REX Ambassador Adjustable – First Release (USA)
There have been changes to the REX Ambassador Adjustable since I purchased this razor in the first release at the end of 2017. REX are restorers of Gillette razors so it was no surprise when their Adjustable razor was released that they chose to continue the Gillette numbering system, this particular razor is coded M3. There were 150 razors in the first release and this razor remains as it originally came from REX with a machined finish on the cap. As the result of user dis-satisfaction REX organised a recall for the removal of the visible machining marks. This razor was not returned for the factory upgraded satin finish and I’m now very content with that decision. All Ambassador razors from this original batch are binned when they are returned for warranty work so I’m now thinking that this one, complete with its original finish must be becoming increasingly rare.
Because this razor is adjustable there are obviously going to be many parts, but for the user, there are just two, the body and the cap. Gibbs’s spring loaded, two-section plate design has again been selected as the basis for the REX Ambassador adjustable head. REX have disguised the two-section plate design a little by providing end tabs on the upper section that cover most of the gap between the sections and also keeps both sections of the plate aligned. Impressively the head is not thick so shaving in those tight spots is not going to present a problem either.
Machined into the spindle of the handle are longitudinal and circumferential grooves that are not only visually impressive but also provide an outstanding grip. Numbers 1 – 6 with intermediary dots denote the razor settings and these markings are etched on the flange behind the head. These numbers are easy to read so aligning them with the red positioning dot on the adjuster ring is not a problem. Machining marks that look like half moons (that I actually like) adorn the top of the cap while the remaining exterior of the razor is machine polished. There are machine marks under the cap and on the top of the plate.
Mid setting position happened to be #3, and my favoured setting last time this razor saw daylight. At setting #3 the shave was smooth and with a pleasant amount of blade feel and an ever so close shave resulted. When the adjuster was moved to #4, there was a definite increase in efficiency but the blade feel felt about the same. Setting #5 and again there was an increase in efficiency and again the blade feel remained constant. Setting #5 was enough for me and I didn’t go any further. I came back to setting #2 for a nice smooth shave and a practical amount of blade feel was the result.
- #1 – Karve CB Level B plus
- #2 – Karve CB Level C plus
- #3 – Karve CB Level D plus
- #4 – Getting savage
- #5 – A bit more savage
These days, by the time I’ve completed two shaves with any razor I just about have the review completed in my head if not down on paper. Shaves three and four are confirmatory shaves and the ones I can really enjoy. Not this time; Malfunction Junction. When the second blade went in (third shave) the shave felt like I’d put a Feather blade into a Karve CB Level #H with no blade guard fitted; cap’s down tight, check the setting, it’s on #2; go again, same feel; went to go down to setting #1 and the adjusting wheel spun freely with no engagement; grabbed another razor and finished the shave. Immediately I’m thinking this is why there are so many of the original REX Adjustables being returned for warranty and I want to keep this razor. Out with my beloved fishing reel oil and put a drop in every place I thought might allow the oil to penetrate to the internals. After about five minutes some engagement was being felt on the adjuster wheel; bloody beaudy! By the time I’d come home from work the whole razor felt just like it did early in the review. Shave number four was again a confirmatory shave but this time checking there was nothing amiss with the razor. All good, it behaved like it was expected to. This is one very pleasant razor to use. Remember that this razor is from the very first release and there is a revised version of the REX Adjustable available; it can only be hoped that not too many changes have been made to the way the updated REX performs.
Adjustment Range – #1 through to #6 with a mid-position dot
Blades Used – Ladas and Treet
Material – Stainless Steel
Blade Tab - Covered
Weight – 99g
Head Width – 45.18mm
Handle Length – 81.5mm
Handle Diameter – 13.25mm
Availability – Out of production
Final Word – Admirable even with a mechanical hiccup