Weekly Razor Review

Wolfman WR1 Ti 0.54mm OC – Darwin Handle (Canada)



Wolfman’s WR1 razors have been available for years and are popular with many users; unfortunately, some of the results I have achieved with the WR1 has not fully converted me. In saying that, there have been some good shaves, but thinking back, it has been the OC version that has impressed me, so the selection of the OC plate was made with that concept as my foundation. I thought long and hard about the efficiency level for this WR1 before eventually decided on the 0.54mm plate, it’s milder than the standard Wolfman plate but maybe it’s what I need. Setting a WR1 apart from other razors is its great design and they have the lightest possible head with blade clamping at the very edge of the cap. To complete the package, I selected a Darwin handle, all in titanium and finished in a brushed matte finish; spectacular is an understatement.

Wolfman do not provide identification for the plate on their razors, and this can, at times become confusing. My results from this razor correspond precisely with those I achieved when I reviewed the WR1, 0.61mm OC razor, not that there is anything to complain about with that result. Karve CB Level #C efficiency and a very pleasant amount of blade feel made for a smooth and comfortable shave. There was light feel of the teeth from the open comb, but it was not at all unpleasant, those teeth simply caressed the face as they passed over. I’ve never noted previously just how spindly the Wolfman’s Darwin handle felt in use; there was never any loss in control, it just felt like it required a bit of beefing out in the forward gripping section. Absolutely loved using this WR1, that was enjoyable shaving.

Blades Used – Wizamet Polsilver and Willy’s

Material – Grade 5 Titanium

Weight – 46g

Blade Tab - Exposed

Head Width – 41.58mm

Handle Length – 89.93mm

Handle Diameter – Darwin style

Availability – Wolfman

Final Word – Wow
 
Gargravarr said:
Great review @Errol, and a nice looking razor. Is that the premium brushed finish or the basic brushed? It looks nice. As of today, I'm up to week 7 on the waitlist for my WR4, so I haven't yet had that conversation.
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I’m pretty sure I just requested the brush finish. On the titanium, I don’t think there is premium or basic. You must be getting close to that important email so work out exactly what you want. After payment is made, there are no changes. Hang in there it will be worth the wait.
 
Darwin Deluxe – Variant #6 (England)



Tucked safely away is my Darwin Standard and now finally I have that elusive Darwin Deluxe razor I’ve been thinking about for so long. Strutting around like the prized rooster, chest puffed out, stupid smirk on my face, giving myself a big pat on the back, I now have both versions of the famed Darwin razor. Then, and then I’m enlightened that there are ten different variants of the solid handle Darwin Razor. Wanted – other versions of Darwin Razors.

This razor is in that 100 year old bracket having been produced somewhere between 1920 and 1930. Darwin Deluxe razors have the distinction of being cast in cobalt steel. Cobalt steel is very hard, casts very accurately and has a low affinity to oxygen therefore the threat of corrosion is considerably reduced, all sought after qualities when looking for a material to produce a razor from – makes me wonder why it is not used any more. There can be no misunderstanding who made the razor, the word ‘DARWIN’ is emblazoned on one side on the top of the cap and on the other side is the Patent No. It’s two round blade posts rise from the base plate and protrude completely through the cap. The cap is not as long as the plate but there is ample length to clamp the blade securely. Darwin chose to clamp the blade on flats at the outer extremities of the cap and these mate onto corresponding flats on the plate. Its ‘Darwin Style’ hexagonal handle was designed with those curves, slopes; high and low sections long before the word ergonomic come into the equation. Darwin got the feel of the handle right and it’s very natural to hold. On the Deluxe, the handle is under 80mm long but is ample to provide sufficient grip for a safe shave. An unusual feature of the handle is that it has a male thread that screws into the cap resulting in three little protrusions through the top of the cap.

I don’t remember having any difficulties when I loaded the blade into the Deluxe to take a photo but when it came time to load the blade for a shave, I felt clumsy, like I was trying to fit the blade using three left thumbs. I could not get the blade fitted into the razor. Then I noticed that the cut out in the blade and the blade posts did not fully align; a little squeeze and the blade was on. Check, recheck and there is no obvious wave in the blade and it appears to be sitting how it should, good enough to give it a whirl. By the 1920’s the layout of razor blades was becoming standardized but there were still variations, Darwin had their own design of blade that was thicker than the modern blade, so the shave is not going to feel the same as the original owner received all those years age. Well Old Timer, I might not have been delivered the same shave as you, but I’m really impressed by the shave I did receive. Karve CB level #D efficiency, some very pleasant blade feel and reasonably smooth. There was certainly no requirement for touch ups, the Deluxe wiped everything away. For such a handsome veteran to deliver such a great shave, I walked away suitably impressed.

Blades Used – Gillette Super Stainless and Gillette 7’Oclock Black

Material – Cobalt Steel

Weight - 72.7g

Blade Tab – Exposed

Head Width – 42.15mm

Handle Length – 78.42mm

Handle Diameter – It’s a Darwin

Availability – Out of Production

Final Word – An oldie but a goodie
 
The Darwin Deluxe, wow. I had no clue that this one existed. The build quality and design look superb and that Razor is in Pristine condition given its age. Fantastic review as always Errol and a masterclass in vintage rarities for the unacquainted like me.
 
Errol said:
Darwin Deluxe – Variant #6 (England)



Tucked safely away is my Darwin Standard and now finally I have that elusive Darwin Deluxe razor I’ve been thinking about for so long. Strutting around like the prized rooster, chest puffed out, stupid smirk on my face, giving myself a big pat on the back, I now have both versions of the famed Darwin razor. Then, and then I’m enlightened that there are ten different variants of the solid handle Darwin Razor. Wanted – other versions of Darwin Razors.

This razor is in that 100 year old bracket having been produced somewhere between 1920 and 1930. Darwin Deluxe razors have the distinction of being cast in cobalt steel. Cobalt steel is very hard, casts very accurately and has a low affinity to oxygen therefore the threat of corrosion is considerably reduced, all sought after qualities when looking for a material to produce a razor from – makes me wonder why it is not used any more. There can be no misunderstanding who made the razor, the word ‘DARWIN’ is emblazoned on one side on the top of the cap and on the other side is the Patent No. It’s two round blade posts rise from the base plate and protrude completely through the cap. The cap is not as long as the plate but there is ample length to clamp the blade securely. Darwin chose to clamp the blade on flats at the outer extremities of the cap and these mate onto corresponding flats on the plate. Its ‘Darwin Style’ hexagonal handle was designed with those curves, slopes; high and low sections long before the word ergonomic come into the equation. Darwin got the feel of the handle right and it’s very natural to hold. On the Deluxe, the handle is under 80mm long but is ample to provide sufficient grip for a safe shave. An unusual feature of the handle is that it has a male thread that screws into the cap resulting in three little protrusions through the top of the cap.

I don’t remember having any difficulties when I loaded the blade into the Deluxe to take a photo but when it came time to load the blade for a shave, I felt clumsy, like I was trying to fit the blade using three left thumbs. I could not get the blade fitted into the razor. Then I noticed that the cut out in the blade and the blade posts did not fully align; a little squeeze and the blade was on. Check, recheck and there is no obvious wave in the blade and it appears to be sitting how it should, good enough to give it a whirl. By the 1920’s the layout of razor blades was becoming standardized but there were still variations, Darwin had their own design of blade that was thicker than the modern blade, so the shave is not going to feel the same as the original owner received all those years age. Well Old Timer, I might not have been delivered the same shave as you, but I’m really impressed by the shave I did receive. Karve CB level #D efficiency, some very pleasant blade feel and reasonably smooth. There was certainly no requirement for touch ups, the Deluxe wiped everything away. For such a handsome veteran to deliver such a great shave, I walked away suitably impressed.

Blades Used – Gillette Super Stainless and Gillette 7’Oclock Black

Material – Cobalt Steel

Weight - 72.7g

Blade Tab – Exposed

Head Width – 42.15mm

Handle Length – 78.42mm

Handle Diameter – It’s a Darwin

Availability – Out of Production

Final Word – An oldie but a goodie
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Did you borrowed @Mark1966 razor?
 
Errol said:
Darwin Deluxe – Variant #6 (England)



Tucked safely away is my Darwin Standard and now finally I have that elusive Darwin Deluxe razor I’ve been thinking about for so long. Strutting around like the prized rooster, chest puffed out, stupid smirk on my face, giving myself a big pat on the back, I now have both versions of the famed Darwin razor. Then, and then I’m enlightened that there are ten different variants of the solid handle Darwin Razor. Wanted – other versions of Darwin Razors.

This razor is in that 100 year old bracket having been produced somewhere between 1920 and 1930. Darwin Deluxe razors have the distinction of being cast in cobalt steel. Cobalt steel is very hard, casts very accurately and has a low affinity to oxygen therefore the threat of corrosion is considerably reduced, all sought after qualities when looking for a material to produce a razor from – makes me wonder why it is not used any more. There can be no misunderstanding who made the razor, the word ‘DARWIN’ is emblazoned on one side on the top of the cap and on the other side is the Patent No. It’s two round blade posts rise from the base plate and protrude completely through the cap. The cap is not as long as the plate but there is ample length to clamp the blade securely. Darwin chose to clamp the blade on flats at the outer extremities of the cap and these mate onto corresponding flats on the plate. Its ‘Darwin Style’ hexagonal handle was designed with those curves, slopes; high and low sections long before the word ergonomic come into the equation. Darwin got the feel of the handle right and it’s very natural to hold. On the Deluxe, the handle is under 80mm long but is ample to provide sufficient grip for a safe shave. An unusual feature of the handle is that it has a male thread that screws into the cap resulting in three little protrusions through the top of the cap.

I don’t remember having any difficulties when I loaded the blade into the Deluxe to take a photo but when it came time to load the blade for a shave, I felt clumsy, like I was trying to fit the blade using three left thumbs. I could not get the blade fitted into the razor. Then I noticed that the cut out in the blade and the blade posts did not fully align; a little squeeze and the blade was on. Check, recheck and there is no obvious wave in the blade and it appears to be sitting how it should, good enough to give it a whirl. By the 1920’s the layout of razor blades was becoming standardized but there were still variations, Darwin had their own design of blade that was thicker than the modern blade, so the shave is not going to feel the same as the original owner received all those years age. Well Old Timer, I might not have been delivered the same shave as you, but I’m really impressed by the shave I did receive. Karve CB level #D efficiency, some very pleasant blade feel and reasonably smooth. There was certainly no requirement for touch ups, the Deluxe wiped everything away. For such a handsome veteran to deliver such a great shave, I walked away suitably impressed.

Blades Used – Gillette Super Stainless and Gillette 7’Oclock Black

Material – Cobalt Steel

Weight - 72.7g

Blade Tab – Exposed

Head Width – 42.15mm

Handle Length – 78.42mm

Handle Diameter – It’s a Darwin

Availability – Out of Production

Final Word – An oldie but a goodie
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Hey Errol, did a bit of research on the Darwin Razors after you featured The Deluxe. I do understand that their handle design has been copied time and over but is there any other Razor Head that comes close to the design and probably the shave quality as well of the Deluxe? Not a clone as such but maybe a homage.
 
Bladerunner7 said:
Hey Errol, did a bit of research on the Darwin Razors after you featured The Deluxe. I do understand that their handle design has been copied time and over but is there any other Razor Head that comes close to the design and probably the shave quality as well of the Deluxe? Not a clone as such but maybe a homage.
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Check out this weeks review for a clone.
 
Asylum Evolution DE (USA)



Many razor designers want to present their interpretation of how a Darwin Double Edge razor of the 1930’s would look if they were manufactured today; this razor is Asylum’s version of the Darwin that has been in circulation for about seven or eight years. With only one hole in the cap, it is a dead giveaway that the Evolution was modelled on the Darwin Standard. Similar in design to the original Darwin cap there is the thickening at the centre before it flares to a wide, but thin blade clamping edges. Generous lather clearing grooves are a feature of the plate and while photos of the plate show it to have an almost flat profile, the blade is given curvature. Unlike the cast original Darwin, the Evolution is machined from stainless steel and is presented with a very serviceable satin finish. There are some machine marks present on the cap and the underside of the plate but they do not detract from the overall look. Complete with the Darwin style hexagonal handle and its male thread screwing into the cap, this really is a replica of the Darwin Standard.

Every time I pick up an Asylum razor, I have mental flashbacks to the original RX I used; angry, cuts and pieces of flesh missing everywhere. Fortunately, the Evolution is far removed from that level of aggression, it is a very well mannered performer, very much in my comfort zone, albeit at the milder end. With efficiency around the Karve CB level #C, a comfortable amount of blade feel and as smooth a shave as you’re likely to get anywhere, I enjoyed the results delivered by the Asylum. Having previously used a genuine Darwin with its 3” handle, using the Evolution was second nature so there were no surprises in the handle department. Come on Mr Bullgoose, it’s time to do another run of the Evolution, a titanium version would be appreciated.

Blades Used – Gillette Nacet and Royal II

Material – 303 Stainless Steel

Weight – 76g

Blade Tab - Exposed

Head Width – 42.03mm

Handle Length – 80.5mm

Handle Diameter – Darwin interpretation

Availability – Out of production

Final Word – Refined
 
This isn't just a terrific sequel but an amazing and detailed comparison. Top notch review as always Errol and an introduction to another Razor I knew nothing of. I love the look of the Darwin Deluxe and the Asylum Evolution DE as well. The latter does look like clean shaven and docile younger sibling of the Darwin.

I've always wondered what would be more challenging, creating a homage to an Iconic product or just designing your own. Clones are different as they would be exact or almost exact copies. I have always found sub-editing or rewriting someone else's feature to be tough and far more time consuming. It's easier to write your own from scratch.

When it comes to Razors, the head geometry, blade clamping, weight of the handle and the resulting balance with the head, it's all down to precision measurements etc and the Machinist or designer knows what he wants out of it. The ones that modify iconic designs are also aware that the slightest miscalculation or change in design will produce very different results for the shaver which could swing either ways, better or worse. It's almost like a calculated risk.
 
Asylum Evolution XL Brass- ‘T’ Plate (USA)



Bullgoose followed the release of the Asylum Evolution with their Asylum Evolution XL, a model that was fitted with a longer 3.5” handle and machined from brass. This razor is from the very first batch of Evolution XL brass razors and as such was fitted with the only plate available at the time, the standard plate. When the more efficient ‘T’ plate became available, I purchased ‘T’ plates for both the brass and stainless steel Evolutions; that brass ‘T’ plate is being used in this review. It would have been so easy to engrave a ‘T’ on the plate to identify it; mine is a clean skin so out with the vernier to separate the two. Other than the differences already noted, there have been no further visual changes; the Evolution XL ‘T’ has the same style cap and plate as the Evolution, flared centre section on the cap, generous lather clearing grooves, same Darwin style handle only ½” longer and of course the handle is modelled on the renowned Darwin handle.

Asylum’s efforts to increase the efficiency of the Evolution with the introduction of the ’T’ plate have worked, it is now slightly above Karve CB level #D efficiency with a corresponding increase in blade feel. For those who complained the original Evolution was too mild, the XE should put a smile on a few of their dials, but you can’t please everyone. Smooth was the order of the day and of course that efficiency level and positive blade provided a close shave as it usually does. That extra 0.5” of handle worked a treat, but then again, I didn’t complain about the 3.0” handle either. Again I reiterate - Mr Bullgoose, it is time to re-release the Evolution, both versions and both efficiencies. This is a sweet little razor.

Blades Used – Gillette 7’Oclock Yellow and Gillette Silver Blue

Material – Brass

Weight – 94g

Blade Tab - Exposed

Head Width – 41.21mm

Handle Length – 94.20mm

Wandle Diameter – Hexagonal Darwin

Availability – Out of production

Final Word – A delight
 
Errol said:
Asylum Evolution XL Brass- ‘T’ Plate (USA)



Bullgoose followed the release of the Asylum Evolution with their Asylum Evolution XL, a model that was fitted with a longer 3.5” handle and machined from brass. This razor is from the very first batch of Evolution XL brass razors and as such was fitted with the only plate available at the time, the standard plate. When the more efficient ‘T’ plate became available, I purchased ‘T’ plates for both the brass and stainless steel Evolutions; that brass ‘T’ plate is being used in this review. It would have been so easy to engrave a ‘T’ on the plate to identify it; mine is a clean skin so out with the vernier to separate the two. Other than the differences already noted, there have been no further visual changes; the Evolution XL ‘T’ has the same style cap and plate as the Evolution, flared centre section on the cap, generous lather clearing grooves, same Darwin style handle only ½” longer and of course the handle is modelled on the renowned Darwin handle.

Asylum’s efforts to increase the efficiency of the Evolution with the introduction of the ’T’ plate have worked, it is now slightly above Karve CB level #D efficiency with a corresponding increase in blade feel. For those who complained the original Evolution was too mild, the XE should put a smile on a few of their dials, but you can’t please everyone. Smooth was the order of the day and of course that efficiency level and positive blade provided a close shave as it usually does. That extra 0.5” of handle worked a treat, but then again, I didn’t complain about the 3.0” handle either. Again I reiterate - Mr Bullgoose, it is time to re-release the Evolution, both versions and both efficiencies. This is a sweet little razor.

Blades Used – Gillette 7’Oclock Yellow and Gillette Silver Blue

Material – Brass

Weight – 94g

Blade Tab - Exposed

Head Width – 41.21mm

Handle Length – 94.20mm

Wandle Diameter – Hexagonal Darwin

Availability – Out of production

Final Word – A delight
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Superb Review as always Errol. I do like the look of the Stainless Steel better though and I guess that's a personal preference. The T plate would have been right up my alley. The more efficient the Razor, the more comfortable I find it to use nowadays. I think any branding or even probably a logo on the top cap would have just made this Razor look regal. The clean design is nice but it does need just a tad bit of an upgrade on the overall look. I would get this Razor based on your take on it.

My question though, is why did Bullgoose discontinue them, were they unpopular or tough to sell? There aren't any Razors around that offer this look and shave experience and I think it would have been a BG exclusive anyways. I hope they bring out a batch of this soon, I'm sure a lot of Shavers would bite.
 
Jurgen Hemple Darwin (Germany)




Only 10 of the Jurgen Hemple Darwin razors were ever manufactured as a machined highly polished stainless steel tribute to the esteemed Darwin razor. Jurgen Hemple went the opposite route to the Asylum Evolution and modelled his Darwin style version razor on the Darwin Deluxe, therefore it has three neat little round protrusions through the top of the cap. With the original Darwin Deluxe in one hand and the Jurgen Hemple the other, a visual comparison of the two reveales very little difference. I had to keep referring to the Deluxe with the Darwin emblem on the cap to make sure I was checking the right razor. Same shorter length cap, same large lather openings in the plate, same style of cap, thick in the centre and flattening out at the edges, same handle; like I mentioned, nigh on identical to the original. As expected, the Jurgen Hemple interpretation of the Darwin has been handed the very apt hash tag – the Jarwin.

It’s away to a good start for the Jarwin, the blade slipped straight over the blade posts on the plate to sit there without any fuss, thanks Jurgen for revising that from the original design. Shave wise, there is very little to choose between the Jarwin and the Deluxe; Karve CB level #D efficiency and maybe just a small reduction in blade feel, but very nice indeed. Jurgen Hemple has further similarities to the Deluxe by delivering a smooth and close shave in a very comfortable fashion. It is a pity that so few are ever going to have the opportunity to use the Jurgen Hemple Darwin, it is easier to find an original Darwin Deluxe than it is to find the imitation.

Blades Used – Gillette 7’Oclock Black and Royal II

Material – Stainless Steel – Polished

Weight – 75.9g

Blade Tab - Exposed

Head Width – 41.8mm

Handle Length – 80.02mm

Handle Diameter – Jarwin’s Darwin handle

Availability – Out of Production

Final Word – Carbon copy of the original
 
Errol said:
Jurgen Hemple Darwin (Germany)




Only 10 of the Jurgen Hemple Darwin razors were ever manufactured as a machined highly polished stainless steel tribute to the esteemed Darwin razor. Jurgen Hemple went the opposite route to the Asylum Evolution and modelled his Darwin style version razor on the Darwin Deluxe, therefore it has three neat little round protrusions through the top of the cap. With the original Darwin Deluxe in one hand and the Jurgen Hemple the other, a visual comparison of the two reveales very little difference. I had to keep referring to the Deluxe with the Darwin emblem on the cap to make sure I was checking the right razor. Same shorter length cap, same large lather openings in the plate, same style of cap, thick in the centre and flattening out at the edges, same handle; like I mentioned, nigh on identical to the original. As expected, the Jurgen Hemple interpretation of the Darwin has been handed the very apt hash tag – the Jarwin.

It’s away to a good start for the Jarwin, the blade slipped straight over the blade posts on the plate to sit there without any fuss, thanks Jurgen for revising that from the original design. Shave wise, there is very little to choose between the Jarwin and the Deluxe; Karve CB level #D efficiency and maybe just a small reduction in blade feel, but very nice indeed. Jurgen Hemple has further similarities to the Deluxe by delivering a smooth and close shave in a very comfortable fashion. It is a pity that so few are ever going to have the opportunity to use the Jurgen Hemple Darwin, it is easier to find an original Darwin Deluxe than it is to find the imitation.

Blades Used – Gillette 7’Oclock Black and Royal II

Material – Stainless Steel – Polished

Weight – 75.9g

Blade Tab - Exposed

Head Width – 41.8mm

Handle Length – 80.02mm

Handle Diameter – Jarwin’s Darwin handle

Availability – Out of Production

Final Word – Carbon copy of the original
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Another Stunning review of a stunning razor. Errol, you have been at it again buddy, this is top notch stuff. I love the manner in which the Jurgen Hemple Razor is like a twin of the Darwin but one that came a minute later. The Logo of the Original on the top cap gives it a regal touch but otherwise if both were available, I would snap them up in an instant. Unlike the Asylum versions, the Jarwin has those smooth rounded edges and the overall look including the scalloping on the base plate etc. is fantastic. It is an amazing design that follows the original and thanks for sharing another gem with us Errol.
 
Darwin Standard - Variant #8 (Sheffield England)



Manufactured in the 1930’s, the Darwin Standard like all versions of the Darwin are very distinctive, rare, and sought after razors. Reviewed this week is the Darwin Standard razor with its standout feature being that distinctive and immediately identifiable hexagonal Darwin style of the handle. There are some who believe the Standard to have been cast from stainless steel and not cobalt steel like the Deluxe version; a magnet will generally not be attracted to stainless steel but has a love affinity with cobalt steel. Putting my small, but very strong horseshoe magnet near the Standard and they didn’t want anything to do with each other, enough evidence to convince me that it’s stainless steel all right. Bugger – I was sure it was going to be cobalt steel. On the Darwin Standard, the position of the blade posts was revised, and they now protrude out the rear of the plate; only the male screw end of the handle is visible through the cap. Blade clamping is at the outer extremities of the cap. My Darwin Standard is in good condition considering its age and I’m reluctant to try even polishing it for fear of causing any degradation, everything works, there are no cracks and for this razor that is the all-important part.

There was an important change in direction for blade selection at Darwin between their Deluxe and the Standard models because ‘today’s’ blade fitted easily to the Standard. This should mean that the result achieved using modern blades is going to be very similar, if not the same, as that of the blades that were available when the Standard was released. Darwin achieved a pleasing combination of blade gap and exposure for the Standard and it delivers a shave in Karve CB Level #C / D range. There was a small amount of blade feel and the shave was very comfortable. Such a pleasing result just goes to show that there has been no actual improvement in shave delivery in the past 100 years. Different metals, production methods may have become quicker with the advent of CNC machines, but the performance of the razor has barely altered, so while the new crop of manufacturers go on about the virtues of their upcoming XYZ model, it is all a load of the proverbial bull. Not to worry new crop of manufacturers, I’ll be out there looking for your new XYZ 1/2 model when it’s released. I went into the reviews of the three Darwin razors without any preconceived ideas and walked away impressed. Loved your work.

Blades Used – Gillette Nacet and Gillette Super Stainless

Material – Stainless steel

Weight – 74.1g

Blade Tab - Exposed

Head Width – 41.48mm

Handle Length – 79.67mm

Handle Diameter – A real Darwin

Availability – Out of Production

Final Word – A classic shave
 
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