Steel

Weight – 136g

Head Width – 52mm

Handle Length – 97.6mm

Handle Diameter – 12.8mm

Availability – Out of production

Final Word – Very impressive
 
Claymore Version 1 SE Razor (Scotland)



Fancy calling a razor a Claymore? Anyone who has spent time in the military will know that a Claymore is an anti personnel mine designed to maim and injure. Thankfully a bit of research reveals that a Claymore is also a type of sword so the blade connotation is used in that context, I hope. There have been three versions of the Claymore released and each is very different so I’ll look at each over the next three weeks. The only similarity between all three versions of the Claymores is that they all share the same handle design.

Claymore’s SE V1 is a three piece razor where both sections of the head are manufactured from sintered stainless steel and I’m not sure about the handle although it’s probably machined and sand blasted to match the finish on the head. Just like with the Mongoose an allen headless screw has been screwed into the cap to be used as the centre post and again there are two elongated blade posts.

In the hand this razor feels totally wrong, it’s very head heavy and is not even close to being balanced and to add to the woes the handle looks like it will not provide a positive grip. In use, the satin finish on the handle did provide a better grip than expected so in the end there was no problem. To the V1’s credit the efficiency of the shave is around the Karve CB #D plate level with the resultant shave being very close, very smooth and that little bit of blade feel helps, but.... There are a lot better razors out there.

Blades Used – Feather Professional and Schick Proline P-30

Material – Stainless Steel

Weight – 140g

Head Width – 50.2mm

Handle Length – 94.8mm

Handle Diameter – 12.6mm

Availability – Out of Production

Final Word – Average
 
Claymore Version 2 SE Razor (Scotland)



This is the first Claymore razor I purchased and was among the very last Claymore Version 2’s to be sold by Executive Shaving. There have been changes to the design of the V2 over the V1 but essentially it’s a three piece razor where the edges of the cap have been extended to cover the end of the bottom plate; it is still manufactured from sintered stainless steel, still uses the allen headless screw for the centre post and still uses the same design handle. Tolerances on all measurements of the head are very sloppy. There is a lug on the cap that the allen screw threads into but the corresponding hole in the plate is oversize allowing the whole assembly to move around till the handle is tightened down. Once tightened though, alignment was never an issue. While only marginally lighter than the V1 Claymore the whole razor feels far better balanced. I’m of the opinion that placing the pickup for handle further to the rear of the head has assisted the balance immensely.

Talk about not being prepared! After my experience with the Claymore Version 1, I must admit to expecting more of the same. How wrong can one be; the Version 2 was trying to shave about five layers below the skin and in fact did. This is the most aggressive razor I’ve ever had the displeasure to use. It is certainly more aggressive than the Asylum Rx and to make things even more attention grabbing it has way too much blade feel. When you look at the Asylum Rx or the King Cobra there is a lot of the blade exposed but the Claymore Version 2 does not display what looks to be an excessive amount of blade, very sneaky. Another interesting observation is that this would be the loudest razor I’ve used where the sound of every whisker being cut is not only heard but is somehow amplified through the head. Second shave and I’ll take it very easy, use very light pressure and short strokes; that didn’t work either and I still came away with pieces of flesh missing. Not being into self mutilation I raised the white flag after the second shave; I know when a razor is too aggressive for me and this one certainly is.

Blades Used – Kai Captain Titan Mild

Material – Stainless Steel

Weight – 135g

Head Width – 53.6mm

Handle Length – 95.43mm

Handle Diameter – 12.68mm

Availability – Out of Production

Final Word – Ridiculously aggressive
 
Claymore Version 2 SE Razor (Scotland)



This is the first Claymore razor I purchased and was among the very last Claymore Version 2’s to be sold by Executive Shaving. There have been changes to the design of the V2 over the V1 but essentially it’s a three piece razor where the edges of the cap have been extended to cover the end of the bottom plate; it is still manufactured from sintered stainless steel, still uses the allen headless screw for the centre post and still uses the same design handle. Tolerances on all measurements of the head are very sloppy. There is a lug on the cap that the allen screw threads into but the corresponding hole in the plate is oversize allowing the whole assembly to move around till the handle is tightened down. Once tightened though, alignment was never an issue. While only marginally lighter than the V1 Claymore the whole razor feels far better balanced. I’m of the opinion that placing the pickup for handle further to the rear of the head has assisted the balance immensely.

Talk about not being prepared! After my experience with the Claymore Version 1, I must admit to expecting more of the same. How wrong can one be; the Version 2 was trying to shave about five layers below the skin and in fact did. This is the most aggressive razor I’ve ever had the displeasure to use. It is certainly more aggressive than the Asylum Rx and to make things even more attention grabbing it has way too much blade feel. When you look at the Asylum Rx or the King Cobra there is a lot of the blade exposed but the Claymore Version 2 does not display what looks to be an excessive amount of blade, very sneaky. Another interesting observation is that this would be the loudest razor I’ve used where the sound of every whisker being cut is not only heard but is somehow amplified through the head. Second shave and I’ll take it very easy, use very light pressure and short strokes; that didn’t work either and I still came away with pieces of flesh missing. Not being into self mutilation I raised the white flag after the second shave; I know when a razor is too aggressive for me and this one certainly is.

Blades Used – Kai Captain Titan Mild

Material – Stainless Steel

Weight – 135g

Head Width – 53.6mm

Handle Length – 95.43mm

Handle Diameter – 12.68mm

Availability – Out of Production

Final Word – Ridiculously aggressive

Thanks for the review @Errol . Enjoyable and informative as usual. I’m really surprised to learn there’s an SE out there more aggressive than the Asylum Rx. I was wondering about the Claymore a year or two ago when I was shopping for the Colonial General and the Asylum.
 
Claymore Version 3 SE Razor (Scotland)



Only days after purchasing the Claymore Version 2 razor I checked the Executive Shaving web site again and the Version 3 was available. These were the first 10 razors made and were said to have blemishes on the finish but I decided to purchase one anyhow. On checking the razor, I could not find anything wrong with the finish other than machining marks, however the cap does not sit even on the plate when simply assembled. Thankfully there is enough play in the centre hole of the plate to line everything up if the two ends are squeezed together. I now understand that although the Executive Shaving website says ‘Out of Stock’ they will remain out of stock because a machine shop to do the manufacturing cannot be found, therefore my Version 3 remains one of only 10 made.

In a departure from the manufacturing methods employed with the previous Claymores, the V3 is machined from solid stainless steel and the centre post is machine formed. The whole razor is agricultural but the tolerance on the machining of parts is generally close and therefore the fit is so much better than the V2. Machine marks are visible over most of the head but they don’t look out of place. Being an old fitter and turner I don’t mind seeing machine marks if no attempt has been made to polish them out. If machine marks have been polished then I don’t want to see any. Proudly displayed on the back of the plate is the Executive Shaving emblem and Made in Scotland. It’s a pity that the V3 has stumbled because not only is it the lightest of the Claymore family, but in my opinion it is by far the best looking of the three Claymores. In the hand the balance is reasonable and the V3 feels comfortable so it’s so far so good.

With such a huge variation in efficiency levels between the V1 and the V2, I had no idea what to expect with this razor but I was pretty confident that the V3 would not be more aggressive than the V2 though. After the first tentative stroke there was still skin left on my face so that’s a blessing and that is a good way to start a shave. Aggression wise, the V3 is more aggressive than the V1 but below that of the Asylum Rx. I cannot say the first shave was pleasant because I was trying to navigate the razor around the scabs of my face where there were still pieces of skin missing from the V2’s efforts: I managed to get through unscathed. During the second and third shaves I still had to dodge a scarred section of my chin but the remaining shaves demonstrated that this razor is smooth and shaves very close. All up the V3 is not a bad razor to use and by far and away the best of the Claymores.

Blades Used – Feather ProGuard and Feather Professional Blade

Material – Stainless Steel

Weight – 130g

Head Width – 51.1mm

Handle Length – 94.5mm

Handle Diameter – 12.7mm

Availability – Not in production – Executive Shaving

Final Word – An honest performer
 
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