Weekly Razor Review

REX Ambassador Adjustable – 2019 Release (USA)



I was sweating on the annual Black Friday sales last November so I could pick up the latest Ambassador at a better price than is usually available so when I was able to purchase at 20% off I jumped in a grabbed one; I should have waited though because they eventually came down to 30% off. There have been upgrades to the REX over time and this one is their latest and greatest. With the first release REX Ambassador and this one side by side there are quite a few small differences apparent:
  • The thickness of the bottom section of the plate has been increased.
  • The flange on the bottom plate where the setting numbers is printed is shorter.
  • The length of the cap securing screw is shorter and the knurling finer.
  • The adjuster ring knurl is also finer.
  • The overall length of the handle is shorter.
  • All markings have been done by laser.
  • There is a weight increase.
With that amount of external changes there are sure to have been internal changes to the mechanism that are not visible without stripping the razors. There was no reason to strip the razors so I did not play around trying to work out how. Overall, the main features of the razor remain the same as the REX first release but what I’m most interested in is how the razor feels and performs compared to the original. Straight up, the adjusting knob is noticeably harder to turn than the original so I’m assuming there is a heavier duty plate spring is fitted. Again, I decided to kick off on setting #3.
  • #1 – Useless
  • #2 – Not much better
  • #3 – Karve CB Level B
  • #4 – Karve CB Level C
  • #5 – Karve CB Level D plus
  • #6 - A bit savage
Maybe people are only supposed to own one REX Adjustable and not compare the two versions because this razor produced a totally different shaving experience to its predecessor. It would be easy to be caught out thinking that both versions are going to perform the same, I know I did. REX have recalibrated the efficiency range to produce a razor that is more user friendly at the higher settings. Settings #4.5 was a very usable settings and I enjoyed that little bit of blade feel; go higher and the blade feel really started to make itself felt. Shaving with this REX Adjustable somehow felt different to the early REX; different; not better; not worse. One constant was just how smooth the REX shaves and how close a shave can be.

I’m delighted that I purchased this, the 2019 REX Ambassador Adjustable, and was able to compare it and the first released REX Ambassador version because I did not expect such major differences in the way the two razors perform. They are two very good but totally different razors; REX Ambassador by name only.

Adjustment Range – #1 through to #6 with a mid-position dot
Blades Used – Ladas and Astra Blue
Material – Stainless Steel
Blade Tab - Covered
Weight – 108g
Head Width – 44.08mm
Handle Length – 78.67mm
Handle Diameter – 12.95mm
Availability – Razor Emporium
Final Word – Commendable
 
Janus 3000 - Toggle Adjustable – First Release (USA)



I have certainly seen photos of the Gillette Toggle but I’ve never held one, therefore I will be testing the Janus Toggle Adjustable as just another adjustable razor, albeit machined from stainless steel and fitted with a toggle to open and close the blade doors. Janus themselves describe this razor as the most iconic and most complicated safety razor ever created. Consisting of 35 individual pieces, one can only imagine the frustrations of trying to get all those parts working in harmony and keeping these parts synchronized is now my worry. Janus is a new razor manufacturer who, this year, released their first all stainless steel adjustable razor utilizing a toggle principal of operation for the blade doors similar to the iconic Gillette Toggle from the late 1950’s. I’d been following the design, the trials and the tribulations of this razor through monthly news letters from Janus since I first got wind of its gestation. Very early in discussions, I put my name down for my favoured #46 and was rewarded by being allocated the #46 razor. It’s a good thing my favourite number is not much higher because in the first release there was only 51 razors.

Accompanying the razor is an Owners Handbook detailing just about every detail you would ever want to know about the razor. Being totally foreign to the idea of using a toggle to open the doors, I chose to play around for a while to both see how everything operated and check out the quality. There are three positions for the toggle:
  • Straight - in line with the handle – doors fully closed
  • Across the handle – doors fully open
  • A mid way position where the pressure is taken off the blade for rinsing
I was surprised (well, I didn’t expect) the amount of pressure required to move the toggle to close the doors but I soon become accustomed to the idea of pulling down on the toggle while rotating it. That took a lot of pressure off the toggle itself and made the operation one whole lot smoother. During the review the toggle system worked flawlessly but by its very nature is a somewhat harsh action. When the toggle is rotated there is no progressive closure/ opening of the blade doors; they were either opened or closed.

What a nightmare it must have been to machine those intricate parts and then assemble them to form the razor as we see it. Machine marks are visible on the flats of the toggle and even they don’t look too much out of place. Circumferential and longitudinal grooves have been machined into the handle but the resultant blocks don’t have crisp edges therefore the grip afforded is not as good as other razors employing this style of grip. A quality machine polished finish completes the razor and it does sparkle. When the doors are fully closed there is the faintest hair line between visible them; a compliment to both the design and the machinist skills. Odd numbers #1 through to #9 are engraved on the adjusting ring with a line represents the even numbers. There is also a positive click for each setting.
Not erring on the side of caution my first shave commenced on setting #5.
  • #3 - Karve CB Level B
  • #4 – Karve CB Level C
  • #5 – Karve CB Level D plus
  • #7 – Getting Savage
From the very first stroke it was evident that there was an overabundance of blade feel present. I like a bit of blade feel but this amount is well above my comfort zone. For the best part of the day following the first shave my neck felt like someone had applied a blow torch to it. After the second torturous shave, I’d had more than enough of excessive blade exposure and packed the Janus away. Setting #7 was as high as I dared to go and spent the majority of the time with the Janus on settings #3 and #4. At any of the settings the shave delivered was certainly close and anything but smooth. During the shave it was impossible to rotate the setting dial with bare (damp) fingers, I had to use a towel to get grip on the dial and the ‘T’ of the toggle in the other hand. If there is ever another Janus razor it is hoped that the amount of blade feel is reduced considerably and that the milling on the handle retains some grip.

There is no doubt that using a toggle to open and close the blade doors is unique, but is it any better? I certainly enjoyed the pleasure afforded by using the toggle and would jump at the chance to obtain another toggle operated razor. For as good as the toggle is though, I feel the good old twist to open system to be a superior system to open and close the blade doors; the twist to open system is just so simple and much more relaxing to use.

Adjustment Range – #1 through to #9 with a positive click
Blades Used – Ladas
Material – 316 Stainless Steel
Blade Tab – Covered
Weight – 97g
Head Width – 45.93mm
Handle Length – 92.65mm
Handle Diameter – 12.45mm
Availability – Janus
Final Word – Not for me
 
Errol said:
Janus 3000 - Toggle Adjustable – First Release (USA)



I have certainly seen photos of the Gillette Toggle but I’ve never held one, therefore I will be testing the Janus Toggle Adjustable as just another adjustable razor, albeit machined from stainless steel and fitted with a toggle to open and close the blade doors. Janus themselves describe this razor as the most iconic and most complicated safety razor ever created. Consisting of 35 individual pieces, one can only imagine the frustrations of trying to get all those parts working in harmony and keeping these parts synchronized is now my worry. Janus is a new razor manufacturer who, this year, released their first all stainless steel adjustable razor utilizing a toggle principal of operation for the blade doors similar to the iconic Gillette Toggle from the late 1950’s. I’d been following the design, the trials and the tribulations of this razor through monthly news letters from Janus since I first got wind of its gestation. Very early in discussions, I put my name down for my favoured #46 and was rewarded by being allocated the #46 razor. It’s a good thing my favourite number is not much higher because in the first release there was only 51 razors.

Accompanying the razor is an Owners Handbook detailing just about every detail you would ever want to know about the razor. Being totally foreign to the idea of using a toggle to open the doors, I chose to play around for a while to both see how everything operated and check out the quality. There are three positions for the toggle:
  • Straight - in line with the handle – doors fully closed
  • Across the handle – doors fully open
  • A mid way position where the pressure is taken off the blade for rinsing
I was surprised (well, I didn’t expect) the amount of pressure required to move the toggle to close the doors but I soon become accustomed to the idea of pulling down on the toggle while rotating it. That took a lot of pressure off the toggle itself and made the operation one whole lot smoother. During the review the toggle system worked flawlessly but by its very nature is a somewhat harsh action. When the toggle is rotated there is no progressive closure/ opening of the blade doors; they were either opened or closed.

What a nightmare it must have been to machine those intricate parts and then assemble them to form the razor as we see it. Machine marks are visible on the flats of the toggle and even they don’t look too much out of place. Circumferential and longitudinal grooves have been machined into the handle but the resultant blocks don’t have crisp edges therefore the grip afforded is not as good as other razors employing this style of grip. A quality machine polished finish completes the razor and it does sparkle. When the doors are fully closed there is the faintest hair line between visible them; a compliment to both the design and the machinist skills. Odd numbers #1 through to #9 are engraved on the adjusting ring with a line represents the even numbers. There is also a positive click for each setting.
Not erring on the side of caution my first shave commenced on setting #5.
  • #3 - Karve CB Level B
  • #4 – Karve CB Level C
  • #5 – Karve CB Level D plus
  • #7 – Getting Savage
From the very first stroke it was evident that there was an overabundance of blade feel present. I like a bit of blade feel but this amount is well above my comfort zone. For the best part of the day following the first shave my neck felt like someone had applied a blow torch to it. After the second torturous shave, I’d had more than enough of excessive blade exposure and packed the Janus away. Setting #7 was as high as I dared to go and spent the majority of the time with the Janus on settings #3 and #4. At any of the settings the shave delivered was certainly close and anything but smooth. During the shave it was impossible to rotate the setting dial with bare (damp) fingers, I had to use a towel to get grip on the dial and the ‘T’ of the toggle in the other hand. If there is ever another Janus razor it is hoped that the amount of blade feel is reduced considerably and that the milling on the handle retains some grip.

There is no doubt that using a toggle to open and close the blade doors is unique, but is it any better? I certainly enjoyed the pleasure afforded by using the toggle and would jump at the chance to obtain another toggle operated razor. For as good as the toggle is though, I feel the good old twist to open system to be a superior system to open and close the blade doors; the twist to open system is just so simple and much more relaxing to use.

Adjustment Range – #1 through to #9 with a positive click
Blades Used – Ladas
Material – 316 Stainless Steel
Blade Tab – Covered
Weight – 97g
Head Width – 45.93mm
Handle Length – 92.65mm
Handle Diameter – 12.45mm
Availability – Janus
Final Word – Not for me
Click to expand...

Another fantastic review mate!
 
Errol said:
Janus 3000 - Toggle Adjustable – First Release (USA)



I have certainly seen photos of the Gillette Toggle but I’ve never held one, therefore I will be testing the Janus Toggle Adjustable as just another adjustable razor, albeit machined from stainless steel and fitted with a toggle to open and close the blade doors. Janus themselves describe this razor as the most iconic and most complicated safety razor ever created. Consisting of 35 individual pieces, one can only imagine the frustrations of trying to get all those parts working in harmony and keeping these parts synchronized is now my worry. Janus is a new razor manufacturer who, this year, released their first all stainless steel adjustable razor utilizing a toggle principal of operation for the blade doors similar to the iconic Gillette Toggle from the late 1950’s. I’d been following the design, the trials and the tribulations of this razor through monthly news letters from Janus since I first got wind of its gestation. Very early in discussions, I put my name down for my favoured #46 and was rewarded by being allocated the #46 razor. It’s a good thing my favourite number is not much higher because in the first release there was only 51 razors.

Accompanying the razor is an Owners Handbook detailing just about every detail you would ever want to know about the razor. Being totally foreign to the idea of using a toggle to open the doors, I chose to play around for a while to both see how everything operated and check out the quality. There are three positions for the toggle:
  • Straight - in line with the handle – doors fully closed
  • Across the handle – doors fully open
  • A mid way position where the pressure is taken off the blade for rinsing
I was surprised (well, I didn’t expect) the amount of pressure required to move the toggle to close the doors but I soon become accustomed to the idea of pulling down on the toggle while rotating it. That took a lot of pressure off the toggle itself and made the operation one whole lot smoother. During the review the toggle system worked flawlessly but by its very nature is a somewhat harsh action. When the toggle is rotated there is no progressive closure/ opening of the blade doors; they were either opened or closed.

What a nightmare it must have been to machine those intricate parts and then assemble them to form the razor as we see it. Machine marks are visible on the flats of the toggle and even they don’t look too much out of place. Circumferential and longitudinal grooves have been machined into the handle but the resultant blocks don’t have crisp edges therefore the grip afforded is not as good as other razors employing this style of grip. A quality machine polished finish completes the razor and it does sparkle. When the doors are fully closed there is the faintest hair line between visible them; a compliment to both the design and the machinist skills. Odd numbers #1 through to #9 are engraved on the adjusting ring with a line represents the even numbers. There is also a positive click for each setting.
Not erring on the side of caution my first shave commenced on setting #5.
  • #3 - Karve CB Level B
  • #4 – Karve CB Level C
  • #5 – Karve CB Level D plus
  • #7 – Getting Savage
From the very first stroke it was evident that there was an overabundance of blade feel present. I like a bit of blade feel but this amount is well above my comfort zone. For the best part of the day following the first shave my neck felt like someone had applied a blow torch to it. After the second torturous shave, I’d had more than enough of excessive blade exposure and packed the Janus away. Setting #7 was as high as I dared to go and spent the majority of the time with the Janus on settings #3 and #4. At any of the settings the shave delivered was certainly close and anything but smooth. During the shave it was impossible to rotate the setting dial with bare (damp) fingers, I had to use a towel to get grip on the dial and the ‘T’ of the toggle in the other hand. If there is ever another Janus razor it is hoped that the amount of blade feel is reduced considerably and that the milling on the handle retains some grip.

There is no doubt that using a toggle to open and close the blade doors is unique, but is it any better? I certainly enjoyed the pleasure afforded by using the toggle and would jump at the chance to obtain another toggle operated razor. For as good as the toggle is though, I feel the good old twist to open system to be a superior system to open and close the blade doors; the twist to open system is just so simple and much more relaxing to use.

Adjustment Range – #1 through to #9 with a positive click
Blades Used – Ladas
Material – 316 Stainless Steel
Blade Tab – Covered
Weight – 97g
Head Width – 45.93mm
Handle Length – 92.65mm
Handle Diameter – 12.45mm
Availability – Janus
Final Word – Not for me
Click to expand...
Been following the progress of this razor for sometime, so very happy to have your review. Know how much work went into this razor, so hoping he's able to revise and get it right moving forward.

Great review as always mate
 
Korbz said:
Been following the progress of this razor for sometime, so very happy to have your review. Know how much work went into this razor, so hoping he's able to revise and get it right moving forward.

Great review as always mate
Click to expand...
Reading the feedback it suggests that the initial prototype version was better and whether it was feedback or peer pressure, the final version ended up as a disappointment which is a real shame as it looks truly unique. Not sure whether the maker can justify the costs in making the necessary tweeks to reproduce an updated version but wish them success.
 
Errol said:
Janus 3000 - Toggle Adjustable – First Release (USA)



I have certainly seen photos of the Gillette Toggle but I’ve never held one, therefore I will be testing the Janus Toggle Adjustable as just another adjustable razor, albeit machined from stainless steel and fitted with a toggle to open and close the blade doors. Janus themselves describe this razor as the most iconic and most complicated safety razor ever created. Consisting of 35 individual pieces, one can only imagine the frustrations of trying to get all those parts working in harmony and keeping these parts synchronized is now my worry. Janus is a new razor manufacturer who, this year, released their first all stainless steel adjustable razor utilizing a toggle principal of operation for the blade doors similar to the iconic Gillette Toggle from the late 1950’s. I’d been following the design, the trials and the tribulations of this razor through monthly news letters from Janus since I first got wind of its gestation. Very early in discussions, I put my name down for my favoured #46 and was rewarded by being allocated the #46 razor. It’s a good thing my favourite number is not much higher because in the first release there was only 51 razors.

Accompanying the razor is an Owners Handbook detailing just about every detail you would ever want to know about the razor. Being totally foreign to the idea of using a toggle to open the doors, I chose to play around for a while to both see how everything operated and check out the quality. There are three positions for the toggle:
  • Straight - in line with the handle – doors fully closed
  • Across the handle – doors fully open
  • A mid way position where the pressure is taken off the blade for rinsing
I was surprised (well, I didn’t expect) the amount of pressure required to move the toggle to close the doors but I soon become accustomed to the idea of pulling down on the toggle while rotating it. That took a lot of pressure off the toggle itself and made the operation one whole lot smoother. During the review the toggle system worked flawlessly but by its very nature is a somewhat harsh action. When the toggle is rotated there is no progressive closure/ opening of the blade doors; they were either opened or closed.

What a nightmare it must have been to machine those intricate parts and then assemble them to form the razor as we see it. Machine marks are visible on the flats of the toggle and even they don’t look too much out of place. Circumferential and longitudinal grooves have been machined into the handle but the resultant blocks don’t have crisp edges therefore the grip afforded is not as good as other razors employing this style of grip. A quality machine polished finish completes the razor and it does sparkle. When the doors are fully closed there is the faintest hair line between visible them; a compliment to both the design and the machinist skills. Odd numbers #1 through to #9 are engraved on the adjusting ring with a line represents the even numbers. There is also a positive click for each setting.
Not erring on the side of caution my first shave commenced on setting #5.
  • #3 - Karve CB Level B
  • #4 – Karve CB Level C
  • #5 – Karve CB Level D plus
  • #7 – Getting Savage
From the very first stroke it was evident that there was an overabundance of blade feel present. I like a bit of blade feel but this amount is well above my comfort zone. For the best part of the day following the first shave my neck felt like someone had applied a blow torch to it. After the second torturous shave, I’d had more than enough of excessive blade exposure and packed the Janus away. Setting #7 was as high as I dared to go and spent the majority of the time with the Janus on settings #3 and #4. At any of the settings the shave delivered was certainly close and anything but smooth. During the shave it was impossible to rotate the setting dial with bare (damp) fingers, I had to use a towel to get grip on the dial and the ‘T’ of the toggle in the other hand. If there is ever another Janus razor it is hoped that the amount of blade feel is reduced considerably and that the milling on the handle retains some grip.

There is no doubt that using a toggle to open and close the blade doors is unique, but is it any better? I certainly enjoyed the pleasure afforded by using the toggle and would jump at the chance to obtain another toggle operated razor. For as good as the toggle is though, I feel the good old twist to open system to be a superior system to open and close the blade doors; the twist to open system is just so simple and much more relaxing to use.

Adjustment Range – #1 through to #9 with a positive click
Blades Used – Ladas
Material – 316 Stainless Steel
Blade Tab – Covered
Weight – 97g
Head Width – 45.93mm
Handle Length – 92.65mm
Handle Diameter – 12.45mm
Availability – Janus
Final Word – Not for me
Click to expand...

Rabid Badger said:
$500 !!

Click to expand...
Looks like $500 USD that’s about $705 AUD plus GST tax’s

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Errol said:
Janus 3000 - Toggle Adjustable – First Release (USA)



I have certainly seen photos of the Gillette Toggle but I’ve never held one, therefore I will be testing the Janus Toggle Adjustable as just another adjustable razor, albeit machined from stainless steel and fitted with a toggle to open and close the blade doors. Janus themselves describe this razor as the most iconic and most complicated safety razor ever created. Consisting of 35 individual pieces, one can only imagine the frustrations of trying to get all those parts working in harmony and keeping these parts synchronized is now my worry. Janus is a new razor manufacturer who, this year, released their first all stainless steel adjustable razor utilizing a toggle principal of operation for the blade doors similar to the iconic Gillette Toggle from the late 1950’s. I’d been following the design, the trials and the tribulations of this razor through monthly news letters from Janus since I first got wind of its gestation. Very early in discussions, I put my name down for my favoured #46 and was rewarded by being allocated the #46 razor. It’s a good thing my favourite number is not much higher because in the first release there was only 51 razors.

Accompanying the razor is an Owners Handbook detailing just about every detail you would ever want to know about the razor. Being totally foreign to the idea of using a toggle to open the doors, I chose to play around for a while to both see how everything operated and check out the quality. There are three positions for the toggle:
  • Straight - in line with the handle – doors fully closed
  • Across the handle – doors fully open
  • A mid way position where the pressure is taken off the blade for rinsing
I was surprised (well, I didn’t expect) the amount of pressure required to move the toggle to close the doors but I soon become accustomed to the idea of pulling down on the toggle while rotating it. That took a lot of pressure off the toggle itself and made the operation one whole lot smoother. During the review the toggle system worked flawlessly but by its very nature is a somewhat harsh action. When the toggle is rotated there is no progressive closure/ opening of the blade doors; they were either opened or closed.

What a nightmare it must have been to machine those intricate parts and then assemble them to form the razor as we see it. Machine marks are visible on the flats of the toggle and even they don’t look too much out of place. Circumferential and longitudinal grooves have been machined into the handle but the resultant blocks don’t have crisp edges therefore the grip afforded is not as good as other razors employing this style of grip. A quality machine polished finish completes the razor and it does sparkle. When the doors are fully closed there is the faintest hair line between visible them; a compliment to both the design and the machinist skills. Odd numbers #1 through to #9 are engraved on the adjusting ring with a line represents the even numbers. There is also a positive click for each setting.
Not erring on the side of caution my first shave commenced on setting #5.
  • #3 - Karve CB Level B
  • #4 – Karve CB Level C
  • #5 – Karve CB Level D plus
  • #7 – Getting Savage
From the very first stroke it was evident that there was an overabundance of blade feel present. I like a bit of blade feel but this amount is well above my comfort zone. For the best part of the day following the first shave my neck felt like someone had applied a blow torch to it. After the second torturous shave, I’d had more than enough of excessive blade exposure and packed the Janus away. Setting #7 was as high as I dared to go and spent the majority of the time with the Janus on settings #3 and #4. At any of the settings the shave delivered was certainly close and anything but smooth. During the shave it was impossible to rotate the setting dial with bare (damp) fingers, I had to use a towel to get grip on the dial and the ‘T’ of the toggle in the other hand. If there is ever another Janus razor it is hoped that the amount of blade feel is reduced considerably and that the milling on the handle retains some grip.

There is no doubt that using a toggle to open and close the blade doors is unique, but is it any better? I certainly enjoyed the pleasure afforded by using the toggle and would jump at the chance to obtain another toggle operated razor. For as good as the toggle is though, I feel the good old twist to open system to be a superior system to open and close the blade doors; the twist to open system is just so simple and much more relaxing to use.

Adjustment Range – #1 through to #9 with a positive click
Blades Used – Ladas
Material – 316 Stainless Steel
Blade Tab – Covered
Weight – 97g
Head Width – 45.93mm
Handle Length – 92.65mm
Handle Diameter – 12.45mm
Availability – Janus
Final Word – Not for me
Click to expand...

After I posted yesterday I forwarded the link to Eric at Janus Razors. I'd like to share his response:


Hi Errol,

Thanks a ton for the feedback. I have read up on the review. Thanks for the link. It was super detained which I really appreciate.

It is unfortunate that the changes I made to the production razor made it worse compared to how the prototype performed. In hindsight, I should have just made the cosmetic changes (size, length, weight, etc) and left the angles, gaps and exposures the same. Your feedback is in line with what the other customers have said. Such is the nature of product development.

Since I obviously missed the mark with this 1st Gen razor, I promised to offer a refund to customers who stuck their neck out with a purchase and waited for a really long time as I worked through manufacturing. That promise still stands so don’t be shy about sending it back for a refund. I will honor your request.

Have a great weekend!!

Cheers,
Eric.

Eric Nyaribo, P.E.
Founder, Janus Razors LLC
 
Errol said:
After I posted yesterday I forwarded the link to Eric at Janus Razors. I'd like to share his response:


Hi Errol,

Thanks a ton for the feedback. I have read up on the review. Thanks for the link. It was super detained which I really appreciate.

It is unfortunate that the changes I made to the production razor made it worse compared to how the prototype performed. In hindsight, I should have just made the cosmetic changes (size, length, weight, etc) and left the angles, gaps and exposures the same. Your feedback is in line with what the other customers have said. Such is the nature of product development.

Since I obviously missed the mark with this 1st Gen razor, I promised to offer a refund to customers who stuck their neck out with a purchase and waited for a really long time as I worked through manufacturing. That promise still stands so don’t be shy about sending it back for a refund. I will honor your request.

Have a great weekend!!

Cheers,
Eric.

Eric Nyaribo, P.E.
Founder, Janus Razors LLC
Click to expand...
Thanks for sharing Errol. I'm quite impressed with Mr. Nyaribo's reply.
 
B&R Adjustable (Turkey)



B&R’s Adjustable razor is a collaboration of two razor artisans who apply their skills in Turkey, Barbaros and Rocnel. This particular razor is dated 2016 and I believe this razor to be the first commercially available all stainless steel adjustable razor. A cap very similar to that you’d find in any three piece razor, albeit with a longer than normal centre post and round blade posts is fitted but the underlying principal and the backbone of the adjustable design is a spring loaded two section plate. Of interest is that the upper section is not as wide as the lower section plate; I cannot see why and in use there were no detrimental effects. The plate consists of a grooved lower section and the tongued upper section with that all important spring sandwiched between them. There is a set screw in the flange of the lower section that retains the spring and ensures positive tension between both plate sections. A one piece handle is utilised with the settings #1 - #8 laser etched on the forward shoulder. Unlike other stainless steel adjustable razors, the whole handle is removed from the head when a blade change is required. I oiled all the threads and the shoulder section where the handle screws into the flange at the back of the head but the thread always feels tight (spring pressure). With an aim of reducing the likelihood of damage to the threads I like to take the pressure off the thread by squeezing the plate together before I adjust or unscrew the handle. There are tooling marks under the cap but the rest of the razor is free from machine marks and it’s a pretty good machine polish job on the visible surfaces too.

With a head thickness on about par with a Rocnel Elite razor, manoeuvrability in those tight spots was never going to present a problem. When I previously reviewed this razor, my happy level of efficiency is recorded as setting #2 so what better place to start. I moved up the scale a notch and at setting #3, the B&R produced exceptionally comfortable shaves with a small but pleasing amount of blade feel. Setting #4 was also a very usable position. With the B&R’s Adjustable the blade feel did increase as the settings increased. This razor produced smooth and comfortable shaves. In fact, this razor never put a foot wrong during the whole review, it’s one of the better stainless steel adjustables.
  • #1 – Not much
  • #2 – Karve CB Level #B
  • #3 – Karve CB Level #C plus
  • #4 – Karve CB Level #D plus
  • #5 – Agressive
Adjustment Range – #1 through to #8
Blades Used – Ladas and Gillette 7 O’Clock Black
Material – 316 Stainless Steel
Blade Tab – Slightly exposed
Weight – 147g
Head Width – 41.95mm
Handle Length – 85.5mm
Handle Diameter – 14.25mm
Availability – Out of Production
Final Word – Very enjoyable
 
Nice review, and good a looking razor, $500+ it's out of my league.

How does this razor compare to the newer Rex Ambassador?
 
Last edited:
rhodes96 said:
Nice review, and good a looking razor, $500+ it's out of my league.

How does this razor compare to the newer Rex Ambassador?
Click to expand...
Errol said:
Very similar.
Click to expand...
For me slightly more aggressive...I am a mild-medium razor kind of guy and on the lower settings (1-3) the B&R for me is ~1/2 setting more aggressive than the Rex. I might have a later model of the B&R though. In any case both very enjoyable razors
 
alfredus said:
For me slightly more aggressive...I am a mild-medium razor kind of guy and on the lower settings (1-3) the B&R for me is ~1/2 setting more aggressive than the Rex. I might have a later model of the B&R though. In any case both very enjoyable razors
Click to expand...
Now.... I understand WHY you couldn't use the R41? Are you a real man who loves to drink milk on a hot summer day or are you a mouse and too scary to go out and get some cheeses, because you hate being chased by an angry mad cat.
 
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