Weekly Razor Review

Errol, thank you for these reviews.

I agree with you on the Aylsworth Apex which I find to be an impressive razor. I prefer my razors a bit lighter weight but admittedly, the SS Apex is giving me fantastic shaves.

If he were to make the Apex in titanium, it could well be my grail razor. As things stand presently, I will be watching for the next drop of the Drakkant Ti with plus plate. If it shaves similarly to the Apex, I'm sure I'll enjoy it.
 
Superior Cuts V1 0.8mm (Croatia)



Superior Cuts have employed 3D print FMD technology in the production of this razor and chose PLA+ plastic as the medium to print the razor with. I believe my razor is from the first run and it comes in a grey coloured material. A textured finish is used on external surfaces except for the face contact areas, even the grooves along the handle have the textured feel so positive grip should be no issue. Lately many razors are coming out with short handle posts, not the Superior Cuts; it has an exceptionally long handle post, and the quality of its thread engagement is a credit to its programmer. Blade clamping is out near the outer edge of the cap and there are wide flats for clamping on the plate. There is much to like about the build quality of the Superior Cuts so disregard negative thoughts and accept the razor for what it is, a well thought out razor. Everything about the razor is quality, it’s solid and neither looks nor feels cheap.

Because it is offered with three different plates, Superior Cuts have designated the razor adjustable. Three plates – I dislike mild razors, put the 0.4mm plate aside; it’s now out of the other two plates. I looked at the specification, scratched my head and eventually decided that my review shave would be using the 0.8mm plate, I have the 0.6mm plates available for another review if I choose. There is no denying this razor is made from plastic, it’s light weight and it has a plastic feel about it, but not that cheap throw away plastic feel. That initial shock of the razor being so light only lasted for the first shave and in later shaves after I became accustomed to the weight, it felt like any other razor. With Karve CB Level #D performance and a generous amount of positive blade, this razor operates right in my sweet spot. I cannot say the shave was super smooth, but it was a long way from being uncomfortable. Light weight and a quality shave make this razor ideal for travelling and it would be especially appreciated by the backpacker. I just wish it was available when I was in the Army; on exercise, everything needed for a month on my back and a requirement to shave every day.

Blades Used – Gillette 7 O’Clock Super Platinum Black and Gillette Super Thin

Material – PLA+ Plastic

Blade Tab – Covered

Weight – 16.2g

Head Width – 42.84mm

Handle Length – 84.88mm

Handle Diameter – 11.78mm

Availability – Ebay

Final Word – Impressive performance

PS

There has already been an upgrade of the Superior Cuts released, it’s now made from PETG with the stated benefit of enhanced toughness, UV resistance and a choice of colours, I have the OC variant ordered.
 
Extrò T Benz Ultra (Italy)



If you’ve not heard of the Ultra Benz razor, neither had I so let me share some detail; the Extrò T Benz Ultra was produced as a tribute to the Ultra Benz Baenzinger of Bolgonia that was produced somewhere between 1934 and about 1940. Changes to the original include being made from a different material, made wider to accept a modern blade and the plate thickness is increased slightly to promote greater adherence and stability. Even though Blackland may have removed their 3D printed Era razor from their inventory, I firmly believe 3D printed razors are the way of the not too distant future and there will be no shortage of 3D printed razors marketed. Extrò produced their T Benz Ultra by 3D printing it in 17-4ph stainless steel. This has produced a satin finish that at first glance, looks somewhat like a Damascus steel, however run your finger over the finish on the surface of the cap and plate and it feels layered, the handle may have been turned but I’m thinking it is high quality 3D printing. I’d like to think that the finish on the head is as it came out of the printer, but the face engaging surfaces are smooth. One big advantage of 3D printing is that there are no machine marks on the underside of the cap, I appreciate that. Blade clamping is inside the edge of the cap, and the blade is clamped over the entire top surface of the plate. One criticism is that the thread engagement is very sloppy but the handle itself is hollow and a fine knurl applied to the surface. Incredibly the weight of the finished razor is 75g; not bad at all for a stainless steel razor.

Let’s have a look at a recreation of what the Italian wet shaving signore could have been using in the 1930’s. First stroke – make that the first inch, stop, check the handle is screwed down. It was, I’d better pay attention to what I’m doing with this one. In fairness, there was a whole lot of new blade syndrome in that first pass, it settled back to delivering a shave with efficiency slightly above that of a Karve CB level #D but with more than adequate positive blade, this razor sits just outside my idea of where a razor should operate. It was certainly a close shave but as for being a smooth shave, it simply did not happen. It was great to be able to use the modern interpretation of a vintage razor and pay homage to those who tamed these beasts. This is a razor I would not use every day, but for every second day, it’s a great performer.

Blades Used – Gillette Minora and Glatz

Material – 17-4ph stainless steel

Blade Tab - Enclosed

Weight – 75g

Head Width – 43.19mm

Handle Length – 90.11mm

Handle Diameter – 13.47mm

Availability – Extrò Cosmesi

Final Word – Interesting
 
Blackie said:
@Errol that blade looks to be skewed a tad (Extrò T Benz Ultra).
In the photo the far edge is sitting lower than the near edge.
Or is the razor not fully tightened and just used as is for the photo shoot?
Click to expand...
I think the edge of the blade sitting lower is a bit of an optical illusion, when I checked the seating, everything was square. I have a selection of blades that I use for photos and they have been around for a long time. @Gargravarr pointed out recently that these photo blades had seen better days, so I changed them over. Photos using those old blades will be around for a while.
 
Rocnel Elit 2023 – Ti and SS (Turkey)



My ongoing gripe with Rocnel razors has long been their weight. At long last Rocnel have decided to do something about it, they dropped the ‘e’ off the end of razor’s model name, it is now the Elit. No, no Silly, that didn’t save any weigh but fitting their 2023 versions of the Elit with a titanium handle certainly did, the head remains as 316 stainless steel. At the last review of an Elite, it weighed in at a whopping 122g, this one weighs in at 74g; thank you Mr Rocnel. It’s marvellous what fitting a titanium handle to a razor can achieve, pleasant balance, a massive weight reduction and less complaints from Errol. Rocnel have retained the original profile for their Elit, circular ends on the head, round posts on the cap mating into blind holes in the plate, blade clamping well inside the flats on the cap and one large lather clearing groove along each edge of the plate. Its titanium handle is the centre piece of the razor. It is solid without the heft and has been cross hatched with a shallow diamond pattern that appeals to my idea of what a razor handle should look like. On the end of the handle is the anchor symbol of Rocnel, it is covered by a blue sticker that has been left intact. Rocnel are certainly making use of their ‘Rolex’ like polish machine and most of the razor has that Rolex look finish; this razor looks superb.

There were no blades included with the package, but it’s a Rocnel and what would a Rocnel be without a Feather blade fitted, but this time around I decided to go with the milder blade first. Rocnel’s Elit provided an extremely comfortable shave and it was all accomplished with the mind in neutral mode. There was no need to concentrate on what the razor was doing, its light weight, wide shave angle range and a smooth shave were all part of the pleasure. Efficiency was around the Karve CB Level #C range and there were no touch-ups required, so easy, so simple. Personally, my preference would be a small step up in efficiency but to the Elit’s credit it shaved both close and comfortably, another champion razor from Rocnel.

Blades Used – Gillette 7’Oclock Green and Feather

Material – Gr5 Titanium and 316L Stainless Steel

Blade Tab - Enclosed

Weight – 73.8g

Head Width – 45.95mm

Handle Length – 87.7mm

Handle Diameter – 13.91mm

Availability – Rocnel

Final Word – Stress free
 
Thank you for another excellent review, @Errol. This is another razor that I am going to take a pass on due to its asking price. €419 with shipping + GST works out to around $AUD800. Does it really shave that much better than my 60+ year old "Fatboy" or "Slim"? Each of which cost me less than $AUD60. It's just a three-piece razor mimmicking the same design as the original Gillette patented in 1904. Sure, the materials are better and tolerances are closer, but it still isn't rocket science. These modern day companies can ask several hundred dollars for their razors only because there are people willing to pay the price.

Okay, I've had my rant, thank you again.
 
Errol said:
Rocnel Elit 2023 – Ti and SS (Turkey)



My ongoing gripe with Rocnel razors has long been their weight. At long last Rocnel have decided to do something about it, they dropped the ‘e’ off the end of razor’s model name, it is now the Elit. No, no Silly, that didn’t save any weigh but fitting their 2023 versions of the Elit with a titanium handle certainly did, the head remains as 316 stainless steel. At the last review of an Elite, it weighed in at a whopping 122g, this one weighs in at 74g; thank you Mr Rocnel. It’s marvellous what fitting a titanium handle to a razor can achieve, pleasant balance, a massive weight reduction and less complaints from Errol. Rocnel have retained the original profile for their Elit, circular ends on the head, round posts on the cap mating into blind holes in the plate, blade clamping well inside the flats on the cap and one large lather clearing groove along each edge of the plate. Its titanium handle is the centre piece of the razor. It is solid without the heft and has been cross hatched with a shallow diamond pattern that appeals to my idea of what a razor handle should look like. On the end of the handle is the anchor symbol of Rocnel, it is covered by a blue sticker that has been left intact. Rocnel are certainly making use of their ‘Rolex’ like polish machine and most of the razor has that Rolex look finish; this razor looks superb.

There were no blades included with the package, but it’s a Rocnel and what would a Rocnel be without a Feather blade fitted, but this time around I decided to go with the milder blade first. Rocnel’s Elit provided an extremely comfortable shave and it was all accomplished with the mind in neutral mode. There was no need to concentrate on what the razor was doing, its light weight, wide shave angle range and a smooth shave were all part of the pleasure. Efficiency was around the Karve CB Level #C range and there were no touch-ups required, so easy, so simple. Personally, my preference would be a small step up in efficiency but to the Elit’s credit it shaved both close and comfortably, another champion razor from Rocnel.

Blades Used – Gillette 7’Oclock Green and Feather

Material – Gr5 Titanium and 316L Stainless Steel

Blade Tab - Enclosed

Weight – 73.8g

Head Width – 45.95mm

Handle Length – 87.7mm

Handle Diameter – 13.91mm

Availability – Rocnel

Final Word – Stress free
Click to expand...
Interesting. Thanks for the review. Nice looking razor.
The weight is part of what I like about my Elite. I love the solid feel (you feel you could almost drive nails with it) but sure, it's not as agile. :)
 
Rocnel Elite Brass 2024 (Turkey)



A Rocnel Elite in brass, I’ll have one of those but a review of it was never planned. I was midway through the review on the Rocnel Ti Elit when I decided to photograph the brass Elite and pack it away. I’d never had the Elite brass out of its sealed bag so the first aspect to spark my attention was the grip on the handle, exceptional. If the blade I use for photos had sat on the blade posts without being squeezed on, that would have been it, the Elite brass would have been packed away. Back to the old days of Feather blades for Rocnel, I’d better check this razor further. Other observed changes include the ends of the head being squared off, the external appearance of the cap now mimics that fitted to YPM, The Winner with that shave angle dictating shape and the face engaging surface of the plate is smooth. Brass is not generally seen in Rocnel production and with a machined finish and no engraving, there’s another surprise. Machining the Elite in brass has swung its weight back into the overweight range of the stainless steel versions - 125g. There is a hole in the end of the handle, but it is a small diameter and does not go completely through, there are numerous areas where Jenny Craige could weave her magic over this razor.

As expected, the Feather blade slipped straight over the blade posts, where’s that list of blades that can be used in an earlier Rocnel razors:

“Please Note: The Rocnel razor is designed to be used with Feather Hi-Stainless DE blades. That said, the following blades also fit perfectly: Ladas, Voskhod, Gillette 7 O'Clock blacks, Rapira Platinum Lux, Rapira Swedish Supersteel, Rapira Super Stainless, Viking's Sword and Derby Extra.”

I dislike razors where flats on the cap dictate the shave angle. As previously mentioned, the Brass Elite has them, so I was expecting to be annoyed by the edge on the cap pivoting the blade away from face contact. It never happened on the first shave, the second shave or any other shave; Rocnel have got the angle right for me. Other than the obvious weight difference, the Elite shaved very similar to the Elit Ti I reviewed last week. Karve CB Level #C efficiency and smooth as silk. That machined knurling on the handle deserves special mention, it looks fantastic, and the provided grip is as good as will be found on any razor. The Rocnel Elite Brass is economical, and it will introduce new customers to the Rocnel brand and to wet shaving. If that is the case the Elite Brass is a total success.

Blades Used – Feather and Ladas

Material – Brass

Weight – 124.9g

Blade Tab - Exposed

Head Width – 41.93mm

Handle Length – 86mm (effective length)

Handle Diameter – 13.73mm

Availability – Rocnel

Final Word – Ideal for first up razor
 
Errol said:
Rocnel Elite Brass 2024 (Turkey)



A Rocnel Elite in brass, I’ll have one of those but a review of it was never planned. I was midway through the review on the Rocnel Ti Elit when I decided to photograph the brass Elite and pack it away. I’d never had the Elite brass out of its sealed bag so the first aspect to spark my attention was the grip on the handle, exceptional. If the blade I use for photos had sat on the blade posts without being squeezed on, that would have been it, the Elite brass would have been packed away. Back to the old days of Feather blades for Rocnel, I’d better check this razor further. Other observed changes include the ends of the head being squared off, the external appearance of the cap now mimics that fitted to YPM, The Winner with that shave angle dictating shape and the face engaging surface of the plate is smooth. Brass is not generally seen in Rocnel production and with a machined finish and no engraving, there’s another surprise. Machining the Elite in brass has swung its weight back into the overweight range of the stainless steel versions - 125g. There is a hole in the end of the handle, but it is a small diameter and does not go completely through, there are numerous areas where Jenny Craige could weave her magic over this razor.

As expected, the Feather blade slipped straight over the blade posts, where’s that list of blades that can be used in an earlier Rocnel razors:

“Please Note: The Rocnel razor is designed to be used with Feather Hi-Stainless DE blades. That said, the following blades also fit perfectly: Ladas, Voskhod, Gillette 7 O'Clock blacks, Rapira Platinum Lux, Rapira Swedish Supersteel, Rapira Super Stainless, Viking's Sword and Derby Extra.”

I dislike razors where flats on the cap dictate the shave angle. As previously mentioned, the Brass Elite has them, so I was expecting to be annoyed by the edge on the cap pivoting the blade away from face contact. It never happened on the first shave, the second shave or any other shave; Rocnel have got the angle right for me. Other than the obvious weight difference, the Elite shaved very similar to the Elit Ti I reviewed last week. Karve CB Level #C efficiency and smooth as silk. That machined knurling on the handle deserves special mention, it looks fantastic, and the provided grip is as good as will be found on any razor. The Rocnel Elite Brass is economical, and it will introduce new customers to the Rocnel brand and to wet shaving. If that is the case the Elite Brass is a total success.

Blades Used – Feather and Ladas

Material – Brass

Weight – 124.9g

Blade Tab - Exposed

Head Width – 41.93mm

Handle Length – 86mm (effective length)

Handle Diameter – 13.73mm

Availability – Rocnel

Final Word – Ideal for first up razor
Click to expand...
Amazing razor indeed, is a bargain, very good review 👏
 
Like Grandpa Razor (Canada)




Like Grandpa are upfront in advising that the geometry in the head of their razor is borrowed from the Karve Shave Company, so in reality the only thing different is going to be the handle. I was a bit taken back when the 0.73mm head they use is the equivalent of the Karve CB Level #B but it’s a while since I used a Karve so it will be good to brush up on my standards again. Like Grandpa is made in Canada and had no restrictions on posting the razor to Australia, unlike Karve who have blacklisted sending their product to Australia. As expected, there is no visual difference between the heads of the Karve and the Like Grandpa’s Razor. Blade clamping is very near the outer extremities of the cap and the semi-circular blade removal cut outs have been retained. There is nothing special about the plate, it is standard Karve fare with the round blade posts protruding completely through to be exposed at the rear. Just as boring is the handle: it has a fine knurl along its length and a few circular grooves. Adding to what is already a dull piece of razor is the satin bead blasted finish. After such a thrilling description of their handywork, I wonder if Like Grandpa will ever sell me another razor.

Yes, that’s exactly how I was expecting a Karve CB Level #B to operate. There is no doubt that the shave was smooth with the end result being a close shave and at the end of the day that is exactly what is required in a shave. You would have to do something positively stupid for the Like Grandpa razor to bite, it feels so safe; it’s no wonder that mild razors have such a dedicated fan base. While I loved the security in knowing I can get a great shave with both eyes closed, it was not sufficient to convert me to being a full on mild razors user, I would much prefer to shave with a razor that sits a couple of notches further up the Karve efficiency ladder. Sorry, almost forgot - it’s that handle that’s different and that’s what is really being checking out on this razor. Well, the handle clamped the head down firmly, provided reasonable grip and didn’t break in half so it done exactly what it’s supposed to do. Like Grandpa’s Razor is not for me, just another razor.

Blades Used – Gillette Nacet and Willy’s

Material – Brass

Weight – 106.7g

Blade Tab - Exposed

Head Width – 40.64mm

Handle Length – 90.06mm

Handle Diameter – 12.09mm

Availability – Like Grandpa

Final Word – Grandpa’s feather bed
 
Errol said:
Like Grandpa Razor (Canada)




Like Grandpa are upfront in advising that the geometry in the head of their razor is borrowed from the Karve Shave Company, so in reality the only thing different is going to be the handle. I was a bit taken back when the 0.73mm head they use is the equivalent of the Karve CB Level #B but it’s a while since I used a Karve so it will be good to brush up on my standards again. Like Grandpa is made in Canada and had no restrictions on posting the razor to Australia, unlike Karve who have blacklisted sending their product to Australia. As expected, there is no visual difference between the heads of the Karve and the Like Grandpa’s Razor. Blade clamping is very near the outer extremities of the cap and the semi-circular blade removal cut outs have been retained. There is nothing special about the plate, it is standard Karve fare with the round blade posts protruding completely through to be exposed at the rear. Just as boring is the handle: it has a fine knurl along its length and a few circular grooves. Adding to what is already a dull piece of razor is the satin bead blasted finish. After such a thrilling description of their handywork, I wonder if Like Grandpa will ever sell me another razor.

Yes, that’s exactly how I was expecting a Karve CB Level #B to operate. There is no doubt that the shave was smooth with the end result being a close shave and at the end of the day that is exactly what is required in a shave. You would have to do something positively stupid for the Like Grandpa razor to bite, it feels so safe; it’s no wonder that mild razors have such a dedicated fan base. While I loved the security in knowing I can get a great shave with both eyes closed, it was not sufficient to convert me to being a full on mild razors user, I would much prefer to shave with a razor that sits a couple of notches further up the Karve efficiency ladder. Sorry, almost forgot - it’s that handle that’s different and that’s what is really being checking out on this razor. Well, the handle clamped the head down firmly, provided reasonable grip and didn’t break in half so it done exactly what it’s supposed to do. Like Grandpa’s Razor is not for me, just another razor.

Blades Used – Gillette Nacet and Willy’s

Material – Brass

Weight – 106.7g

Blade Tab - Exposed

Head Width – 40.64mm

Handle Length – 90.06mm

Handle Diameter – 12.09mm

Availability – Like Grandpa

Final Word – Grandpa’s feather bed
Click to expand...
I’m probably late to this party but why have Karve “ blacklisted” Australia for sales and supply of their product?
 
Mycroft47 said:
I’m probably late to this party but why have Karve “ blacklisted” Australia for sales and supply of their product?
Click to expand...
For a long time orders from Karve have been stopped and I didn’t really know why. Your order prompted me to try again; I have just purchased a Stainless steel Karve Overlander that I didn’t really want. Australia must be now off the black list.
 
Errol said:
For a long time orders from Karve have been stopped and I didn’t really know why. Your order prompted me to try again; I have just purchased a Stainless steel Karve Overlander that I didn’t really want. Australia must be now off the black list.
Click to expand...
That’s good to hear, I purchased the Karve CB OC #3 plate in brass long before the later variants (SS & Al) were available and I have to say it does not get the love it deserves Nowadays. Anyways great review as always, thanks.
 
Darwin Popular (England)



I admit to checking the availability of Darwin razors regularly however the Popular was never on my radar, but when one came up at auction, I submitted the winning offer. Great, it’s in Canada and the photos show it to be in a used condition. I’ve only once previously had a razor refurbished so here was an excellent opportunity to expand my learning with something different. It was directed straight to Razor Emporium for them to weave their magic before I even laid eyes on it, I might as well go the whole hog and have it revamped. Originally the Popular was chrome plated brass but this one will now be plated in rhodium; I hope I’ve done the right thing. Fear not Young Errol, an email from Razor Emporium “Unfortunately after looking over this razor we have determined it is made of zinc. We are not able to plate zinc. I will send this to the shipping department to send back to you.” Bugger, or words to that effect. An inspection of the razor on receipt revealed that the plate is retained to the handle by a flare at its end making it a two piece razor. I appreciate that a swivel joint cannot be electroplated successfully, so had I been informed of that, I would have fully understood; not some beat up story about it being zinc.

Despite this model being called the Popular, it’s a relatively rare razor and this is the first time I’ve seen one offered for sale. Maybe Razor Emporium were correct, they are zinc and have all rotted away? Light engraving on the handle could be the real reason, no one realises what they have and simply thrown them away. Age wise, it was built sometime in the 1940’s, but its pedigree is obscure; for reasons unknown to me, there is very little history on this particular razor. Darwin’s Popular is said to have been built with the same old school thoughts on adjustability as the Eclipse Red Ring, unscrewing the handle increases efficiency. While the sellers’ photos showed a razor that was worn from use, in real life the cap has three circles from the blade and handle posts and it‘s easily seen to have been worked. Having said that, I’m pleased now that Razor Emporium screwed their nose up at it.

Adjustable? Thinking that this is an adjustable razor with no engraved alignment, I marked a top point on the handle as an index mark with a blade inserted. There’s something’s not quite right about the idea that this razor is an adjustable, there is less than ¼ turn of the handle before it becomes too loose on the thread to hold position. My first pass was with the handle screwed down firmly; I certainly don’t require any more efficiency than this and there was more than adequate positive blade. I don’t think this razor could ever be classed as adjustable. Efficiency wise, the Popular was around Karve CB level #D but the generous blade feel made it feel more efficient. Yes, there were a couple of nicks on the first pass, must slow down and pay attention to what I’m doing. Slowing down and paying attention made the razor feel so much more acceptable. I worked on the principle that it can’t be a bad razor; for the razor to have this much wear, someone has used this Popular a lot. The shaves were certainly not smooth but by hell they were close, this an aggressive but usable vintage razor if you don’t mind positive blade.

Blades Used – Gillette Super Stainless and Muhle

Material – Chrome plated brass

Weight – 55g

Blade Tab - Exposed

Head Width – 41.57mm

Handle Length – 79.31mm

Handle Diameter – 9.54mm

Availability – Out of production

Final Word – Take it steady
 
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