Weekly Razor Review

Errol said:
Homelike Start 2 – 1.40mm (Russia)



My Start 2 was in my hands before sanctions on Russian goods were announced. Homelike describe the Start 2 as the next stage in the development of the Start; an update without changing the main geometry so I’ve selected a plate not used previously – the 1.40mm plate. With both the Start and the Start 2 laid out in front of me, the visual difference is the addition of machining to the edge of the plate on the Start 2, there’s none on the Start. Wide blade clamping flats do a great job of clamping the blade at the outer extremity of the cap. Sure, there are cosmetic changes, engraved information on the back of the plate, different finishes, polished this time and fitted with a Wolfman WRH7 inspired handle, but not a lot of visual change to the head. Homelike advertise a machine polished finish and it is very well executed even if they did miss the underside of the cap altogether.

Eight hours later and I was still rubbing my chin and smirking to myself at how good the shave felt; just under Karve CB Level #D efficiency, smooth and certainly close, the Start 2 fitted with the 1.40mm plate provided me with brilliant shaves. There was some blade feel, very pleasant and well within my comfort zone. An inspiring feature of the Start 2 was how solid it felt and with its WRH7 styled handle fitted was balanced right on that front grip section. As is to be expected, the web site was not working when I checked recently, so explaining how good the Homelike Start 2 is of little use as they cannot be purchased. I’m looking forward to the sanctions being lifted so I can order a couple (well at least one) of the OC plates that were previously advertised, I enjoyed the Start 2 and have now found at least one plate in their inventory that suit my requirement.

Blades Used – Derby Extra and Sputnik

Material – AISI 316L Stainless Steel

Blade Tab – Covered

Weight – 112mm

Head Width – 43.15mm

Handle Length – 95.04mm

Handle Diameter – 14.23mm

Availability – Sanctioned out

Final Word – Impressive
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Awesome review! My OG START/CTAPT is one of my favourite razors, glad to hear the START 2 is also good
 
Oceanus Brass Stateroom OC (USA)



If I was sailing off to that tropical island paradise, I’m pretty sure the razor I would be reaching for would be one that could be easily replace should/ when something unforeseen happened. Oceanus Brass specialize in all things marine and identified the requirement for a special nautical razor so set out to design and machine a dedicated nautical razor; in their wisdom they identified that a bow shackle in the end of the handle would marinize a rather humdrum looking three piece razor. Maybe a copy of some Gillette razor, but for me it looks like an OC version of a RazoRock BBS but wherever the design may have originated, Oceanus Brass have machined a head that maximizes blade clamping ensuring the blade is firmly clamped over a circular plate.

I’m on a different level to Oceanus Brass and do not know what I am going to use the bow shackle for during my shave. While in place for the photo, the said bow shackle was removed before I started shaving, the last distraction needed while shaving is a shackle flopping around in the end of the handle while concentrating on a pass. It was a very pleasant feel from the OC teeth that caressed my face during each stroke and with the Storeman’s efficiency on the high side of Karve CB level #C and a small amount of blade protrusion, the shave was very satisfying. Being a pencil thin handle with only one spiral groove running along its length, control of the razor was not good. I had to concentrate to ensure that the head was correctly positioned before commencing each stroke. For what is likely to be a one off razor, Oceanus Brass did a commendable job with their first attempt at machining a razor. If they decided to refine the design, I would suggest concentrating on the handle, a bit more girth and a bit of grip on the handle would be appreciated; more girth would no doubt provide more grip.

Blades Used – Gillette Wilkinson and Gillette Platinum

Material – Brass

Blade Tab - Covered

Weight – 90g with bow shackle fitted

Head Width – 43.85mm

Handle Length – 89.99mm

Handle Diameter – 8.77mm

Availability – Oceanus Brass

Final Word – Start saving for a yacht
 
Errol said:
Oceanus Brass Stateroom OC (USA)



If I was sailing off to that tropical island paradise, I’m pretty sure the razor I would be reaching for would be one that could be easily replace should/ when something unforeseen happened. Oceanus Brass specialize in all things marine and identified the requirement for a special nautical razor so set out to design and machine a dedicated nautical razor; in their wisdom they identified that a bow shackle in the end of the handle would marinize a rather humdrum looking three piece razor. Maybe a copy of some Gillette razor, but for me it looks like an OC version of a RazoRock BBS but wherever the design may have originated, Oceanus Brass have machined a head that maximizes blade clamping ensuring the blade is firmly clamped over a circular plate.

I’m on a different level to Oceanus Brass and do not know what I am going to use the bow shackle for during my shave. While in place for the photo, the said bow shackle was removed before I started shaving, the last distraction needed while shaving is a shackle flopping around in the end of the handle while concentrating on a pass. It was a very pleasant feel from the OC teeth that caressed my face during each stroke and with the Storeman’s efficiency on the high side of Karve CB level #C and a small amount of blade protrusion, the shave was very satisfying. Being a pencil thin handle with only one spiral groove running along its length, control of the razor was not good. I had to concentrate to ensure that the head was correctly positioned before commencing each stroke. For what is likely to be a one off razor, Oceanus Brass did a commendable job with their first attempt at machining a razor. If they decided to refine the design, I would suggest concentrating on the handle, a bit more girth and a bit of grip on the handle would be appreciated; more girth would no doubt provide more grip.

Blades Used – Gillette Wilkinson and Gillette Platinum

Material – Brass

Blade Tab - Covered

Weight – 90g with bow shackle fitted

Head Width – 43.85mm

Handle Length – 89.99mm

Handle Diameter – 8.77mm

Availability – Oceanus Brass

Final Word – Start saving for a yacht
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I'm completely confused..... Why on earth would anybody need a bloody shackle?
 
Blackland Era #4 OC (USA)



Additive engineered, or more commonly known as 3D printing is the production process utilized in the manufacture of the Blackland Era. As the name suggests material is added to form the part rather than the age old process of removing material from a solid block by such means as cutting, drilling, milling etc. Additive engineering is said to be very accurate, more flexible and efficient to manufacture, therefore there are cost savings. Some of these production cost savings have been passed onto the customer by Blackland resulting in a reasonably priced razor. Light weight is the word when talking about the head, the cap is particularly light with wide flats at the out edge and noticeably rounded corners, no one is going to get scratched by a corner on the Era. There is also no excess metal on the plate, it is a simple affair with wide blade clamping flats, the brand name, country of origin, and the aggression level printed during the 3D process. Blackland did not spend a lot of coin in designing the handle, it is a simple cylindrical shape with six circumferential grooves at the front and a Blackland flare towards the neck plus there is a hole visible in the end. One thing that did not impress was the quality of the thread engagement, it is by far the sloppiest fitting thread I’ve found on any Blackland razor, I class the thread engagement as poor. Supplied with the razor were six ‘O’ rings that would fit the handle grooves, but I never fitted them; with the satin like finish, I did not see a requirement. In fact, the whole razor has that same satin look and feel. Recently it was advised that the Era would be discontinued due to supply issues and all the popular plates are now sold off.

Now, the most important part, to check the Era’s performance and investigate a razor manufactured using the 3D printed stainless steel process. When I ordered the Era, OC and SB versions of the top three available aggression levels were acquired, and for this review I will be using the #4 OC, the second highest level of plate. Straight up, the Era #4 OC is one very handy performer that performed flawlessly throughout the period it was being tested. Just under Karve CB #D efficiency, a handy but usable amount of blade feel and ‘smooth as’ are the recipe for a very pleasing shave and the open comb was barely noticeable in use; to the Era’s credit it delivered a very close shave. I enjoyed the razor enough to say that it is a better performer than either of Blackland’s own Blackbird or Dart models so I would be very enthusiastic about a machined version if Blackland ever went down that path. With the pin being pulled on Era production, it is probably too early to make a determination if 3D printed stainless steel is the future of razor production. 3D printing has many advantages in manufacture, so I feel confident this razor won’t be the last printed razor, someone is bound to try again.

Blades Used – Gillette Minora and Derby Extra

Material – Stainless Steel

Blade Tab – Slightly exposed

Weight – 100g

Head Width – 42.28mm

Handle Length – 88.95mm

Handle Diameter – 11.98mm

Availability – Discontinued

Final Word – Will be missed
 
Errol said:
Blackland Era #4 OC (USA)



Additive engineered, or more commonly known as 3D printing is the production process utilized in the manufacture of the Blackland Era. As the name suggests material is added to form the part rather than the age old process of removing material from a solid block by such means as cutting, drilling, milling etc. Additive engineering is said to be very accurate, more flexible and efficient to manufacture, therefore there are cost savings. Some of these production cost savings have been passed onto the customer by Blackland resulting in a reasonably priced razor. Light weight is the word when talking about the head, the cap is particularly light with wide flats at the out edge and noticeably rounded corners, no one is going to get scratched by a corner on the Era. There is also no excess metal on the plate, it is a simple affair with wide blade clamping flats, the brand name, country of origin, and the aggression level printed during the 3D process. Blackland did not spend a lot of coin in designing the handle, it is a simple cylindrical shape with six circumferential grooves at the front and a Blackland flare towards the neck plus there is a hole visible in the end. One thing that did not impress was the quality of the thread engagement, it is by far the sloppiest fitting thread I’ve found on any Blackland razor, I class the thread engagement as poor. Supplied with the razor were six ‘O’ rings that would fit the handle grooves, but I never fitted them; with the satin like finish, I did not see a requirement. In fact, the whole razor has that same satin look and feel. Recently it was advised that the Era would be discontinued due to supply issues and all the popular plates are now sold off.

Now, the most important part, to check the Era’s performance and investigate a razor manufactured using the 3D printed stainless steel process. When I ordered the Era, OC and SB versions of the top three available aggression levels were acquired, and for this review I will be using the #4 OC, the second highest level of plate. Straight up, the Era #4 OC is one very handy performer that performed flawlessly throughout the period it was being tested. Just under Karve CB #D efficiency, a handy but usable amount of blade feel and ‘smooth as’ are the recipe for a very pleasing shave and the open comb was barely noticeable in use; to the Era’s credit it delivered a very close shave. I enjoyed the razor enough to say that it is a better performer than either of Blackland’s own Blackbird or Dart models so I would be very enthusiastic about a machined version if Blackland ever went down that path. With the pin being pulled on Era production, it is probably too early to make a determination if 3D printed stainless steel is the future of razor production. 3D printing has many advantages in manufacture, so I feel confident this razor won’t be the last printed razor, someone is bound to try again.

Blades Used – Gillette Minora and Derby Extra

Material – Stainless Steel

Blade Tab – Slightly exposed

Weight – 100g

Head Width – 42.28mm

Handle Length – 88.95mm

Handle Diameter – 11.98mm

Availability – Discontinued

Final Word – Will be missed
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Another superb review @Errol, and totally in line with my own experience with the ERA. I have plates L4 SB, L4 OC, L5 SB and L5 OC. I would classify the L4 OC as a daily driver.
 
Wet Shaving Club The Winning (USA)



Wet Shaving Club has a habit of releasing fully machined stainless steel razors at rock bottom prices. Their Winning model was one such example that is said to have been machined by Yates Precision Manufacturing but after a relatively short life has now been dropped from their inventory; in this review I will be having a look at what has been was missed out on by its demise. On the positive side, The Winning is stainless steel, has a machine finished and has large blade clamping flats on the cap and plate. It’s great to have large blade clamping flats but they would have been far more effective had they aligned instead of overlapping. The Winning’s head is heavy, big and beefy with an initial steep angle on the cap and then a series of flat surfaces over the cap; without a whole lot of thinking material could have been removed from many places to lighten its weight. Worse though is the plate, it’s heavy with a row of the smallest lather clearing holes to be seen on any razor. Not a whole lot of effort went into the design of the handle, it’s a good length but its round with four forward machined grooves and it relies on its surface finish for the majority of grip. Every machining process adds to the final price so Wet Shaving has designed the razor to be machined with the least number of operations; this razor was most certainly machined to a price.

Produced as an entry level razor, it would be unlikely for someone purchasing The Winning razor to select top shelf blades; a bit of thinking and I came up a Bic blade and a Gillette Wilkinson blade to test The Winning. I was a little taken back but pleasantly surprised when on the first stroke I found I had a razor that had a bit of functionality and was not the useless, super mild razor I had half expected from a beginner razor. Efficiency was in the mid Karve CB level #C/ level #D range with a pleasant amount of blade feel that resulted in a shave that was both smooth and close. The Winning’s heavy head design puts its balance point close to the head; I can deal with that but the steep angled flats on the cap would ride on the face causing the blade to lift from the face thus making maintenance of the shave angle critical. Other than head weight and the critical shave angle aspect, the Winning performed well and felt very similar with either of the blades used. Wet Shaving Club have kept the Mercia in their line up so hopefully the loss of The Wining will be covered by the Mercia’s ability.

Blades Used – Bic and Gillette Wilkinson

Material – Stainless steel

Blade Tab - Covered

Weight – 118g

Head Width – 44.52mm

Handle Length – 85.06mm

Handle Diameter – 11.94mm

Availability – Discontinued

Final Word – Not a great loss
 
Focus Tritok Concave R62 (Italy)



In the Tritok series of Focus razors there are two material choices and three different head styles available, Flat, Concave and Slant; this week I’ve selected the Tritok Concave R62 machined from 316 Stainless Steel. Its design does not place any significant bend in the blade, but there is some and it’s very noticeable when compared alongside the flat. Blade clamping is achieved over almost the entire surface areas between the cap and plate. Machining tolerances are not what they could be (maybe too tight) but something is amiss in the alignment between the cap and the plate; in one direction, separation of the cap from the plate requires a reasonable amount of force, swapped around and separation can be achieved by hand but it is still firm. Whichever direction the cap was fitted, the blade was always square and parallel to the edge of the cap. Except for the satin finish on the underside of the cap, a standout polished finish has been achieved on all parts of the razor. I’m going to suggest that this is a machine polish because the polished finish extends to the knurling. Focus has etched model information onto the top of the cap and into the handle.

With its efficiency in the Karve CB level #C region, the R62 was super smooth and it shaved very close without effort. There was only a hint of blade protrusion, but it was enough to satisfy me, any less though and it’d be a different story. Fitting the Feather blade to the Focus transformed it into one incredible razor, upping the ante in all areas of performance, a match made in heaven. Currently there is no option for plate swapping so I’m stuck with what I have but I would like to have a little more efficiency. Hint, hint - Mr Focus, I will be sending you a link to this review. While I would prefer a little more efficiency, the Concave R62 is an excellent razor that really performed especially with a Feather blade fitted.

Blades Used – Gillette Nacet and Feather

Material – 316 Stainless Steel

Blade Tab - Covered

Weight – 115g

Head Width – 44.03mm

Handle Length – 90.95mm

Handle Diameter – 14.02mm

Availability – Focus

Final Word – A delight
 
klinker said:
However, it doesn't look like the same head as the Yates 921.
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Sorry, I am over a week late. I don't have both, so I don't know how Drakkant/'Merica razor and similar Yates made razor heads compare to the Yates 921 and its many plates. Supposedly most are milder than his already "medium", I would rather call it "mild", M plate.
 
Morholt said:
Sorry, I am over a week late. I don't have both, so I don't know how Drakkant/'Merica razor and similar Yates made razor heads compare to the Yates 921 and its many plates. Supposedly most are milder than his already "medium", I would rather call it "mild", M plate.
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I wouldn’t worry about it, just another bloody razor
 
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