Weekly Razor Review

On it @LesC . To be honest I have never used a Gem or for that matter a Kamisori. The Iwasaki Kamisori always drew my attention big time. Thanks to you Lads I've figured the Kamisori to be a trickier tool to handle than a Western Straight. They just seem so nimble and compact though.

Well again IMHO I got a Dovo and S K Colling's S/R's, before I got my 1st Kamisori, a Tosuke (Recently PIF'd) I have an Iwasaki by Ryouichi Mizuochi as my only rotation user. I found the Kamisori easier to use (though not initially) than a S/R, it gave a closer shave and the 'feeling' of mastering it was, well GREAT :) (? ask @rbscebu his thoughts on that) ....
I basically went from multi-blade carts directly to traditional straight razors. I didn't have the courage to really try "safety" razors. After a few years of daily SR shaving, I wanted a further shaving challenge. This is when @LesC stepped in and lent me a couple of his much treasured kamisori. After a couple of weeks kamisori shaving, I was hooked.

Kamisori shaving requires you to develop a different approach to the shaving ritual. Shaving with both the ura and omote sides of the kamisori is not too difficult. The challenge comes in when you want to shave the traditional Japanese way with only the omote side to your face. That really takes some thinking and technique development. It can be done and (eventually) done well. Just keep some band-aids handy while you learn.

I have found omote-side only kamisori shaving to be the second-highest level of wet shaving. After a few hundred kamisori shave, I might even find the courage to try the highest level - shaving with a "safety" razor that actually has a DE blade inserted!
 
I basically went from multi-blade carts directly to traditional straight razors. I didn't have the courage to really try "safety" razors. After a few years of daily SR shaving, I wanted a further shaving challenge. This is when @LesC stepped in and lent me a couple of his much treasured kamisori. After a couple of weeks kamisori shaving, I was hooked.

Kamisori shaving requires you to develop a different approach to the shaving ritual. Shaving with both the ura and omote sides of the kamisori is not too difficult. The challenge comes in when you want to shave the traditional Japanese way with only the omote side to your face. That really takes some thinking and technique development. It can be done and (eventually) done well. Just keep some band-aids handy while you learn.

I have found omote-side only kamisori shaving to be the second-highest level of wet shaving. After a few hundred kamisori shave, I might even find the courage to try the highest level - shaving with a "safety" razor that actually has a DE blade inserted!
Totally enjoying your Kamisori journey Richard. Thanks to you and Les I'm learning a lot about Straights and Kamisori's.

I remember @Gargravarr mentioning that he had made a Western Style one too and so I landed up researching those as well.
 
Blackland Sabre - Level 1 (USA)



Behind the scenes, @Gargravarr has been nibbling away suggesting that I revisit his beloved Sabre; well not his, but a Sabre just the same. While that has been playing in the back of my mind, it was Blackland themselves advising that a new version of the Sabre was on the horizon that pushed this review across the line. Sabre is one of Blackland’s earlier razors and was designed to accept the GEM blade. In razors designed around GEM blades, the securing methods employed are many and varied. Blackbird added an additional method of clamping GEM blades by milling the sides off the handle post to allow its passage through the slot in the centre of the GEM blade. Interestingly, milling the sides off the handle post was no big deal till the release of the Blackland’s own Vector when everyone got on the band wagon and started applauding this magnificent new approach before realised that it was a feature of the Sabre a couple of years prior. Fixing the blade through its centre slot allows the handle to be positioned in similar proportions to that of a DE razor. To imitate something approaching the DE shave angle, the handle post has been angled but in my opinion the angle has gone too far. For this review I’ve selected the Sabre level #1 to see how it feels.

A shave angle that was on the critical side and difficulty shaving under the nose were annoying. Those who use the Sabre regularly will quickly adapt and shave around these annoyances but straight up I found them to be an irritation. Previously I have criticized the handle on the Sabre for being slippery, but there are no complaints this time around. Efficiency wise, the Sabre Level 1 was around a Karve CB Level #C and with its small amount of positive blade provided a comfortable and long lasting shave. Smooth shaving is why many wet shavers migrate to, and never stop using GEM bladed marvels; the Sabre did not let the blade down. At its release the Sabre was available with one plate only, the plate now known as the Level 1. Requests to Blackland for the Sabre to be more assertive prompted the release of their Level 2 plate. I now appreciate why those early requests were made; the Level 1 plated Sabre is not for me.

Blades Used – Personna

Material – Stainless Steel

Weight – 106.7g

Blade Tab - Enclosed

Head Width – 40mm

Handle Length – 84.94mm

Handle Diameter – 11.99mm

Availability – Blackbird

Final Word – Another razor
 
I couldn't help but agree with you. I used a Baili Tech clone awhile back and had a brilliant shave with it, smooth and efficient and it cost me a a few dollars with shipping. I was so impressed that I picked up a Post war ball end Tech and a Gillette New SC soon after for a few dollars more, restored them and they shave like a dream.

The Issue Phil, is that Human desire to own, try out and to figure things out on your own is as old as Creation itself. I have a pal who swears by all the Big Boy Razors and won't touch a vintage even if it is re-plated but that's just a personal thing I guess. Artisan manufacturers need customers, people need to spend their money and feel good about it, some want bragging rights when they pick up a a high end Rocnel or Carbon.

The one thing I learnt from all you lads is that it is all bout the Shaver and never about the tool itself. A seasoned shaver can pull a super shave from a dollar razor, just down to technique, choice of blade etc. So I'm with you but the wheels of the worldwide economy need to keep turning and Artisans and their dedicated customers ensure that I guess

How much difference is there between the vintage gilletes and baili tech clone in how they shave?
 
Shield Stomper (China)



Shield razors are a quality product and I’ve been suitably impressed with each and every Shield razor it has been my pleasure to use. Their Stomper model is designed for a ½ DE blade and I’m again overwhelmed by their attention to detail; not one machine mark to be seen, smooth thread engagement all completed in a satin finish. Much of the design looks to have been borrowed from a WR2 head; sorry, that should read DE Defender head. Shield have virtually cut the DE Defender head in half, used the corner posts of the cap for two locating points and added a couple of pins to sit the blade on, imaginative, simple, but most importantly it works well in practice. Appealing to my appreciation of its layout is that the blade locating holes in the plate are blind and there are two generous lather clearing grooves. A widish diamond pattern along the length of the handle combined with its matt finish is expected to provide a pleasing grip.

This is not the DE Defender model that I used cut in half, the delivered shave was a lot milder and there was a considerable reduction in blade feel, but it was still positive. Efficiency was in the Karve CB level #C region, making this a very relaxing razor to use, but it was still able to deliver a very close shave. Its pleasant length handle, only just over half the head weight of a corresponding DE razor, combined with the razor being machined in titanium, presented a razor that was well below the 100g benchmark weight. These physical characteristics translated to a razor with incredible maneuverability and the Stomper could be whizzed around without any fear of repercussion. Enjoyed my time using the Stomper.

Blades Used – Gillette Nacet and Leaf

Material – Gr5 Titanium

Weight – 67.8g

Blade Tab - Covered

Head Width – 42.56mm

Handle Length – 90.04mm

Handle Diameter – 13.55mm

Availability – Shield Razors

Final Word – A little stonker
I'm a little ignorant on this one - what's the benefit of a half DE blade vs just having a full defender / DE blade head? It doesn't look all that much smaller to aid manoeuvrability vs an AC head for example.

Any favourites from the shield line up? I'm considering one of their DE heads. Seems like people really like the AC head and the DE 0.95/0.05 but I've heard they have a 0.12 exposure option as well.
 
I'm a little ignorant on this one - what's the benefit of a half DE blade vs just having a full defender / DE blade head? It doesn't look all that much smaller to aid manoeuvrability vs an AC head for example.

Any favourites from the shield line up? I'm considering one of their DE heads. Seems like people really like the AC head and the DE 0.95/0.05 but I've heard they have a 0.12 exposure option as well.
FWIW, I’m 3 days into shaving with their Titanium Gem and really enjoying it, though I found not as manoeuvrable as their AC, both quality workmanship!! 👍
 
Blackland Sabre - Level 1 (USA)



Behind the scenes, @Gargravarr has been nibbling away suggesting that I revisit his beloved Sabre; well not his, but a Sabre just the same. While that has been playing in the back of my mind, it was Blackland themselves advising that a new version of the Sabre was on the horizon that pushed this review across the line. Sabre is one of Blackland’s earlier razors and was designed to accept the GEM blade. In razors designed around GEM blades, the securing methods employed are many and varied. Blackbird added an additional method of clamping GEM blades by milling the sides off the handle post to allow its passage through the slot in the centre of the GEM blade. Interestingly, milling the sides off the handle post was no big deal till the release of the Blackland’s own Vector when everyone got on the band wagon and started applauding this magnificent new approach before realised that it was a feature of the Sabre a couple of years prior. Fixing the blade through its centre slot allows the handle to be positioned in similar proportions to that of a DE razor. To imitate something approaching the DE shave angle, the handle post has been angled but in my opinion the angle has gone too far. For this review I’ve selected the Sabre level #1 to see how it feels.

A shave angle that was on the critical side and difficulty shaving under the nose were annoying. Those who use the Sabre regularly will quickly adapt and shave around these annoyances but straight up I found them to be an irritation. Previously I have criticized the handle on the Sabre for being slippery, but there are no complaints this time around. Efficiency wise, the Sabre Level 1 was around a Karve CB Level #C and with its small amount of positive blade provided a comfortable and long lasting shave. Smooth shaving is why many wet shavers migrate to, and never stop using GEM bladed marvels; the Sabre did not let the blade down. At its release the Sabre was available with one plate only, the plate now known as the Level 1. Requests to Blackland for the Sabre to be more assertive prompted the release of their Level 2 plate. I now appreciate why those early requests were made; the Level 1 plated Sabre is not for me.

Blades Used – Personna

Material – Stainless Steel

Weight – 106.7g

Blade Tab - Enclosed

Head Width – 40mm

Handle Length – 84.94mm

Handle Diameter – 11.99mm

Availability – Blackbird

Final Word – Another razor
The Blackland list of Razors is a very interesting one, there are many highs and a few lows in the catalogue. I've seen the Blackland Dart and Era pop up for sale every now and then, all of them used but they get snapped up in no time. I have often pondered over why they stopped making razors which they called a failure but still command resale value. Having said that, running a business is not my forte or my thing, so understanding business related decisions isn't either.

I wasn't acquainted with the Sabre at all and now I am, another superb and informative review Errol, loved reading about the background of the Razor and it's design and construction.
 
How much difference is there between the vintage gilletes and baili tech clone in how they shave?
To be fair not much, the Gillette is definitely smoother but the Baili Bt 131 delivers a fantastic shave. The razor has a nice handle, excellent balance and superb blade clamping. The Gillette feels more solid and classier while the Baili feels a lot lighter and not as classy. Having said that if you compare price point and the fact that you are getting a brand new razor, the Chinese clone is a winner.
 
Top