Weekly Razor Review

Errol said:
Blackland Blackbird Brass OC (USA)



If you’re looking for a brass Blackbird, start checking BST and other outlets for second hand razors, Blackland have deleted the Brassbird from their range. Both my brass Blackbirds (SB and OC variants) were purchased at their release in 2019. A 100mm handle was released at the same time, and as I didn’t have a 100mm Blackbird handle I selected it for this razor. Polished versions of the brass Blackbird came along well after I purchased mine, therefore my brass Blackbird OC is the machine finished version. There is nothing to complain about with the machine finish, it is very well executed and gives the razor a satin look and positive feel. All parts fit together perfectly as is expected from a premium supplier such as Blackland. Other than being machined from brass and the additional length on the handle, there is no visual differences between it and the stainless steel or titanium versions.

Ahh!! Now that’s a Blackbird. It’s no wonder I have such fond memories of shaving with a Blackbird, this razor meets my parameters as to how a razor should perform. With a little more than Karve CB level #D efficiency and a generous amount of positive blade, the Brassbird simply mows down every whisker. For some reason (maybe the Personna blade) this Brassbird feels more aggressive than the other Blackbird versions previously used, not much, but it is noticeable. There is little sensation that an open comb razor is being deployed, the shave was reasonably smooth and there is no need to declare that it was close. In general, I would not choose a 100mm long handle when there is a shorter option, but the extra length in the 100mm long handle had little effect on the shave. Every time I use a Blackbird I’m impressed by its consistency in delivering a superb shave, the Brassbird is no different.

Blades Used – Personna Platinum and Gillette Super Thin

Material – Brass

Blade Tab - Exposed

Weight – 118.7g

Head Width – 42.09mm

Handle Length – 101.25mm

Handle Diameter – 10.88mm

Availability – Out of production

Final Word – That’s a Blackbird
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Blackland have now made the Brass version of the Blackbird a new standard offering that will be available all year round but not only that it now has a different finish which is said to help create a more consistent patina on the razor in time. They have also now made available lite base plates in brass too.

Happy days for brass and Blackbird lovers alike.
 
Gillette Single Ring – 1915 (USA)



1915 – With my limited non-existent knowledge of Gillette razors, when I’m told it’s a 1915 Single Ring, I’ve little option but to believe them, so for me this is a Gillette Single Ring that was made in 1915. Both the plate and cap are a thin brass plates that have been rolled and tapered at their outer extremities thus making the head very light. Long bullet shaped blade posts on the cap protrude through alignment holes in the plate with its open comb to complete the head. This is a three piece razor where the top section of the handle and the plate are joined to be one piece. An extension on the knob at the end of the handle reaches through the hollow handle to screw into a longish length centre blade post on the cap. A very fine knurl is present on the shaft of the handle while a somewhat coarser knurl is used on the knob. This old razor is a bit battered, worn and tarnished, but in its heyday, would have looked spectacular with its plated finish.

Gillette’s Single Ring razors were not designed for the razor blades we use today, the original Gillette blades were thicker and more rigid. I don’t have any of the original Gillette blades so I’m not going to experience exactly what our forefathers experienced, but it’ll be as close as I can manage using blades that are available today. By my way of thinking, the thinner modern blade should result in a less harsh shave than the original so there is a chance I might survive. It was not the best shave I’ve ever had but it certainly wasn’t the worst either, efficiency was around Karve CB level #D and there was a reasonable amount of blade feel. What I found most off-putting was that each tooth could be felt on every stroke; not only felt but they were sharpish and not at all smooth. As expected, the shave was close and each shave resulted in razor burn, something I don’t experience often. While the Single Ring always felt usable, it would not be my choice for an everyday razor. I now have a much healthier respect for our forefathers who pioneered disposable blade shaving and ushered us down the road to where we are today.

Blades Used – Gillette Super Stainless White and Royal II

Material – Brass and plated

Blade Tab - Exposed

Weight – 50.1g

Head Width – 39.97mm

Handle Length – 78.76mm

Handle Diameter – 9.7mm

Availability – Out of production

Final Word – A bit rough around the edges
 
Errol said:
Gillette Single Ring – 1915 (USA)



1915 – With my limited non-existent knowledge of Gillette razors, when I’m told it’s a 1915 Single Ring, I’ve little option but to believe them, so for me this is a Gillette Single Ring that was made in 1915. Both the plate and cap are a thin brass plates that have been rolled and tapered at their outer extremities thus making the head very light. Long bullet shaped blade posts on the cap protrude through alignment holes in the plate with its open comb to complete the head. This is a three piece razor where the top section of the handle and the plate are joined to be one piece. An extension on the knob at the end of the handle reaches through the hollow handle to screw into a longish length centre blade post on the cap. A very fine knurl is present on the shaft of the handle while a somewhat coarser knurl is used on the knob. This old razor is a bit battered, worn and tarnished, but in its heyday, would have looked spectacular with its plated finish.

Gillette’s Single Ring razors were not designed for the razor blades we use today, the original Gillette blades were thicker and more rigid. I don’t have any of the original Gillette blades so I’m not going to experience exactly what our forefathers experienced, but it’ll be as close as I can manage using blades that are available today. By my way of thinking, the thinner modern blade should result in a less harsh shave than the original so there is a chance I might survive. It was not the best shave I’ve ever had but it certainly wasn’t the worst either, efficiency was around Karve CB level #D and there was a reasonable amount of blade feel. What I found most off-putting was that each tooth could be felt on every stroke; not only felt but they were sharpish and not at all smooth. As expected, the shave was close and each shave resulted in razor burn, something I don’t experience often. While the Single Ring always felt usable, it would not be my choice for an everyday razor. I now have a much healthier respect for our forefathers who pioneered disposable blade shaving and ushered us down the road to where we are today.

Blades Used – Gillette Super Stainless White and Royal II

Material – Brass and plated

Blade Tab - Exposed

Weight – 50.1g

Head Width – 39.97mm

Handle Length – 78.76mm

Handle Diameter – 9.7mm

Availability – Out of production

Final Word – A bit rough around the edges
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Very much my experience @Errol !

Many people use a shim from a used blade to add thickness to the modern blades so they replicate the thicker original blades.

It was a revolution coming from a straight razor to these for the original users I'm sure. You can read the story of one of those early users here.

The Weekly Razor Review Index, which has the whole range of reviews in alphabetical order, has been updated and split into more posts as @Errol just keeps producing them!
 
Pearl Hammer (India)

https://imgur.com/a/Sgme3ne

Pearl Hammer – Hammer, they got that bit right; this thing could be used to drive in railway spikes! It was a low price purchase, and it didn’t take long to see why. Pearl done a creditable job with the cap, but I thought they had made the handle post far too short till I looked at all the excess material in the plate, it’s way thicker than it ought to be, the handle post gets lost in the mass. I offer two solutions to cure the overweight problem with the plate, simply remove about 2.5mm off the back of the plate or recess the back of the plate, about 19mm wide by 3mm deep. I prefer the second option, not only would it improve the appearance of the razor, but it would also reduce the weight of the head to a pleasant level. While it’s thick, long, and heavy, I’m still in awe of the overall layout of the handle, a bulbous flare at the front, crossed spiralling along its body and a bulb at the rear, very India. If it could have been made 15mm shorter, there’s an immediate weight saving, and if Pearl ran an 8mm hole through the centre of the handle, I wouldn’t have to take out a gym membership. Pearl - get that weight down to under the 100g mark; I might get a job as the idea’s man for Pearl Razors if I keep going here. Under the triple plated exterior is a brass chassis and to Pearl’s credit there is not a machine mark to be seen. For this review I’m using the SB plate, but the Hammer was also supplied with an OC plate.

That heavy handle made its presence felt immediately. This is a heavy razor and when combined with the longish handle made the razor feel clumsy and awkward in use. The Hammer surprised me with how efficient it was, it almost felt like I was using the ATT with the H1 plate fitted again; efficiency is on the positive side of Karve CB level #D and there is ample blade feel. There is no doubt the shave was close and while the shave could not be described as smooth, it felt safe and there were not too many dramas. Pearl’s Hammer will never be a daily driver for many, but it is a razor that I could use quite comfortably in my shave every two day cycle, if only Pearl could trim some of the fat from it.

Blades Used – Glatz and Gillette Super Stainless White

Material – Brass - triple plated

Blade Tab - Covered

Weight – 140g

Head Width – 43.54mm

Handle Length – 99.56mm

Handle Diameter – 13.96mm

Availability – Maggards Razors, now at Artisan Arcade

Final Word – Rugged
 
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Carbon Shaving Model Cx - Brass 1.08 (++) Errol (USA)



In December last year Carbon added a brass Cx to their range, I haven’t used their ++ plate so here was the perfect opportunity to purchase the brass Cx and fit it with a ++ plate so I could experience it for myself. You’d think a razor purchase would be a simple procedure for someone like me who buys the odd razor, but take a look at some of the correspondence between myself and Sean from Carbon:

Errol – “I was about to purchase a brass Cx this morning. All good, till I got to the plate selection. I was after a 1.08mm ++, simple. What are the names after the plate size, Shoup, Ross, Blade and Mason. I cannot see reference to them in the web site. Hope you can clear this up for me.”

Sean – “Thanks Errol...appreciate the support. We add a unique serial number or a unique name to each of our pieces. I have another ++(1.08mm) plate left...Cx-Viper. I was about to add it online but happy to invoice you separately.”

Errol – “I had no idea what was going on although they did look like names. How’s the chance of an Errol on a ++ 108mm. If no, I’ll take the Viper.”

Sean – “If you give me a few weeks I can do a ++ with Cx-Errol for you.”

This is the first razor I have with my name on it - poor razor. Maybe I should not be blowing my horn too loudly, the ERROL is there all right, on the bottom web of the plate. It is so small that a magnifying glass is required to read it, I was thinking that the ERROL would be up there loud and proud for all the world to see. All the usual Carbon Cx attributes are there, light weight head, web plate, quality machining, blade clamping at the very edge of the cap, a standout polished finish except under the cap and a handle, even with the grooves around the working surfaces, it still has an unmistakable Carbon family look to it.

It was totally unexpected that I would enjoy using the ++ plate as much as I did. After choosing the standard plate in the first few Carbon Cx razors I tested, I was more than satisfied with their performance. I then had the opportunity to use the + plate and found it to be equally as satisfying. Moving onto the ++ plate in the Brass Carbon Cx and I’m again overwhelmed by how comfortable the shaves were. With efficiency around the Karve CB Level #D and a sweet amount of positive blade, the shave was both close and smooth. I cannot/ will not nominate a favourite amongst the Carbon Cx plates I’ve used, they all delivered exceptional results. For curiosity’s sake, I now want to sample their -/Mild Base Plate, can it be as good? With Carbon’s production quality up with the best and its superb shaving delivery, the Brass Cx ++ 1.08mm is a champion. By my way of reasoning, having ERROL engraved in the plate certainly helped also.

Blades Used – Schick and Gillette Silver Blue

Material – Brass

Blade Tab - Exposed

Weight – 91.1g

Head Width – 40.69mm

Handle Length – 91.46mm

Handle Diameter – 42.42mm

Availability – Carbon

Final Word – Exceptional
 
Blutt BR1 Rasur - 1.20mm Polished (Switzerland)



When I purchased my first Blutt razor the 1.20mm plate was not an option. I’ve been offered the loan of a 1.20mm plate and often thought about just buying one, but there were rumours of a titanium version so I figured that the 1.20mm plate would be the perfect fit for the titanium. Despite waiting a couple of years and exchanging emails with Blutt in that time, a titanium BR-1 has not materialized. Earlier this year, Blutt released a polished version of their BR-1 so why not fit a 1.20mm plate to one of them and give it a whirl. It's not classified as a second generation BR-1 but there are some changes between this razor and the original version. Firstly, a change from 303 stainless steel to 316L stainless steel and the deep spirals on the forward section of the handle have been replaced by much shallower swirls, there are no other obvious visual changes. Blutt’s BR-1 was my Razor of the Year in 2021 because of its exceptional credentials, blade clamping near the edge of the plate, super light weight head, extended cap covering the blade tab, detailed design, and intricate machining are just some of its virtues. This version expands on those attributes with a high quality polished finish, except under the cap where a matt finish adds to the mystique. Blutt advise that the underside of the cap was not polished to maintain their tight machining tolerances. The cap’s underside has again been utilized as the place to engrave model details and to proudly proclaim that the BR-1 was Swiss made. This is an exceptionally high quality made razor.

It's been noted that a couple of members who usually don’t migrate too far north of medium efficiency razors have been regularly fronting up using their 1.20mm plated BR1’s in Shave of The Day. That, combined with my previous experience with the Blutt have me expecting big things from this razor. There was to be no disappointment, the BR1 was faultless in its shave delivery; no more than Karve CB Level #D efficiency, unbelievably smooth and auto drive all the way. First shave and I’m in dream land, blissfully shaving away when it suddenly dawned on me that I’m supposed to be reviewing this razor and not just along for the ride; too late, I might as well enjoy it while I can. Trouble was, this was not the only time I lapsed into dream land, this razor is so relaxing to use. It’s hard not to enjoy the BR1 with its pleasant positive blade making for a close shave. It’s a couple of years since I used a Blutt fitted with the 0.99mm plate and from memory there is not a huge step up in efficiency to the 1.20mm plate. Blutt’s BR1 is not cheap but it is a razor that joins an exclusive band at the pinnacle of premium hardware.

Blades Used – Gillette Minora and Wizamet Polsilver

Material – 316L Stainless Steel

Blade Tab - Covered

Weight – 95.3g

Head Width – 42.92mm

Handle Length – 89.99mm

Handle Diameter – 11.95mm

Availability – Blutt

Final Word – Exceptional
 
Another great review @Errol!

For those wondering, 316L is reported to provide greater durability and corrosion resistance than 303, however I suspect that the impact will be marginal in our use case as razors. It might mean the difference between the great, great, great, great, great, great, grandchild using it and the one after that!

I have the 1.20 mm as my first plate and have since acquired the 0.86 mm and 0.99 mm. The 0.86 mm was noticeably milder and the 0.99 mm seemed a big step up during my first week of use. In fact it seemed harsher than the 1.20 mm. Changing blades, but remaining of the same type, changed my perception, I think a dud blade may have been involved. I could certainly comfortably use the 0.86 mm or 0.99 mm as my regular daily razor, with very little between them. Time to use the 1.20 mm again next week to compare!

Having resisted much of the hype around modern razors which all seems to be variations on a theme, the MÜHLE Rocca R95 Birch Bark Handle attracts me because of the aesthetics and the Blutt BR1 because of the understated Swiss style and precision.
 
Mark1966 said:
Having resisted much of the hype around modern razors which all seems to be variations on a theme, the MÜHLE Rocca R95 Birch Bark Handle attracts me because of the aesthetics and the Blutt BR1 because of the understated Swiss style and precision.
Click to expand...
Along with the Blackbird I consider the rocca birch and Blutt prime examples of their respective design aesthetic ie American v German v Swiss.
 
I came so close to buying a Blutt razor but talks between Blutt and I broke down. There was no bad word said just that there was a lot going on in each of our lives at the time and I probably came across as a time waster. I will say that the staff at Blutt were very helpful and generous with their support and offer to me to have a Blutt razor which is why I also fully intend to buy one at some point when I am financially capable and then also reach out to Blutt again to thank them after the purchase.

The reason why the handle design was changed is because the twist design had a low quality yield so they changed the design so as not to waste materials. The ones that they did release were up to their very high standards so if you have one of those then you should be happy. They did say that they may revisit a deeper knurling handle some day but that may be some more time down the line.

I am honestly yet to see a bad word about Blutt razors in regard to the quality of the shaves and razor itself. Yes, they are expensive but they seem to be well worth it.
The Blutt is definitely right up my alley but give me a few moments and I could sight several other razors I would love to own too. haha.
It was so very close to being in my collection that I can't help but feel a bit stupid about not being able to see that deal through.

It's definitely encouraging to hear so many great words from many here about it.
 
Bronze Age Achilles (USA)



The Bronze Age was a period in history where bronze, an alloy consisting primarily of copper and tin was being utilized to make all manner of tools and weapons of war. When someone chooses to name their product Bronze Age, their razor would be made from bronze, wouldn’t it? Hell no! Sorry, its steel. But it’s not any old steel, it’s Pittsburgh steel!!! Bronze Age’s advertising doesn’t even mention whether its stainless steel or not. Information on the packaging declares that it is made of stainless steel; just as well, because I was going to get a bottle of sea water and sit the Achilles in it for a week. Information on the packaging also states that the handle is brass. It’s been plated and matches the satin finish on the head very closely, but I’m not totally convinced that the whole razor is not brass and plated. At a time where razor heads are becoming flatter and excess material is being removed, the Achilles presents with a huge head, its round cap extends well forward of the blade line and the plate is unnecessarily thick. While a relief has been machined along the length of the plate, there is still a lot of metal in the plate. Blade clamping is well inside the edge of the cap against rails on the top of the plate. I’m trying to think of something positive to say about the handle, but it looks horrible. Hang on!!! hang on!! hang on! I found something; you probably won’t need to purchase a stand for the Achilles. It has this ugly, mushroomed blob on its end that will act as a stand. Bronze Age have utilized that flat on the bottom of the blob to engrave their razor information. To finish off the handle, wide, deep grooves have been machined into its length, they look very agricultural, but they will probably provide good grip. Just like the Blackbird, the forward end of the handle is recessed into the back of the plate thus limiting the choice of handles. It’s not a visually pleasing recess like the Blackbird, it’s one big hole. I’ve been a little negative in describing the Achilles but one positive with the Bronze Ages is that the thread engagement is very smooth. Weight? Ahhh!!! I’m not even going to go there, just get it down below 100g. This has to be the worst looking razor released to the shaving public in the last decade, Gawd it’s ugly.

I had a bit of a chuckle to myself when I seen that the Achilles came with a couple of Viking Blades but having never heard of them, I chose to leave them in their packet. Bronze Age might have missed the boat in the looks department but by hell, they got the shaving part right, such an ugly looking razor has no right to shave so well. With its Karve CB level #C efficiency, the shave was pleasantly smooth. There’s not a lot of blade feel but it’s there, it’s positive and it is well proportioned. That blob on the handle was a pain in the rear end and it got tangled up with me or I got tangled up with it on more than one occasion, I could do without it. Come on Bronze Age, a little bit of refinement here and you’ve got the basis of a good razor. It just goes to prove once again that you can’t judge a book by its cover.

Blades Used – Gillette Super Thin and Mekur Super Platinum

Material – Stainless Steel/ plated brass handle

Blade Tab – Exposed

Weight – 140.6g

Head Width – 41.36mm

Handle Length – 94.52mm

Handle Diameter – 18.85mm

Availability – Bronze Age

Final Word – Primitive
 
Le Maurice Bronze 1.4 (France)



This bronze Le Maurice was purchased at the same time as my titanium version and they were shipped together to reduce postage costs. It was ordered with the 1.4mm gap, smooth/ smooth base plate, hollow handle and polished. There are no obvious differences in the design of the heads in any of the three versions of the Le Maurice that I have, five lather grooves down each side of the plate, machined out sections in both the plate, cap and blade clamping at the very edge of the cap and perfect thread engagement. Where the Titanium was supplied in its little cloth pouch, the polished Bronze razor came with each individual piece wrapped in a pinkish coloured tissue paper and then put in the little cloth pouch, all to protect that super bright polished exterior. It was interesting to note that while the Bronze Le Maurice was being assembled, the drilled out handle acted as a tiny bell emitting a pleasant tinkle until the thread starts to take up.

I’ve previous enjoyed the shaves from Le Maurice razors fitted with 1.0 and 1.2 plates but they left me feeling like there was more there to give. It’s pleasing to see that the 1.4 has stepped forward and delivered what I have been searching for from a Le Maurice razor, a superb shave that in no way can be described as aggressive. Efficiency remains in the under Karve CB Level #D range and is coupled with a low amount of positive blade feel making it one of those razors that slips easily into auto pilot. This confidence in the razors ability resulted in an especially smooth and close shave. While there is no excess metal in the head, it still has the appearance of a nuggety little razor especially with its shortish handle that provided positive grip and control of the razor. As more people line up to purchase Atelier Duran machined products, wait times for your specified razor have blown out to around the 10 week mark but let me assure you that the wait time is worth it. This razor is right up with the best of razor design.

Blades Used – Gillette Super Stainless and Super-Max

Material – Bronze

Blade Tab – Covered

Weight – 99g

Head Width – 43.02mm

Handle Length – 82.93mm

Handle Diameter – 13.96mm

Availability – Atlier Durdan

Final Word – Exceptional
 
Henson Titanium (Ti22) +++ Aggressive (Canada)



Titanium, I cannot resist a titanium razor so I ordered a Henson Titanium as soon as they were advertised; well, two actually, I bought a medium aggressive one also. Henson have retained the same block shaped cap design that I was less than enthusiastic about on their Aluminium AL13 razor. It’s a satin finish that adorns the Ti22 but with machine marks visible under the cap, and in different light very faint machine marks can be picked up on the back of the plate. If you rotate the tapered handle lightly between your fingers you can feel burrs that remain after the machining, not big enough to cut you or anything but they should contribute to a fantastic grip. A whole lot of work has gone into machining the plate, it’s one of the more complicated modern plates featuring a lather channel under the blade feeding to large lather discharge slots on each side at the back of the plate. Titanium threaded on titanium has a likelihood to gall (picking up) so to alleviate this Henson have fitted a brass centre post to the cap. Henson’s current model Ti22 claims to have a stainless steel centre post, but the original is surely brass.

That brass handle post was to cause the biggest drama I’ve ever had with any razor, or more correctly, a manufacturer. During assembly, the thread lock holding the brass post into the cap had migrated to the 5mm handle post. When I undone the handle for the first time, the centre post screwed out of the cap and came out in the handle. I’m aware that things can go wrong even with the simplest of jobs and in this case, I’m not blaming anyone on the assembly line, just fix it up and I’ll be happy. I immediately contacted Henson but after numerous emails, they effectively cocooned themselves and would not talk to me. Because I had purchased two Henson razors, I could use the plate in the other razor if I’d been so inclined, but I was totally disillusioned with the whole affair. Two years later I decided to have a crack at removing the post from the handle. Well it came out, but in the process I managed to damage the thread that screws into the cap. Bugger – with a limited number of options available, I emailed Henson and asked if I could purchase a handle post. We don’t sell parts. I let them know that was the answer I expected and that I only wanted to correct their manufacturing error. At that point I stumbled onto a human because he asked for a photo of the problem. All I wanted was the little handle post, but Henson sent me a complete razor. Thanks Henson, but not content, I still wanted the original razor fixed. It made sense to me that if the handle post was metric the other end would also be metric, measured it and ordered a 3.5mm die. Now all repaired with the handle post Loctited in, this is the razor I’m reviewing today.



Even after completing repairs to the Henson Ti22, I was still in no hurry to review it; the Henson AL13 had been such a big disappointment so I scheduled the Ti22’s review for three months down the track. That time came around quickly and while I contemplated pushing it out further, here it is. As soon as the last review was completed, I put a blade in the Henson and set it up ready for action. My plan was to not think too much about having to shave with the Henson Ti22, just grab it and shave as though it was a last shave in the rotation. Well, that plan worked up to a point, initially the cap skidded down the side of my face - here we go again. Luckily that was the last time I had the Ti22’s cap skid down the side of my face, an unconscious adjustment to the handle angle and I was in action. While the +++ plate is the most aggressive plate available, it offered around the Karve CB Level #C efficiency but the point that stood out was just how smooth the shave was. I now appreciate why devotees of the Henson razor rate it so high. My preference is for a little more efficiency and with a corresponding increase in blade feel. Even being tapered, the Henson’s handle is long and it’s thin down near the head where I appreciate something to hold onto. Henson’s Ti22 certainly worked one hell of a lot better than the limp aluminium version, but it is a long way from being anywhere near the top in my choice of razors.

Blades Used – Gillette Rubie and Royal II

Material – Titanium

Blade Tab - Covered

Weight – 63g

Head Width – 43.24mm

Handle Length – 96.07mm

Handle Diameter – Tapered

Availability – Henson

Final Word – Another razor
 
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