Razor Burn
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Great review! Some good looking handle options, unfortunately everything seems to be out of stock on their site.Le Maurice (France)
For the release of their first Le Maurice, there were many options available; three different metals, five different handle styles, two lengths, full of hollowed out handles, four different styles of plates and three different efficiency levels. That’s a big inventory for a company starting out, all are designed and machined by one artisan so I hope supply can be maintained when the venture takes off. In an email from Augustin, I was advised that he would be starting my razor next week, the penny dropped - the razors are made to order. I choose the handle with the diamond pattern in the short option, hollowed, the middle of the road 1.0mm SB plate and all in 316L stainless steel with a smooth satin finish. Delivery of the razor to Australia was set up when I pushed the ‘Buy Now’ button making the purchase so much less stressful.
Positioned on the top of the plate are the round blade posts, five lather grooves are machined down each side and blade clamping is accomplished on two large flats immediately inside the lather grooves. Machined to be very light, the cap has blind holes for the blade post and big blade clamping flats. When the Le Maurice is advertised with a hollow handle, they are 100% correct, the hole measures a massive 9.5mm x 58.6mm deep; nothing has been done to disguise the hole, it is in the end of the handle for all to see. A chamfer has been machined onto the end of the handle post, and it works well in lining up the handle for assembly.
No beating about the bush, it’s straight to the top shelf of razors, the le Maurice was so confidence inspiring and smooth. With its close shaving action, whiskers were wiped away as simply as you like leaving the face so smooth and a resultant pleasant to feel. Efficiency was about Karve CB level #C, maybe a tad higher and with a minute amount of blade feel. Le Maurice is one of those razors that just performs so effortlessly that you wonder why there is any need to explore the field further. Of course I will, and as good as the Le Maurice is with the 1.0mm plate, I think the 1.2mm plate would be better. Look out Augustin, there will be an order for a titanium Le Maurice with a 1.2mm plate coming. A very well-made and great shaving razor.
Blades Used – Gillette Silver Blue and Tatra
Material – 316L Stainless Steel
Blade Tab - Covered
Weight – 87g
Head Width – 43.01
Handle Length – 83.04mm
Handle Diameter – 13.99mm
Availability – Atelier Durdan
Final Word – No hassle shave
WOW! I didn't l know that you've got a personal love toy vibrator in your bloody den @ErrolStahly Live Blade Vibrating Razor (USA)
I’d never thought of purchasing or had even heard of anything like the Stahly but Old Mate who sold me the baby rattle, Seygus DE 2015 had one for sale and that aroused my wanting to try a vibrating razor. Shaving should be fun so here was a chance to have a crack at something unique, so I bought one; in the end I got it for about 1/2 the price Old Mate was asking. Coming with an instruction sheet, I had the opportunity to read up on it before I had to work it out how to operate it myself. Production of the Stahly commenced after WW2 – 1946 to 1947 seems to be the period where they were most active, but they were available till the 1970’s. Some come in very upmarket packaging but mine was in a clear plastic case, so it’s the poverty pack version. Allowing for the fact that there is a spring wound mechanical mechanism housed in the handle, it is still of gigantic proportions. Not till I measured the length of the handle did I realised that at 87mm it is smack bang on my preferred length of handles; it’s the handle’s girth that gives the optical illusion, being so far out of proportion. Of regular appearance, the cap has bullet shaped blade posts including an alignment notch and wide blade clamping flats that mate with flats on the plate. Its plate is a collection of five parts; centre section, end plates and corrugated cylindrical edges that look like they may rotate but are fixed in position. In the places where I can see bare metal, I’m going to say that it is brass but what the handle is made from, I cannot tell. Three different finishes were available but mine is chrome plated.
It looked like a common thread on the handle post so ever the inquisitive, I tried fitting a variety of modern heads to the handle, no go. Mine is said to be from 1946 and while it may have been lightly used, it is in very good condition and hadn’t been used in a long time. I did not want to push my luck too much by over winding the old spring, but the vibrations only lasted for about 30 seconds initially. In the instruction sheet there was mention that the mechanism worked better with age; after only three or four wind-ups the vibrations were lasting out to 60 seconds but by that time their frequency had slowed right down. If I was not able to get more than 40 seconds of effective vibrations, there was nothing for it but mid shave wind-ups during each pass. With clear instructions to keep moisture out of the end of the handle, soapy hands and a clumsy operator, mid pass wind-ups looked like being a challenge. In the couple of weeks leading up to the review I sat the Stahly alongside the computer so I would wind it up and let it run down as I was sitting there. Wind ups went further and run times increased to something like 90 effective seconds, but I would still have to wind it up during each pass.
Big and cumbersome – yes, but really not too bad when its size was considered; the Stahly needed to be held a bit differently to other razors, but it felt comfortable and secure in the hand. Vibrations from the Stahly felt like hair clippers on the back of the neck if the barber is taking his time, soothing but not overpowering. What impressed me with the Stahly was that long passes could be accomplished without my normal method of breaking long passes into a series of short strokes; pushed up rolls of skin had the opportunity to reposition during each vibration. Even my feared wind ups did not pose any problems, damp hands had plenty to grip on and the procedure was quite simple. Before you ask, it will still shave without vibrations. I was caught out on a couple of occasions when I was getting near the end of the shave and vibrations stopped, I just carried on without any detriment to the shave. For a razor with an efficiency of around a Karve CB Level #C the shave was amazingly close and certainly smooth. It would be interesting to use a vibrating razor where the handle dimensions could be reduced to somewhere near standard dimensions. I enjoyed the experience offered.
Blades Used – Gillette Wilkinson and Gillette Super Stainless Red
Blade Tab - Exposed
Weight – 163g
Head Width – 41.98mm
Handle Length – 87.20mm
Handle Diameter – 18.92mm – Bulb 28.52mm
Availability – Out of production
Final Word – Adds an extra dimension
An interesting idea obviously ahead of its time. Do you have any idea how the vibration acts? (Back/forth, left/right etc...) I once tried one of those Gillette vibrating cartridge thingies, but that failed to impress, and it got sent to landfill. Hopefully the steampunk clockwork version is an improvement.Stahly Live Blade Vibrating Razor (USA)
...
@Gargravarr I had to get the Stahly out to determine where the vibrations were coming from. What @SpeedyPC alluded to seems to be the case, there is more vibrations in the handle than at the head. Having said that the flats on the head vibrate more than the ends of the head, but that's where the vibrations should be directed. Hope this assists.An interesting idea obviously ahead of its time. Do you have any idea how the vibration acts? (Back/forth, left/right etc...) I once tried one of those Gillette vibrating cartridge thingies, but that failed to impress, and it got sent to landfill. Hopefully the steampunk clockwork version is an improvement.
What @SpeedyPC alluded to seems to be the case, there is more vibrations in the handle than at the head. Having said that the flats on the head vibrate more than the ends of the head, but that's where the vibrations should be directed. Hope this assists.
For the record, the atomic number is the number of protons in the nucleus of an atom. (To be pedantic, the relationship breaks down a bit with some of the heavier elements.)s the atomic number for titanium. (It’s surprising how many times that question comes up in quiz shows, I can demonstrate how clever I am, and I don’t even know what an atomic number is).
Yaqi Silverfox (China)
Yaqi now has access to CNC machining and for the last 12 months have been churning out new models in stainless steel and even a brass adjustable. I gave up trying to keep up with them, but I do have a couple. I find it difficult to gain enthusiasm for a lot of them, their designs have been borrowed from reputable (and some, not so reputable) companies and some not instantly recognisably, look pretty crappy. One I did purchase was the Silverfox and it’s the subject of this week’s review. Only 100 (I think they may have dropped a zero or two) have been made for the worldwide market, the suavest razor ever produced by Yaqi, I’m meant to feel like James Bond and you’re supposed to be envious that I have one – let’s wait for a while before we jump to conclusions.
It’s generally accepted that the Razorock Lupo is a clone of the Wolfman WR1; that being the case, what do you call the clone of a Lupo? Not a Wolfman, that’s for sure. As soon as my eyes spotted the Silverfox, there it was - another Lupo. Whenever I pick up a new razor one of the first things I do is unscrew the handle to inspect the workmanship. Half a turn on the handle and I thought the head was going to fall out of the handle, the thread engagement is horrible; Yaqi head, Yaqi handle, and it came as a bundle, no excuse. Missing from the plate are the Lupo scallops along its leading edge, but apart from that, not much is changed visually from the Lupo; blade clamping is at the outer extremities of the cap and a thin profile cap remains. Yaqi have done an incredible job in polishing the Silverfox except for the underside of the cap where machine marks are abundant.
Here is a razor that delivers a smooth and close shave with Karve CB Level #C efficiency. There was a very comfortable amount of blade feel, I would rate it as similar to the Lupo and it was more than sufficient to deliver a very comfortable shave. Lupo 72 is the answer to your question. If only Yaqi had done a decent job with the thread engagement, the Silverfox would have been a truly great economic razor. Come on Yaqi, CNC machines are capable of delivering incredibly close tolerances so pay a decent operator to programme the machinery; you’re close with this one, but you need to do a bit more homework.
Blades Used – Gillette 7’Oclock Black and Derby Extra
Material – Stainless Steel
Blade Tab - Covered
Weight – 88g
Head Width – 42.97mm
Handle Length – 90.92mm
Handle Diameter – 10.00mm
Availability – Wet Shaving Company
Final Word – No Aston Martin with this one
Karve Overlander – Brass (Canada)
Karve Shaving have released their Overlander model to sit alongside the highly acclaimed Christopher Bradley range in their line up. It’s hard to believe that the Christopher Bradley has been around for four years, so it is hoped that Karve learnt something during that time to incorporate into the Overlander. There are wide flats on the cap that marginally overlap the corresponding flats on the plate ensuring that the blade is clamped securely. Love them or hate them, the cut-outs that were a feature on the cap of the original Christopher Bradley have disappeared and in the process the head is now long enough to fully cover the blade. A newly designed handle with a light diamond pattern and longitudinally grooving is fitted; it feels solid and positive. As with the majority of Karves sold, it’s a pleasant bead blasted finish that adorns the Overlander. There are no options available for the Overlander, what you have is all there is to play with, no choice of plates and one handle length, however, I see there is now a stainless steel version available to go with the brass and aluminium versions.
Karve have learned something (read - a lot) from their own experience and must have listened to the feedback from their customers; the Overlander is one very decent razor. With no real sensation of the blade on beard feel, it was difficult to determine just how efficient the Overlander was, but in the end I’ve slotted it into the high side of the Karve CB Level #C. These is a small amount of positive blade protrusion and this makes the razor so smooth to use and it simply wipes away the whiskers. No effort is required to obtain a close shave but the highlight of the Overlander was how safe it feels in use. I’m sure someone can work out how to cut themselves, but for me it was as safe a razor as I’ve ever used. Karve’s Overlander is a magical razor; no doubt about it, this razor is good.
Blades Used – Gillette Nacet and Tatra
Material – Brass
Blade Tab - Covered
Weight – 111g
Head Width – 43.8mm
Handle Length – 90.21mm
Handle Diameter – 12.03mm
Availability – Karve Shaving
Final Word – Effortless performance
Get it in stainless!