Weekly Razor Review

Muhle R41 GS - Stainless Steel (Germany)



I ordered the Muhle R41 GS from Muhle USA and they were going to supply a set of cuff links. Sorry Sir, we have run out of cuff links so we are sending you a $25 after shave balm. Somehow, Muhle must have read my pedigree, I’ll get far more use out of a can of shave balm than I ever will out of a set of cuff links. On the tenth anniversary of the release of their venerable R41 model, Muhle presented their own stainless steel version of the great razor. Earlier versions of the Muhle R41 were chrome plated zinc and for years there were calls for a stainless steel version, now Muhle have delivered.

Visually the only difference I could determine between the plated zinc versions and stainless steel version was that the stainless steel version actually has a superior shine. Having said that, the underside of the cap and the top of the plate have a satin finish. I went looking for machining marks and the only place I could see what looked like a machine mark was in the recess at the back of the plate. There’s a long lather groove on each side of the plate and of course the scalloped edge, round blade posts on the cap, but like I’ve mentioned, no changes to the zinc version. It was a pleasant surprise just how solid the handle felt, I was expecting a much lighter handle, however the knurling was found to be a wanting, it is both shallow and slippery. It even appears that the handle may well have an electroplated finish but I’m not sure.

Well, surprise, surprise, the delivered shave felt very similar to its zinc sibling but with a bit more blade feel. There is no denying how close the Muhle R41 GS shaves and for such an aggressive razor the feel is reasonable smooth. Muhle have sacrificed functionality for appearances on the R41 GS handle making it the slipperiest handle it has been my misfortune to use in ages. Wet, dry, it just performed badly. That ability to confidently control the GS has probably led me to believe there is more blade feel than there actually is and diminished my enthusiasm for the R41 GS. With my collection being primarily machined stainless steel razors, it may come as a surprise when I say I enjoyed the shave from the zinc R41 more.

Blades Used – Gillette Platinum and Triton
Material – Stainless Steel
Blade Tab – Covered
Weight – 114g
Head Width – 42.28mm
Handle Length – 98.91mm
Handle Diameter – 13.9mm
Availability – In most great razor supply shops
Final Word – Performance
 
Another great review of a recently released razor. Surprised by your findings but appreciate the honesty @Errol (y)
 
Asylum 17-4 Stainless Steel – Refund Model (USA)



It’s fairly well documented that the release of the Asylum 17-4 was bought about over a business deal between Bullgoose Shaving and Paradigm that went wrong; there are two sides to every story. Only Qty 100 of the 17-4’s were made and these were eagerly sought; mine was secured in the second pre-sale. Bullgoose moved from regular postage because the cost was too high and its poor tracking record, going to a more economical courier delivery system. When the cost of the courier service reached almost half of the razor purchase price, I requested that my 17-4 be sent to an on-forwarding company. My razor had not cleared the on-forwarding company when I received an email from Bullgoose saying that there had been a machining error and the purchase cost would be refunded. It’s alleged that the engineering company machined the razor to the original specification and not to the agreed third prototype design. I was advised I could keep the razor and I would get a nice handle out of it; I paid the freight to Australia. I’m no accountant but some quick calculations point to a substantial loss of revenue for Bullgoose Shaving, however by refunding the cost of purchase for the 100 razors, Bullgoose has saved face and well and truly demonstrated their commitment to stand behind their product.

I don’t know where the machining fault occurred, but to my eye, the width of the plate is wider than what I expect. It’s a pity that there is a problem with this razor because it has been very well machined and has such a great polished finish, however if the light is from the right direction, machine marks can be seen under the cap; I’m being fastidious. The handle is a simple cylindrical affair with a shallow spiral wrap around the working grip, looks very nice actually. Now the crunch; it’s come to light that there is a standard for thread size on razor handles in the USA and the Asylum is built to that standard – 10/32”. Great; the handle may fit an old Gillette but not most modern razors, none of the ones I tried anyhow. Wanted to Buy – One early Gillette head, machined out of 17-4 stainless steel; I have a handle that may fit. It’s been advised that the next release will have the more popular m5x.8 thread.

Even though I’d been advised the razor does not shave and had the refund in the bank to back up that claim, I just had to put a blade in it and see for myself. I thought there would be something but there was zero, zip, zippo, zilch, Buckleys, Buccoo, bugger all, nix, naught, nothing. After each pass you could imagine each whisker waving “Tee! Hee! you didn’t get mee!”. Shave with the blade out of any razor in your den and you’d get the same result. Asylum’s 17-4 is all about what could have been; the best material, well made – wellllee maybe not? highly polished, million dollar looks, but in the end, did not shave all because of a machining error. When/ if, and it’s all gone very quiet, the new model is produced, I will be just as anxious to get my hands on one.

Hey Phil!!! I’ve been thinking (that’s always dangerous) and came up with a couple of marketing ploys for the 17-4:
  • ‘The worlds mildest razor – you will feel like you haven’t shaved’.
  • Or how about ‘Never buy another blade – with our exclusive blade protection, the blade will never wear out’.
  • In sincerity though, those blokes who sail model boats might be able to adapt one as an anchor.
Blades Used – Wizamet Polsilver
Material – 17-4 Stainless Steel - Polished
Blade Tab - Covered
Weight – 103g
Head Width – 43.01mm
Handle Length – 80.12mm
Handle Diameter – 12.00mm
Availability – Who’d want one?
Final Word – An expensive blunder

 
The safest razor ever. As @Mark1966 referred we previously discussed M5 vs 10/32 on vintage razors.
May fit nicely on a silver Gillette New SC Head
 
Mark1966 said:
Finally

Now, you had better borrow from my collection and work through them before they get sold off.
Click to expand...

This statement made the Wife VERY nervous. Now you know how Elon Musk feels when he makes rash statements and it effects the whole market 😄
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Errol said:
Asylum 17-4 Stainless Steel – Refund Model (USA)



It’s fairly well documented that the release of the Asylum 17-4 was bought about over a business deal between Bullgoose Shaving and Paradigm that went wrong; there are two sides to every story. Only Qty 100 of the 17-4’s were made and these were eagerly sought; mine was secured in the second pre-sale. Bullgoose moved from regular postage because the cost was too high and its poor tracking record, going to a more economical courier delivery system. When the cost of the courier service reached almost half of the razor purchase price, I requested that my 17-4 be sent to an on-forwarding company. My razor had not cleared the on-forwarding company when I received an email from Bullgoose saying that there had been a machining error and the purchase cost would be refunded. It’s alleged that the engineering company machined the razor to the original specification and not to the agreed third prototype design. I was advised I could keep the razor and I would get a nice handle out of it; I paid the freight to Australia. I’m no accountant but some quick calculations point to a substantial loss of revenue for Bullgoose Shaving, however by refunding the cost of purchase for the 100 razors, Bullgoose has saved face and well and truly demonstrated their commitment to stand behind their product.

I don’t know where the machining fault occurred, but to my eye, the width of the plate is wider than what I expect. It’s a pity that there is a problem with this razor because it has been very well machined and has such a great polished finish, however if the light is from the right direction, machine marks can be seen under the cap; I’m being fastidious. The handle is a simple cylindrical affair with a shallow spiral wrap around the working grip, looks very nice actually. Now the crunch; it’s come to light that there is a standard for thread size on razor handles in the USA and the Asylum is built to that standard – 10/32”. Great; the handle may fit an old Gillette but not most modern razors, none of the ones I tried anyhow. Wanted to Buy – One early Gillette head, machined out of 17-4 stainless steel; I have a handle that may fit. It’s been advised that the next release will have the more popular m5x.8 thread.

Even though I’d been advised the razor does not shave and had the refund in the bank to back up that claim, I just had to put a blade in it and see for myself. I thought there would be something but there was zero, zip, zippo, zilch, Buckleys, Buccoo, bugger all, nix, naught, nothing. After each pass you could imagine each whisker waving “Tee! Hee! you didn’t get mee!”. Shave with the blade out of any razor in your den and you’d get the same result. Asylum’s 17-4 is all about what could have been; the best material, well made – wellllee maybe not? highly polished, million dollar looks, but in the end, did not shave all because of a machining error. When/ if, and it’s all gone very quiet, the new model is produced, I will be just as anxious to get my hands on one.

Hey Phil!!! I’ve been thinking (that’s always dangerous) and came up with a couple of marketing ploys for the 17-4:
  • ‘The worlds mildest razor – you will feel like you haven’t shaved’.
  • Or how about ‘Never buy another blade – with our exclusive blade protection, the blade will never wear out’.
  • In sincerity though, those blokes who sail model boats might be able to adapt one as an anchor.
Blades Used – Wizamet Polsilver
Material – 17-4 Stainless Steel - Polished
Blade Tab - Covered
Weight – 103g
Head Width – 43.01mm
Handle Length – 80.12mm
Handle Diameter – 12.00mm
Availability – Who’d want one?
Final Word – An expensive blunder

Click to expand...
Wonder how it would go with a wider blade like a KAI?
 
Errol said:
Asylum 17-4 Stainless Steel – Refund Model (USA)



It’s fairly well documented that the release of the Asylum 17-4 was bought about over a business deal between Bullgoose Shaving and Paradigm that went wrong; there are two sides to every story. Only Qty 100 of the 17-4’s were made and these were eagerly sought; mine was secured in the second pre-sale. Bullgoose moved from regular postage because the cost was too high and its poor tracking record, going to a more economical courier delivery system. When the cost of the courier service reached almost half of the razor purchase price, I requested that my 17-4 be sent to an on-forwarding company. My razor had not cleared the on-forwarding company when I received an email from Bullgoose saying that there had been a machining error and the purchase cost would be refunded. It’s alleged that the engineering company machined the razor to the original specification and not to the agreed third prototype design. I was advised I could keep the razor and I would get a nice handle out of it; I paid the freight to Australia. I’m no accountant but some quick calculations point to a substantial loss of revenue for Bullgoose Shaving, however by refunding the cost of purchase for the 100 razors, Bullgoose has saved face and well and truly demonstrated their commitment to stand behind their product.

I don’t know where the machining fault occurred, but to my eye, the width of the plate is wider than what I expect. It’s a pity that there is a problem with this razor because it has been very well machined and has such a great polished finish, however if the light is from the right direction, machine marks can be seen under the cap; I’m being fastidious. The handle is a simple cylindrical affair with a shallow spiral wrap around the working grip, looks very nice actually. Now the crunch; it’s come to light that there is a standard for thread size on razor handles in the USA and the Asylum is built to that standard – 10/32”. Great; the handle may fit an old Gillette but not most modern razors, none of the ones I tried anyhow. Wanted to Buy – One early Gillette head, machined out of 17-4 stainless steel; I have a handle that may fit. It’s been advised that the next release will have the more popular m5x.8 thread.

Even though I’d been advised the razor does not shave and had the refund in the bank to back up that claim, I just had to put a blade in it and see for myself. I thought there would be something but there was zero, zip, zippo, zilch, Buckleys, Buccoo, bugger all, nix, naught, nothing. After each pass you could imagine each whisker waving “Tee! Hee! you didn’t get mee!”. Shave with the blade out of any razor in your den and you’d get the same result. Asylum’s 17-4 is all about what could have been; the best material, well made – wellllee maybe not? highly polished, million dollar looks, but in the end, did not shave all because of a machining error. When/ if, and it’s all gone very quiet, the new model is produced, I will be just as anxious to get my hands on one.

Hey Phil!!! I’ve been thinking (that’s always dangerous) and came up with a couple of marketing ploys for the 17-4:
  • ‘The worlds mildest razor – you will feel like you haven’t shaved’.
  • Or how about ‘Never buy another blade – with our exclusive blade protection, the blade will never wear out’.
  • In sincerity though, those blokes who sail model boats might be able to adapt one as an anchor.
Blades Used – Wizamet Polsilver
Material – 17-4 Stainless Steel - Polished
Blade Tab - Covered
Weight – 103g
Head Width – 43.01mm
Handle Length – 80.12mm
Handle Diameter – 12.00mm
Availability – Who’d want one?
Final Word – An expensive blunder

Click to expand...
A brutally honest review but it wouldn't be any other way!!! Great review as always @Errol. (y)
 
From what I read online the 'only' fault was the safety bar distance from lather slots to outer edge. The machine shop didn't grind the safety bar edge back far enough (the edge should be nearer to the lather slots).
So...just shorten those edges. Grind them down (gently) or have a machine shop do it for you.
Then a quick polish up and you will have the razor of your dreams!
Yeah, seriously...grind those edges back a tad. Look at a Tech or similar to to see how much you need to do for the correct amount.
If I owned it, for sure I'd be grinding and polishing it.
 
Paradigm 17-4 (USA)

This review is dedicated to our late friend Nico. Nico held the Paradigm 17-4 in high regard and nominated it as his Holy Grail razor but as far as I know, he never got to use one. R.I.P



Paradigm’s 17-4 was the second razor to be released by Paradigm and was sold exclusively by Bullgoose Shaving back in 2017. I was well aware of the pending release and was ready to buy when sales commenced. The surprising thing for me was how long it took for all qty 150 of the Paradigm 17-4’s to be sold off. During that sale period I kept thinking that I should purchase another but never did. How I regret that decision as Paradigm is unlikely to machine any more razors in this material. Quality wise, this Paradigm is exceptional, other than under the cap there is not a machine mark to be seen. Featured on the handle are large diamond patterns that have been incorporated into later released razors from Paradigm also; becoming more or less a Paradigm signature. The cap and plate are a fairly standard setup; elongated blade posts, two lather channels and did I mention the quality of the Paradigm product. Paradigm have resisted the temptation to engrave any part of this razor and this has become another feature of Paradigm razors.

Paradigm’s 17-4 is credited as the first razor to be machined from the very difficult to work 17-4 class of stainless steel that when polished presents a jewel quality finish. With efficiency around that of a Karve CB Level C, the razor was super smooth to use and the amount of blade feel was spot on to my taste. It produced a close shave and I was secure in knowing that it wasn’t going to take off layers of my face. That diamond pattern on the handle provided a positive grip and with its shorter length was easy to manoeuvre. Paradigm’s 17-4 has built itself a cult following and after sampling it, I now understand why. Anyone with a 17-4 is not going to be in a rush to move it on, so getting your hands on one may involve a lot of searching. It will be worth the chase.

Blades Used – Wizamet Polsilver and Feather
Material – 17-4 Stainless Steel – Polished
Blade Tab - Covered
Weight – 100g
Head Width – 42.92mm
Handle Length – 80.12mm
Handle Diameter – 12mm
Availability – Out of production
Final Word – Superb - Nico, you missed a good one
 
Paradigm Titanium II (1st release) (USA)



Some things are just meant to be. I was at home on Australia Day 2018 (otherwise I’d have been working) when an email came through advising of the release of the Paradigm Titanium II. I was totally unaware of this release but immediately bit the bullet and got myself one of the Qty 30 released. This razor is the overlooked release from Paradigm and is not represented amongst the razors depicted on their website. Its head is a dead ringer for the Paradigm 17-4’s but is fitted with an Art Deco, hexagonal and tapered handle similar to that of the original Paradigm Titanium, complete with chevrons engraved the length of each hexagonal segment. A quality hand polish has been applied to every part of the razor; presentation 10/10. A later, 2nd release of the Titanium II, the better known version, was released with a parallel hexagonal handle.

Pull, I didn’t know what I’d let myself in for; the first couple of strokes were torture, but quickly the initial harshness of the Kai blade wore off and it became smooth; no such trouble for the Minora though, it was silk smooth straight out of the wrapper. Very pleasing for me, the Titanium II was a little more efficient than its sibling, the 17-4, not to Karve CB #D level efficiency but not far under it. To spice things up a little, the Titanium II had a little more blade feel than the Paradigm 17-4 also, I could defiantly live with this razor. That tapered hexagonal shaped handle is a pleasure to hold, it provides plenty of grip, good control and feels comfortable in the hand. I thoroughly enjoyed using the Paradigm 17-4 but the Titanium II is an even better razor.

Blades Used – Kai and Gillette Minora
Material – Titanium
Blade Tab - Covered
Weight – 67g
Head Width – 42.9mm
Handle Length – 91.18mm
Handle Diameter – Tapered Hexagonal
Availability – Out of production
Final Word – Magnificent
 
Razor Burn said:
I don't know how you keep doing it but wowzers :eek: We're lucky having you entertain us with the highly detailed Weekly Razor Review!!! (y)(y)(y)
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Hone Type 15 - Brass



Instead of following like a flock of sheep, Hone has thought outside the square, designing and manufacturing a three piece razor that has differentiated itself from the conventional. Hone’s cap is a fairly standard design with round blade posts but a longer than normal handle post. That longer handle post is required to pass through the plate assembly that features a flared and protruding section at its back. This flared section produces a smooth and seamless transition into the handle that effectively increases the length of the handle. In another unconventional twist, the back of the plate is convex with the ends rounded off towards the blade; distinctive. One long lather groove is machined down each side of the base plate. Not a lot can be said about the handle; too long, but it’s a simple, smooth cylindrical shape that lacks machining in any form. One thing Hone has not done is to reduce the excess weight off the razor; its heavy by any stretch of the imagination.

My Type 15 was never used and had been packed away since about 2018. It was a splotched dark grey when I removed it from its packaging; I suspect the wrapping paper had something to do with the splotches. What to do? I could always give it a polish but it would only be used for the review and then pack it away again. In the end I took to it with a soft rag, no polish, and reduced the heavy spots. It looked rough but I know how to present it when the need arises and looks in no way affect the shave. Hone’s Type 15 is a substantial piece of machined brass that delivers a shave with an efficiency about that of a Karve CB level #C. There is a pleasant amount of blade feel; smooth as, and certainly close. With that long handle manoeuvrability was not a strong point; I’d like to remove at least 15mm off the end and while I’m at it run a drill up the centre of the handle to reduce weight. Even without the assistance of any grooves or knurling, the handle always offered positive grip. It does not take long for brass to develop a patina and by the end of the review there were obvious shiny areas appearing especially near the blade area; I could get to like that affect. Hone’s Type 15 delivered a very pleasant shave but it is a heavy razor; I don’t mind a heavy razor but, this is unnecessarily heavy. What I did not like is the length of the handle. When I purchased this Hone Type 15, a shorter handle was not available; now I see the shorter handle is the only one available - good move. This is a razor that can be enjoyed.

Blades Used – Gillette Minora and Triton
Material – Brass
Blade Tab - Covered
Weight – 184g
Head Width – 43.77mm
Handle Length – 101.65mm
Handle Diameter – 13.5mm
Availability – Hone
Final Word – Needs to go on a diet
 
Errol said:
Hone Type 15 - Brass



Instead of following like a flock of sheep, Hone has thought outside the square, designing and manufacturing a three piece razor that has differentiated itself from the conventional. Hone’s cap is a fairly standard design with round blade posts but a longer than normal handle post. That longer handle post is required to pass through the plate assembly that features a flared and protruding section at its back. This flared section produces a smooth and seamless transition into the handle that effectively increases the length of the handle. In another unconventional twist, the back of the plate is convex with the ends rounded off towards the blade; distinctive. One long lather groove is machined down each side of the base plate. Not a lot can be said about the handle; too long, but it’s a simple, smooth cylindrical shape that lacks machining in any form. One thing Hone has not done is to reduce the excess weight off the razor; its heavy by any stretch of the imagination.

My Type 15 was never used and had been packed away since about 2018. It was a splotched dark grey when I removed it from its packaging; I suspect the wrapping paper had something to do with the splotches. What to do? I could always give it a polish but it would only be used for the review and then pack it away again. In the end I took to it with a soft rag, no polish, and reduced the heavy spots. It looked rough but I know how to present it when the need arises and looks in no way affect the shave. Hone’s Type 15 is a substantial piece of machined brass that delivers a shave with an efficiency about that of a Karve CB level #C. There is a pleasant amount of blade feel; smooth as, and certainly close. With that long handle manoeuvrability was not a strong point; I’d like to remove at least 15mm off the end and while I’m at it run a drill up the centre of the handle to reduce weight. Even without the assistance of any grooves or knurling, the handle always offered positive grip. It does not take long for brass to develop a patina and by the end of the review there were obvious shiny areas appearing especially near the blade area; I could get to like that affect. Hone’s Type 15 delivered a very pleasant shave but it is a heavy razor; I don’t mind a heavy razor but, this is unnecessarily heavy. What I did not like is the length of the handle. When I purchased this Hone Type 15, a shorter handle was not available; now I see the shorter handle is the only one available - good move. This is a razor that can be enjoyed.

Blades Used – Gillette Minora and Triton
Material – Brass
Blade Tab - Covered
Weight – 184g
Head Width – 43.77mm
Handle Length – 101.65mm
Handle Diameter – 13.5mm
Availability – Hone
Final Word – Needs to go on a diet
Click to expand...
These are my sentiments exactly regarding this razor. Gives a good shave, but yes it's a heavy bugger. Maybe I should have taken the plnge at the time and purchased one of the limited (22) edition titanium razors. Now, I wonder who might have one of those lurking around somewhere???:unsure:
 
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