Knives & Knife sharpening

That is correct Mark. I wonder if the camouflage will work to get it through the house past wifey :laugh: Time to start watching those videos.

Why would that be necessary? Think of the money you are saving by doing it yourself!
 
After going to the the Wembley pub for a meal and spending $24 on two pints of fairly average lager, I decided to join the throng and for $29 bought a rip off edge faux. Having lost at least one decent stone to knife sharpening I'm somewhat dubious regards the life (and quality) of the supplied ones but I guess I'll just have to see. I'm pretty interested in his stone flattening set up and am wondering if a bag of carburundum and a piece of glass will do the same to revive a few stones I've got. Mind you I think they're probably too far gone and will have to see out the remainder of their useful lives as fish hook toucher uppers.
 
For those fence sitters, apparently this is pretty close to the cheapest source for these systems. $USD22.90 delivered and if you buy something extra to get your order over $USD25 and can pay with a mastercard you can grab a $5 off coupon as a new member.

Looks like they have some type of buyer protection, essentially sounds like money held in escrow till item arrives - I'm guessing it's Ali Baba's answer to Ebay, Ali Baba is apparently massive in China, so very legit site but DYOR. :)
 
For those fence sitters, apparently this is pretty close to the cheapest source for these systems. $USD22.90 delivered and if you buy something extra to get your order over $USD25 and can pay with a mastercard you can grab a $5 off coupon as a new member.

Looks like they have some type of buyer protection, essentially sounds like money held in escrow till item arrives - I'm guessing it's Ali Baba's answer to Ebay, Ali Baba is apparently massive in China, so very legit site but DYOR. :)

I found AliExpress to be a real pain to use a few years back, with a lot of dodgy looking sellers who would only sell 100s of units. Hopefully it has got a lot better since then.
 
Hmm whats that the postman's brought.....?

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That was impressively quick from Japan, especially as it was 'economy' mail! As is the scouting report on Tojiro's its exceptionally sharp OOTB. Need to find out how to approach protecting it during use e.g force a patina.

The handle is VERY cheap and nasty.....PJ, you'd be looking to rehandle it for sure. A lovely handmade handle would look fantastic on it, am sure it'd be pretty easy to do as well.

Welcome any tips on getting the best from the carbon steel in a kitchen type environment. :)
 
Hmm whats that the postman's brought.....?

View attachment 339

That was impressively quick from Japan, especially as it was 'economy' mail! As is the scouting report on Tojiro's its exceptionally sharp OOTB. Need to find out how to approach protecting it during use e.g force a patina.

The handle is VERY cheap and nasty.....PJ, you'd be looking to rehandle it for sure. A lovely handmade handle would look fantastic on it, am sure it'd be pretty easy to do as well.

Welcome any tips on getting the best from the carbon steel in a kitchen type environment. :)

Wow that's quick! Given that I bought mine three minutes before you did I should by rights also be in posession. I've had a quick look at new Wa handles but it doesn't particularly look easy. They talk about burning the tang in to the wood which I find a bit hard to believe as for one this would affect the tempering of the steel. I know it's only the tang but who wants that to fold over on you when you're uisng it. And I can't as yet envisage a bit of timber that small surviving having it's centre burnt to a frazzle. I'm sure there are some tricks of the trade that I'm not aware of as yet.

The only tips I have regarding carbon steel are to keep it religiously dry when stored and wash and wipe it frequently during use. I must admit I've not kept an eye on how or when any patina develops but on the whole I don't tend to use detergent a whole lot. If you're constantly wiping it there's really no need. I'm sure you'll find it insanely sharp and only have to give it a stern look and it sharpens itself.
 
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Wow that's quick! Given that I bought mine three minutes before you did I should by rights also be in posession. I've had a quick look at new Wa handles but it doesn't particularly look easy. They talk about burning the tang in to the wood which I find a bit hard to believe as for one this would affect the tempering of the steel. I know it's only the tang but who wants that to fold over on you when you're uisng it. And I can't as yet envisage a bit of timber that small surviving having it's centre burnt to a frazzle. I'm sure there are some tricks of the trade that I'm not aware of as yet.

The only tips I have regarding carbon steel are to keep it religiously dry when stored and wash and wipe it frequently during use. I must admit I've not kept an eye on how or when any patina develops but on the whole I don't tend to use detergent a whole lot. If you're constantly wiping it there's really no need. I'm sure you'll find it insanely sharp and only have to give it a stern look and it sharpens itself.

Yes, I was quite impressed as they'd quoted 2-5weeks or so. As a sales pro you've got to love the under-promising over delivering......the irony is if he'd promised next day delivery and it got here in a week I'd be pissed off. Smart seller, amazed more sellers and businesses don't adopt this simple practice.

Well I can assure you that they do burn the tang into the handle, I noticed this yesterday - there's very small gaps around the tang and fitting into the handle - which isn't a great thing but I handled that later. I can only assume that they've always made them this way and despite modern adhesives they continue to do as is tradition. I'd imagine to remove the current very cheap handle you'd essentially have to cut it off - but I've seen a worklog of someone putting a new handle on and it looked relatively simple. They used 2 part epoxy. But one for down the track indeed.

I did a bit of a read up yesterday and after reading dozens of articles came to the following opinions......forcing a patina isn't the best option, a lot of folks will do this for INSTANT protection of sorts - if you use different methods you can get more pleasing results, but most people use acidic foods like a mustard-vinegar-lemon juice mix. That'll give a yellow tinged patina, not exactly dead sexy.

Others will cook meat (apparently chicken fillets being the option of choice) and then slice them and immerse the blade into the breast etc for a fair while - this will give a blue tinged patina which is regarded as better looking.

BUT very well known maker of carbon knives said he disagrees with forcing a patina and that you should just use normally and allow one to build naturally.

I was seriously considering polishing the kurouchi finish off the knife - and probably will still do this in time. It's regarded as a novelty in the west but the japs look down on it as its untouched from the forging. Decided I'd leave on for now. I tested on the back of the knife with some baking soda and a brillo pad and it comes off without too much trouble, so will do that down the track. The kurouchi is also kinda rough and I've heard folks get a lot of issues with foods sticking to it, so another benefit to remove.

A lot of folks recommended applying a good quality carnauba wax to the blade and also to fill in the minute gaps between the handle and tang - so I did this using a decent automotive wax I have. Also applied this to the handle to stop discolouring of it. I wiped it down as best I could ....VERY nearly cut myself badly on it already when I was rubbing the wax on - it cut the foam applicator in half before I even noticed...was one of those 'OH SHIT THAT WAS CLOSE' moments.

Appreciate your advise, which corresponds with what I've read on usage practices.....where I store it (it won't be out with the rest of my knives, I keep it and the Artifex tucked under the counter to keep out of harms way) I've put it in the 'anti-rust' paper sleeve it came in - and have a lil scrap of towel thats been dampened with some mineral oil, after use and drying I'll just run this up each side very lightly.

Otherwise I'm just going to ensure that I don't use it on acidic foods e.g cabbage, tomatoes, citrus fruits, onions etc - so use one of the SS ones on those and reserve this for others. Might sound like a hassle to some folks but won't make me blink and is better than having to clean off a yucky blackened, pitted blade.

I'll also have to check the blade angle whilst it's new to find out what they put on it at the factory....looks like a 50/50 bevel, which keeps it simple. I suspect the angle is around 12-15 degrees which I think it what Tojiro goes with.

Hope yours arrives before the weekend. :)
 
Yeah I hope mine arrives before the weekend and that "it's a Christmas present from the kids" doesn't get enforced so I won't be able to touch it for a month. I've got a feeling it will.

My only concern about using a carbon steel knife on acidic food is it tainting the food rather than the food tainting the knife. If you rinse the blade during use it really doesn't affect either in my experience.

Occasionally I'll run some olive oil over my blades if I haven't used them for a while. Don't think I'd have mineral oil anywhere near the kitchen. You could seriously spoil an otherwise nice dish if you forget to wash the blade before use.

Actually I think the secret to a patina (not that I've ever thought about the subject in relation to kitchen knives too often) is not regularly washing them in hot water and detergent. Most of my favorite knives have wooden handles so it's not something I do anyhow.

Where's that damned postman!
 
Yeah I hope mine arrives before the weekend and that "it's a Christmas present from the kids" doesn't get enforced so I won't be able to touch it for a month. I've got a feeling it will.

Now, now, you can't have things both ways!

My son is getting my Simpson 10 re-knotted for me as a Christmas present. Very nice of him (not sure if my wife has told him yet but I've "asked" her) and I know it is on its way back to me as we speak.

I will, however, be very studious in not touching until Christmas. What a way to start Christmas morning!
 
I'd read there are complications to using olive oil in this manner, tends to form a bit of a sticky/cloggy layer after a while. I only use food grade mineral oil - which the easiest one to find is baby oil. I use it on all my wooden cooking boards, the scent is gone long before one uses it. Seems to perform a lil better for me than olive etc, which I used to use previously but of course YMMV.

Well I decided to remove the black kurouchi layer......had to use wet & dry sandpaper....went 400->800->1500. Worked very well....gawd there's nothing like a screaming sharp edge a few cm away from your finger to get you to concentrate as you're rubbing the SP back and forth rapidly! I was thinking if I let my mind wander it's going to go straight down to the bone or just shear all the flesh off in one stroke! Suffice to say I concentrated!

It comes off pretty easily....word of warning though don't do it on anything you like to keep clean and use rags to wipe off as it makes a mess thats a bugger to get off anything (I was on a backup plastic chopping board).....essentially its just thick soot/carbon. Just used water and the SP. I had wanted to make the top section as close to mirrored as I could get but due to the already rough finish this would have taken a VERY long time...as the steel itself is kind of pitted. But it looks a LOT nicer.

The underside near the tang joining the handle is very hard to do and so didn't go bananas trying to get it as clean as the flat sides/top of the blade. See how you go but I definitely recommend removing it as it makes the knife look a lot better - but I can imagine some folks would like the rustic and different look of the blackened sides.

I also continued my momentum by staining the very nasty pine/birch type handle ....went with a nice dark jarrah finish - gave it two coats and now will wait another 4hrs or so and then give it 2-3 coats of a clear coat finish.

I'll pop some pix up when done, it won't look as good as a custom handle but it'll look a lot better.
 
Now, now, you can't have things both ways!

My son is getting my Simpson 10 re-knotted for me as a Christmas present. Very nice of him (not sure if my wife has told him yet but I've "asked" her) and I know it is on its way back to me as we speak.

I will, however, be very studious in not touching until Christmas. What a way to start Christmas morning!

All very cunning.
 
I'd read there are complications to using olive oil in this manner, tends to form a bit of a sticky/cloggy layer after a while. I only use food grade mineral oil - which the easiest one to find is baby oil. I use it on all my wooden cooking boards, the scent is gone long before one uses it. Seems to perform a lil better for me than olive etc, which I used to use previously but of course YMMV.

Well I decided to remove the black kurouchi layer......had to use wet & dry sandpaper....went 400->800->1500. Worked very well....gawd there's nothing like a screaming sharp edge a few cm away from your finger to get you to concentrate as you're rubbing the SP back and forth rapidly! I was thinking if I let my mind wander it's going to go straight down to the bone or just shear all the flesh off in one stroke! Suffice to say I concentrated!

It comes off pretty easily....word of warning though don't do it on anything you like to keep clean and use rags to wipe off as it makes a mess thats a bugger to get off anything (I was on a backup plastic chopping board).....essentially its just thick soot/carbon. Just used water and the SP. I had wanted to make the top section as close to mirrored as I could get but due to the already rough finish this would have taken a VERY long time...as the steel itself is kind of pitted. But it looks a LOT nicer.

The underside near the tang joining the handle is very hard to do and so didn't go bananas trying to get it as clean as the flat sides/top of the blade. See how you go but I definitely recommend removing it as it makes the knife look a lot better - but I can imagine some folks would like the rustic and different look of the blackened sides.

I also continued my momentum by staining the very nasty pine/birch type handle ....went with a nice dark jarrah finish - gave it two coats and now will wait another 4hrs or so and then give it 2-3 coats of a clear coat finish.

I'll pop some pix up when done, it won't look as good as a custom handle but it'll look a lot better.

I'll just wait and see. Thanks for the forewarning. Provided the black doesn't come off with use I probably won't touch it. You should see the handles on all my other knives (I will post a picture I swear) This as is won't stick out amongst my collection! In fact I quite like it the way it is. As far as I'm concerned it's $70 for a blade (in fact it's not even that, just a cutting edge really) and the rest doesn't really bother me too much.
 
It's arrived. Seriously sharp. First thing I did was attack an onion and it felt like a ripe banana. I very much like it the way it is. Don't even mind the bland looking handle. Just shoved some linseed oil on it. I've got a strong suspicion that it'll get taken away and shoved under the Christmas tree. But that's OK.


Gyuto.jpg
 
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I use macadamia oil on all my stuff. Vegetable and fruit oils will decompose over time, nut oils don't. I oil all the wood handles and cutting boards with it, and wipe it all over the blade on my carbon Nakiri. I am still not confident in my skills to get it sharp again so I don't use it much, not much patina happening yet.

James
 
Good call. I'll switch over to peanut oil. I only readily use olive oil because it's always on hand. In my experience carbon steel is a lot easier to sharpen so don't be scared. The thing is when you start reading knife forums it all looks a bit daunting. I guess if you want to do any daring cutting things like 0.01mm thick slices of ripe tomato.....but on the whole it all looks completely over the top to me.
 
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