Weekly Razor Review

Bladerunner7 said:
Each User will post a Different Experience. Errol's review gave the Razor a thumbs up and as usual it's very tempting...but the price tag is a bit of a reality check for me.:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
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Yeah, I picked an expensive finish too. The premium satin is polished first before brushing. So AU$895 all up. My bad... :rolleyes: :facepalm:
 
Bladerunner7 said:
On it @LesC . To be honest I have never used a Gem or for that matter a Kamisori. The Iwasaki Kamisori always drew my attention big time. Thanks to you Lads I've figured the Kamisori to be a trickier tool to handle than a Western Straight. They just seem so nimble and compact though.
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LesC said:
Well again IMHO I got a Dovo and S K Colling's S/R's, before I got my 1st Kamisori, a Tosuke (Recently PIF'd) I have an Iwasaki by Ryouichi Mizuochi as my only rotation user. I found the Kamisori easier to use (though not initially) than a S/R, it gave a closer shave and the 'feeling' of mastering it was, well GREAT :) (? ask @rbscebu his thoughts on that) ....
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I basically went from multi-blade carts directly to traditional straight razors. I didn't have the courage to really try "safety" razors. After a few years of daily SR shaving, I wanted a further shaving challenge. This is when @LesC stepped in and lent me a couple of his much treasured kamisori. After a couple of weeks kamisori shaving, I was hooked.

Kamisori shaving requires you to develop a different approach to the shaving ritual. Shaving with both the ura and omote sides of the kamisori is not too difficult. The challenge comes in when you want to shave the traditional Japanese way with only the omote side to your face. That really takes some thinking and technique development. It can be done and (eventually) done well. Just keep some band-aids handy while you learn.

I have found omote-side only kamisori shaving to be the second-highest level of wet shaving. After a few hundred kamisori shave, I might even find the courage to try the highest level - shaving with a "safety" razor that actually has a DE blade inserted!
 
rbscebu said:
I basically went from multi-blade carts directly to traditional straight razors. I didn't have the courage to really try "safety" razors. After a few years of daily SR shaving, I wanted a further shaving challenge. This is when @LesC stepped in and lent me a couple of his much treasured kamisori. After a couple of weeks kamisori shaving, I was hooked.

Kamisori shaving requires you to develop a different approach to the shaving ritual. Shaving with both the ura and omote sides of the kamisori is not too difficult. The challenge comes in when you want to shave the traditional Japanese way with only the omote side to your face. That really takes some thinking and technique development. It can be done and (eventually) done well. Just keep some band-aids handy while you learn.

I have found omote-side only kamisori shaving to be the second-highest level of wet shaving. After a few hundred kamisori shave, I might even find the courage to try the highest level - shaving with a "safety" razor that actually has a DE blade inserted!
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Totally enjoying your Kamisori journey Richard. Thanks to you and Les I'm learning a lot about Straights and Kamisori's.

I remember @Gargravarr mentioning that he had made a Western Style one too and so I landed up researching those as well.
 
Blackland Sabre - Level 1 (USA)



Behind the scenes, @Gargravarr has been nibbling away suggesting that I revisit his beloved Sabre; well not his, but a Sabre just the same. While that has been playing in the back of my mind, it was Blackland themselves advising that a new version of the Sabre was on the horizon that pushed this review across the line. Sabre is one of Blackland’s earlier razors and was designed to accept the GEM blade. In razors designed around GEM blades, the securing methods employed are many and varied. Blackbird added an additional method of clamping GEM blades by milling the sides off the handle post to allow its passage through the slot in the centre of the GEM blade. Interestingly, milling the sides off the handle post was no big deal till the release of the Blackland’s own Vector when everyone got on the band wagon and started applauding this magnificent new approach before realised that it was a feature of the Sabre a couple of years prior. Fixing the blade through its centre slot allows the handle to be positioned in similar proportions to that of a DE razor. To imitate something approaching the DE shave angle, the handle post has been angled but in my opinion the angle has gone too far. For this review I’ve selected the Sabre level #1 to see how it feels.

A shave angle that was on the critical side and difficulty shaving under the nose were annoying. Those who use the Sabre regularly will quickly adapt and shave around these annoyances but straight up I found them to be an irritation. Previously I have criticized the handle on the Sabre for being slippery, but there are no complaints this time around. Efficiency wise, the Sabre Level 1 was around a Karve CB Level #C and with its small amount of positive blade provided a comfortable and long lasting shave. Smooth shaving is why many wet shavers migrate to, and never stop using GEM bladed marvels; the Sabre did not let the blade down. At its release the Sabre was available with one plate only, the plate now known as the Level 1. Requests to Blackland for the Sabre to be more assertive prompted the release of their Level 2 plate. I now appreciate why those early requests were made; the Level 1 plated Sabre is not for me.

Blades Used – Personna

Material – Stainless Steel

Weight – 106.7g

Blade Tab - Enclosed

Head Width – 40mm

Handle Length – 84.94mm

Handle Diameter – 11.99mm

Availability – Blackbird

Final Word – Another razor
 
Bladerunner7 said:
I couldn't help but agree with you. I used a Baili Tech clone awhile back and had a brilliant shave with it, smooth and efficient and it cost me a a few dollars with shipping. I was so impressed that I picked up a Post war ball end Tech and a Gillette New SC soon after for a few dollars more, restored them and they shave like a dream.

The Issue Phil, is that Human desire to own, try out and to figure things out on your own is as old as Creation itself. I have a pal who swears by all the Big Boy Razors and won't touch a vintage even if it is re-plated but that's just a personal thing I guess. Artisan manufacturers need customers, people need to spend their money and feel good about it, some want bragging rights when they pick up a a high end Rocnel or Carbon.

The one thing I learnt from all you lads is that it is all bout the Shaver and never about the tool itself. A seasoned shaver can pull a super shave from a dollar razor, just down to technique, choice of blade etc. So I'm with you but the wheels of the worldwide economy need to keep turning and Artisans and their dedicated customers ensure that I guess
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How much difference is there between the vintage gilletes and baili tech clone in how they shave?
 
Errol said:
Shield Stomper (China)



Shield razors are a quality product and I’ve been suitably impressed with each and every Shield razor it has been my pleasure to use. Their Stomper model is designed for a ½ DE blade and I’m again overwhelmed by their attention to detail; not one machine mark to be seen, smooth thread engagement all completed in a satin finish. Much of the design looks to have been borrowed from a WR2 head; sorry, that should read DE Defender head. Shield have virtually cut the DE Defender head in half, used the corner posts of the cap for two locating points and added a couple of pins to sit the blade on, imaginative, simple, but most importantly it works well in practice. Appealing to my appreciation of its layout is that the blade locating holes in the plate are blind and there are two generous lather clearing grooves. A widish diamond pattern along the length of the handle combined with its matt finish is expected to provide a pleasing grip.

This is not the DE Defender model that I used cut in half, the delivered shave was a lot milder and there was a considerable reduction in blade feel, but it was still positive. Efficiency was in the Karve CB level #C region, making this a very relaxing razor to use, but it was still able to deliver a very close shave. Its pleasant length handle, only just over half the head weight of a corresponding DE razor, combined with the razor being machined in titanium, presented a razor that was well below the 100g benchmark weight. These physical characteristics translated to a razor with incredible maneuverability and the Stomper could be whizzed around without any fear of repercussion. Enjoyed my time using the Stomper.

Blades Used – Gillette Nacet and Leaf

Material – Gr5 Titanium

Weight – 67.8g

Blade Tab - Covered

Head Width – 42.56mm

Handle Length – 90.04mm

Handle Diameter – 13.55mm

Availability – Shield Razors

Final Word – A little stonker
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I'm a little ignorant on this one - what's the benefit of a half DE blade vs just having a full defender / DE blade head? It doesn't look all that much smaller to aid manoeuvrability vs an AC head for example.

Any favourites from the shield line up? I'm considering one of their DE heads. Seems like people really like the AC head and the DE 0.95/0.05 but I've heard they have a 0.12 exposure option as well.
 
thatguy said:
I'm a little ignorant on this one - what's the benefit of a half DE blade vs just having a full defender / DE blade head? It doesn't look all that much smaller to aid manoeuvrability vs an AC head for example.

Any favourites from the shield line up? I'm considering one of their DE heads. Seems like people really like the AC head and the DE 0.95/0.05 but I've heard they have a 0.12 exposure option as well.
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FWIW, I’m 3 days into shaving with their Titanium Gem and really enjoying it, though I found not as manoeuvrable as their AC, both quality workmanship!! 👍
 
Errol said:
Blackland Sabre - Level 1 (USA)



Behind the scenes, @Gargravarr has been nibbling away suggesting that I revisit his beloved Sabre; well not his, but a Sabre just the same. While that has been playing in the back of my mind, it was Blackland themselves advising that a new version of the Sabre was on the horizon that pushed this review across the line. Sabre is one of Blackland’s earlier razors and was designed to accept the GEM blade. In razors designed around GEM blades, the securing methods employed are many and varied. Blackbird added an additional method of clamping GEM blades by milling the sides off the handle post to allow its passage through the slot in the centre of the GEM blade. Interestingly, milling the sides off the handle post was no big deal till the release of the Blackland’s own Vector when everyone got on the band wagon and started applauding this magnificent new approach before realised that it was a feature of the Sabre a couple of years prior. Fixing the blade through its centre slot allows the handle to be positioned in similar proportions to that of a DE razor. To imitate something approaching the DE shave angle, the handle post has been angled but in my opinion the angle has gone too far. For this review I’ve selected the Sabre level #1 to see how it feels.

A shave angle that was on the critical side and difficulty shaving under the nose were annoying. Those who use the Sabre regularly will quickly adapt and shave around these annoyances but straight up I found them to be an irritation. Previously I have criticized the handle on the Sabre for being slippery, but there are no complaints this time around. Efficiency wise, the Sabre Level 1 was around a Karve CB Level #C and with its small amount of positive blade provided a comfortable and long lasting shave. Smooth shaving is why many wet shavers migrate to, and never stop using GEM bladed marvels; the Sabre did not let the blade down. At its release the Sabre was available with one plate only, the plate now known as the Level 1. Requests to Blackland for the Sabre to be more assertive prompted the release of their Level 2 plate. I now appreciate why those early requests were made; the Level 1 plated Sabre is not for me.

Blades Used – Personna

Material – Stainless Steel

Weight – 106.7g

Blade Tab - Enclosed

Head Width – 40mm

Handle Length – 84.94mm

Handle Diameter – 11.99mm

Availability – Blackbird

Final Word – Another razor
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The Blackland list of Razors is a very interesting one, there are many highs and a few lows in the catalogue. I've seen the Blackland Dart and Era pop up for sale every now and then, all of them used but they get snapped up in no time. I have often pondered over why they stopped making razors which they called a failure but still command resale value. Having said that, running a business is not my forte or my thing, so understanding business related decisions isn't either.

I wasn't acquainted with the Sabre at all and now I am, another superb and informative review Errol, loved reading about the background of the Razor and it's design and construction.
 
thatguy said:
How much difference is there between the vintage gilletes and baili tech clone in how they shave?
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To be fair not much, the Gillette is definitely smoother but the Baili Bt 131 delivers a fantastic shave. The razor has a nice handle, excellent balance and superb blade clamping. The Gillette feels more solid and classier while the Baili feels a lot lighter and not as classy. Having said that if you compare price point and the fact that you are getting a brand new razor, the Chinese clone is a winner.
 
Rocnel SE-G OC (Turkey)



I was ratting through my razor collection when I stumbled onto this little GEM. It’s an unusual razor so I pencilled it in for a review; here today the Rocnel SE-G OC. In their earlier days, Rocnel were responsible for some very interesting and innovative designs and this one certainly falls into both those categories. It’s a combination of Rocnel ideas, a one piece head with a slit which allows the blade to slide in from the side (either side), a tapped handle extension at the back of the head and a 5mm grub screw tightened to finger tight secures the blade in place with sufficient extension to form the handle post. Rocnel chose to line the handle post up with the thick portion of the blade and to add more spice, decided that an open comb would complete this unique style razor; there is a SB version available but that will be for another day. How Rocnel managed to squeeze the weigh to stay under 100g is a complete mystery to me, that handle looks and feels heavy. Mine is one of their earlier releases from around 2017 and has what Rocnel call a ‘titanium finish’; it’s black.



Holy suffering baldy-faced tomcats; this thing is aggressive. With so much positive blade, this razor runs a close second to what shaving with a blade tied to a stick must feel like. It’s intimidating and very uncomfortable to use therefore I did not enjoy using the SE-G one little bit. Because of the amount of blade protrusion, the shave was certainly not smooth and because I was pussy-footing through the shave trying to avoid personal injury, shaving was an agonizing feat. Avoiding injury was a lost cause because I ended up with cuts and nicks after each and every pass. I’m going to label the efficiency level as being in excess of Karve CB level #D but that has a lot to do with the large amount of blade protrusion. I forced myself to do a second shave with the SE-G just to make sure I wasn’t being a big softie but the results were the same, so I called it quits at that point and found the next razor to review. This razor is not for the feint hearted and, in my opinion, it is just too much. Use at your own risk.

Blades Used – Personna

Material – Stainless Steel – Titanium finish

Weight – 98.2g

Blade Tab – Open

Head Width – 40.11mm

Handle Length – 75.15mm

Handle Diameter – 13.62mm

Availability – Out of production

Final Word – A weapon
 
Looks like someone at Rocnel has a poor grasp of common sense. Probably the majority of GEM razor makers put nubs on the baseplate to prevent those sharp, pointy corners from making contact. Just looking at that Rocnel, those corners are sticking out and exposed, and an invitation to a vampire party. You'd be much safer with a straight, where at least you can see what you're doing.

Interestingly, Atelier Durdan manage to produce an excellent GEM razor without those nubs, and I have never once cut or nicked myself with it, even with their most aggressive baseplate. But I won't comment further on that here, this is @Errol's thread, and I'm sure he'll get to this one before long.
 
Above The Tie GEM (USA)



Above The Tie are best remembered for their DE bladed razors but at times they ventured to the other side of the spectrum and produced the occasional SE bladed razor; I purchased this specimen, their GEM razor, in about 2018. WARNING Make sure before you strip the razor that you have plenty of space and if you load a blade in the bathroom, put the plug in the sink and something over the drain hole in the floor. There are four pieces to this razor, handle, cap, plate and a mongrel little piece with a hook on one end and the handle post on the other. It is the fiddliest razor I’ve ever tried to load a blade into; definitely not the razor to use in the morning after a night on the town. Blade loading procedure:
  • Lay the cap on your off hand
  • Position the blade on the cap
  • Hook said mongrel piece through the slot in the blade and cap, angled forward towards the cutting edge
  • Juggle the plate into position
  • Screw on handle


When the razor is assembled the handle post sits in the centre of the blade therefore it is a precursor to what Blackbird achieved by machining the sides off the handle post on their Sabre to slide through the GEM blade. ATT’s method does work and lines the handle up approximating the position of a DE razor but there’s no getting over the fact that it is a complex procedure. When I first stripped this razor, I was thinking that it had a very sloppy thread fit, but the thread engagement is actually very good, it is that mongrel hook piece that is slopping around till the handle is tightened down. A line of holes in the plate provides the lather clearing. When ATT produced this razor, heavy was the fashionable way to deliver a razor so I’ll not criticize the weight, it would be a different story if the razor was available now. ATT chose not to do any additional finishing on the razor and left it as it came out of the machine but that was how ATT delivered all their razors in those days.

Believe me, you will always remember putting the blade into the ATT GEM, but that did not stop me checking after the first stroke that there was indeed a blade fitted. Of course there was, and the shave was up with the best. Its Karve CB level #C efficiency and very pleasing blade protrusion delivered a very comfortable shave. Importantly, it was very close and one of those long lasting varieties. What has me bamboozled is how a razor that is so fiddly to load can deliver the goods when called on to do so; every time I shaved with the GEM, the shave was so comfortable. Enjoyed my time shaving with the ATT GEM and proud to say that the razor was stored away with the four pieces all still intact, no need to call in the plumber.

Blades Used – Personna

Material – 303 Stainless Steel

Weight – 118.5g

Blade Tab – Covered

Head Width – 41.26mm

Handle Length – 89.27mm

Handle Diameter – 12.76mm

Availability – Out of production

Final Word – Your morning jig saw
 
I looked at that GEM razor a couple of years back. I've often admired ATT products, but that Mongrel Piece(TM) was a showstopper for me :LOL:

Now that ATT has been bought up by Blackland, I wonder if Shane will revisit this design... :unsure:
 
Top review @Errol and thanks for introducing us to the ATT Gem razor. I did not know they made one. That little screw or hook would be an annoying factor for me. The more complex the Razor when assembling the more I'd just stay away from it, put that down to me just being lazy.

I did have the opportunity of using a few ATT DE models this year and while they looked like an Ordinary DE 89, some of them delivered fantastic shaves. When taken apart even the normal ATT DE Razors look rather plain and simple but once put together with the blade loaded, you just know they mean business. Love them.

I have never used a GEM but will get around to it someday soon.
 
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