February 2022 SHAVING Acquisitions

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Holiday said:
They cleaned up well :)(y) What's your cleaning method?
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0000 steel wool, paddle pop stick and autosol. Removes all the rust but doesn’t make it look brand new, it’s best for hollow ground razors as there isn’t much metal. I might go a 400, 800, 1200, 2000 wet/dry for 1/4 and wedges as there is more meat to play with but I’m not a fan of cutting out all the pitting, just with getting ride of the rust. I’m a big fan of wabi sabi for my old stuff. It’s made it this far and it should show it. Well unless is was NOS.
 
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Might be off to Bunnings for 0000 steel wool and Autosol soon! Any other tips @Ebonysw45 ?
 
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So I got this Suribachi, a Japanese grinding bowl which I thought would be great for lathering with the ridges. Turns out the stated measurements were off so it's smaller and crucially, shorter than I anticipated. However I'll still give it a go and try not to make a mess of the bathroom.
 
bernie01 said:
7ZedJrG.jpg

Might be off to Bunnings for 0000 steel wool and Autosol soon! Any other tips @Ebonysw45 ?
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For the wonder a little masking tape over the etching if you have to do that side. I can't quite tell. But that leads me to the response for @Holiday. For the Bengall it was no problem, the etching was very deep and no gold. When you have shallow etching or a gold wash then you will have to tape it or get comfortable with loosing the etch/gold. I've only had to do this to 1 razor as the rust was too widespread to save the gold. Usually I hand polish with a Q tip around those parts and have been known to use a tooth pick to do the area inside the gold or etching. Forgot to say if your not removing the scales, also tape then at the pivot end so you don't damage them with wet/dry or the steel wool. I usually apply a little of the autosol or brasso to the steel wool, or even just smear a little on the steel. I would recommend grabbing some nitrile gloves as well and make sure your breadknife the blade on something like glass to make sure its blunt.
 
neongas said:
4cFV0lA.jpeg


So I got this Suribachi, a Japanese grinding bowl which I thought would be great for lathering with the ridges. Turns out the stated measurements were off so it's smaller and crucially, shorter than I anticipated. However I'll still give it a go and try not to make a mess of the bathroom.
Click to expand...
let us know how you go. I have been considering one for a while but being a face latherer the 10+ different lather bowls I already have do not get much use.
I've read they can be a bit harsh on the brush
 
Ebonysw45 said:
For the wonder a little masking tape over the etching if you have to do that side. I can't quite tell. But that leads me to the response for @Holiday. For the Bengall it was no problem, the etching was very deep and no gold. When you have shallow etching or a gold wash then you will have to tape it or get comfortable with loosing the etch/gold. I've only had to do this to 1 razor as the rust was too widespread to save the gold. Usually I hand polish with a Q tip around those parts and have been known to use a tooth pick to do the area inside the gold or etching. Forgot to say if your not removing the scales, also tape then at the pivot end so you don't damage them with wet/dry or the steel wool. I usually apply a little of the autosol or brasso to the steel wool, or even just smear a little on the steel. I would recommend grabbing some nitrile gloves as well and make sure your breadknife the blade on something like glass to make sure its blunt.
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Cheers @Ebonysw45 while you are keeping it simple and wabi sabi it also sounds like you are putting more effort into it than I have been. Will up my game and spend a bit more time polishing and the finer detail.
 
Holiday said:
I've read they can be a bit harsh on the brush
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I wonder how. I can’t imagine it being any worse than one exerting too much pressure while lathering? Or is it because of the “bumpiness” causing the bristles to vibrate too much in the knot? :unsure:
 
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Holiday said:
Cheers @Ebonysw45 while you are keeping it simple and wabi sabi it also sounds like you are putting more effort into it than I have been. Will up my game and spend a bit more time polishing and the finer detail.
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No problem. It depends on the razor, I might get a number of blades cheapish but then have to put elbow grease and time into getting them up to scratch. I don't mind, its rewarding to bring them back to life. Sometimes Im lucky and it requires a quick rub with a piece of cloth and autosol with 10 minutes on the hones and Im good. Some razors take hours so your'e really not saving any money when you factor in time to restore and hone. For example 3 of the razors I posted had chips that I had to remove no big deal but it does take a little more time to hone them back. As an aside I now hone with 1 layer of kapton instead of 3M SUPER 88 unless there are chips etc then I start with the 3m and then kapton to finish.
 
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neongas said:
I wonder how. I can’t imagine it being any worse than one exerting too much pressure while lathering? Or is it because of the “bumpiness” causing the bristles to vibrate too much in the knot? :unsure:
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I assumed they have sharp ridges intended for mashing herbs and spices into a sauce.
 
Holiday said:
let us know how you go. I have been considering one for a while but being a face latherer the 10+ different lather bowls I already have do not get much use.
I've read they can be a bit harsh on the brush
Click to expand...
A while back, I considered getting more bowls made by some more of the amazing potters here in Northern TAS, but even my Jilli Spencer bowl is getting little use nowadays except as a place to dump my lathered brush while I'm busy with the actual shaving. Also, I worry that if I get more, Mrs Gargravarr will just appropriate them, and I'll never see them again. That's what happened to my Captain's Choice bowl. :(
 
Gargravarr said:
A while back, I considered getting more bowls made by some more of the amazing potters here in Northern TAS, but even my Jilli Spencer bowl is getting little use nowadays except as a place to dump my lathered brush while I'm busy with the actual shaving. Also, I worry that if I get more, Mrs Gargravarr will just appropriate them, and I'll never see them again. That's what happened to my Captain's Choice bowl. :(
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Have to be careful when you buy nice things, my original bowls now being used for earrings and other assorted wifey doodads on the bedside table
 
Ebonysw45 said:
0000 steel wool, paddle pop stick and autosol. Removes all the rust but doesn’t make it look brand new, it’s best for hollow ground razors as there isn’t much metal. I might go a 400, 800, 1200, 2000 wet/dry for 1/4 and wedges as there is more meat to play with but I’m not a fan of cutting out all the pitting, just with getting ride of the rust. I’m a big fan of wabi sabi for my old stuff. It’s made it this far and it should show it. Well unless is was NOS.
Click to expand...

I did this to my golf clubs few weeks back. They looked quite bad and at times considered tossing them out but got out some fine steel wool and they honestly scrubbed up nearly as new, I was quite suprised.
 
neongas said:
4cFV0lA.jpeg


So I got this Suribachi, a Japanese grinding bowl which I thought would be great for lathering with the ridges. Turns out the stated measurements were off so it's smaller and crucially, shorter than I anticipated. However I'll still give it a go and try not to make a mess of the bathroom.
Click to expand...

if not stick to face lathering mate. I used to use shave bowls early on in my DE adventures but now for me, nothing beats a nice face lathering. You enjoy the scent of the soap more plus prepare the face better for shaving IMHO
 
New arrival from Homelike Shaving the AL Baikal (Rockwell 6 look-a-like). Other than, for me, the much desired lighter weight, 48gm, there is also a number of other differences over my Rockwell 6s: more accurate slot pins to align blade, no blade overhang, very grippy handle, only two plates offered giving adjustment 1 to 4, satin metal finish and sharper edge finish.

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Today's "cargo". I've been thinking about the Sabre for a while, and now that I'm no longer on sabbatical, I can indulge. The machined finish from the factory is definitely that. I lost no time giving it a rub-down with a strip of 2400-grit W&D to get rid of any grittiness on all surfaces except those adjacent to the blade. Also relieved the sharpness of the corners just a tad. No more than 10 minutes work, tops. I'll give it a spin tomorrow...
 
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