Wilkshire13
The Torch Whisperer
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2020
- Location
- Melbourne
I've tried the aluminium offering and found it very mild and far to light for my liking. Shaved well with a Kai blade though
Muhle R41 GS - Stainless Steel (Germany)
I ordered the Muhle R41 GS from Muhle USA and they were going to supply a set of cuff links. Sorry Sir, we have run out of cuff links so we are sending you a $25 after shave balm. Somehow, Muhle must have read my pedigree, I’ll get far more use out of a can of shave balm than I ever will out of a set of cuff links. On the tenth anniversary of the release of their venerable R41 model, Muhle presented their own stainless steel version of the great razor. Earlier versions of the Muhle R41 were chrome plated zinc and for years there were calls for a stainless steel version, now Muhle have delivered.
Visually the only difference I could determine between the plated zinc versions and stainless steel version was that the stainless steel version actually has a superior shine. Having said that, the underside of the cap and the top of the plate have a satin finish. I went looking for machining marks and the only place I could see what looked like a machine mark was in the recess at the back of the plate. There’s a long lather groove on each side of the plate and of course the scalloped edge, round blade posts on the cap, but like I’ve mentioned, no changes to the zinc version. It was a pleasant surprise just how solid the handle felt, I was expecting a much lighter handle, however the knurling was found to be a wanting, it is both shallow and slippery. It even appears that the handle may well have an electroplated finish but I’m not sure.
Well, surprise, surprise, the delivered shave felt very similar to its zinc sibling but with a bit more blade feel. There is no denying how close the Muhle R41 GS shaves and for such an aggressive razor the feel is reasonable smooth. Muhle have sacrificed functionality for appearances on the R41 GS handle making it the slipperiest handle it has been my misfortune to use in ages. Wet, dry, it just performed badly. That ability to confidently control the GS has probably led me to believe there is more blade feel than there actually is and diminished my enthusiasm for the R41 GS. With my collection being primarily machined stainless steel razors, it may come as a surprise when I say I enjoyed the shave from the zinc R41 more.
Blades Used – Gillette Platinum and Triton
Material – Stainless Steel
Blade Tab – Covered
Weight – 114g
Head Width – 42.28mm
Handle Length – 98.91mm
Handle Diameter – 13.9mm
Availability – In most great razor supply shops
Final Word – Performance
Final Word – Gimmick
I have the polished version with an Atlas handle. Gimmick? Maybe. But, I'm quite happy with it.Above The Tie X1 Single Edge Slant - Kronos (USA)
Above The Tie have released their version of a SE slant that as far as I’m aware is the first ever SE slant. When compared to a DE blade, a SE blade is longer, thicker and a lot narrower. It therefore stands to reason that it is going to be difficult to twist a SE blade to any extent. ATT also realised that a SE blades cannot be easily twisted and simply aligned the blade at an angle to the handle to achieve a slant; there is no twisting tension applied to the blade what so ever. At first, the slant in the head of the X1 was not noticed and I done a double take to ensure that there was indeed some angle change; it’s there all right, not much, but it’s there. To add to the confusion, the bottom of the plate is completely flat and set at 90 degrees to the handle, the blade angle is altered by a tapered flat machined into one side of the plate with the cap matching the flat to form an angled head. I do not have any method of measuring the angle but can see that it is not much. It’s the familiar Kronos handle that was chosen for the X1 Slant and the whole razor is presented in a sandblasted finished. ATT razors have a distinctive look to them, take one look at the X1, and it certainly fits that ATT mould right down to its primitive look, I just hope it shaves as good as previous ATT’s.
Because there is no twisting of the SE blade, loading the blades into the X1 was a simple matter of placing the blade onto the elongated blade posts on the cap, and clamping everything down. All loaded, so let’s see how an angled blade in a SE razor goes about its business. In true ATT tradition, the shave felt good; about Karve CB Level #D efficiency and with a pleasing amount of blade feel and a razor fitted with a Kronos length handle is always nice to maneuver. In no way is the razor at all responsible for the quality of the first shave with the Schick P-30 blade, it was terrible; not just for the first couple of strokes but for the first pass (and a bit) as the blade pulled and tugged its way to the finish. All the other shaves were very smooth; therefore, the fault is pointed squarely at the blade. SE’s have a reputation for delivering close shaves and the X1 upheld its end in the close shave department. There are many similarities between shaving with a DE and shaving with a SE but there are variances that make SE shaving a different experience; not better. There’s just something about shaving with a SE so it’s good to swap around every now and then. ATT’s X1 performed very well but then again so do then the other SE offerings from ATT – the S1 and S2. Is the X1 a better performer? I don’t think so.
Blades Used – Feather Professional and Schick P-30
Material – Stainless Steel
Blade Tab - Covered
Weight – 119g
Head Width – 50.78mm
Handle Length – 89.06mm
Handle Diameter – 12.74mm
Availability – Above The Tie
Final Word – Gimmick
I like that handle. Their offerings look good for the price, just unclear on what the materials used are due to google translate. The Gryf/Gryphon looks interesting to me tho, with 2 different blade gaps on one head.Stando Single Edge – Suomi (Poland)
Stando, a new name out of Poland, have recently released a range of DE razors along with this SE variant. It reminds me very much of the first version of the Colonial General, right down to the chunky build and satin finish. There is not a machine mark to be seen anywhere on the razor and to the machinist’s credit, every part lines up perfectly. Stando has finished the Single Edge in a course satin finish that looks respectable and very workman like. If there is one complaint with the cap, it’s that the handle post is short, another three/ four mm of post would be very much appreciated. The plate is a heavy item with one full length lather channel and the cut outs for the elongated blade posts to protrude completely through. Stando make a number of handle options but the slant came with what is called their Suomi handle. It’s a simple but interesting design; cylindrical with wide interrupted longitudinal grooves running the length of the grip area. It looks like it should work exceptionally well.
I’ll put my hand up and admit that I was caught out by the Stando Single Edge. Just because the Stando resembles the Colonial General V1 in appearance does not mean that it shaves like a General V1. Stando’s Single Edge is a much more assertive razor with efficiency under that of the Asylum Rx but getting up there just the same. Blade feel – it certainly has, at about my upper level of comfort and I managed a couple of weepers each shave with the Kai Captain Mild blades but with the Feather ProGuard blade fitted it was a much more subdued razor to operate. With the ProGuard blade, this is one razor I could just keep using. As expected, the handle was a beauty, comfortable and with plenty of grip. I liked the Stando Single Edge especially with the milder range of blades, this razor is good.
Blades Used – Kai Captain Titan Mild and Feather ProGuard
Material – Stainless Steel
Blade Tab - Covered
Weight – 117g
Head Width – 50.09mm
Handle Length – 90mm
Handle Diameter – 11.96mm
Availability – Stando Polska/ Etsy
Final Word – Lets you know it’s there
I like that handle. Their offerings look good for the price, just unclear on what the materials used are due to google translate. The Gryf/Gryphon looks interesting to me tho, with 2 different blade gaps on one head.
Ta. Btw, did you personally buy off Etsy or the main Stando site?@neongas Yesterday when I posted the review I sent a link to Stan. Obviously he has read your comment and came back with the reply below that should answer some of your question:
Oh, the length of the thread depends on the thickness of the material for the cap. Unfortunately, that's what I have to do.
As for the type of steel, I mainly use European AISI304, occasionally AISI316. AISI316 steel is difficult to obtain, more expensive and its physicochemical values are not used in such items. I work in the chemical industry and I know that the use of high-alloy makes sense only in industry.
Ta. Btw, did you personally buy off Etsy or the main Stando site?
Stando Puzar OC – Soumi (Poland)
007 – Licenced to Thrill. No, that’s the serial number engraved on this razor, but it does offer an introduction to the Stando Puzar razor. There were different heads on offer with differing efficiency levels, some were advertised as mild – no thanks, some were dual comb - pass; one only mid aggression razor left, therefore the selection of the Puzar (Claw) with its OC plate was quite simple in the end. It’s a solid head that includes some complex machining and a large blade clamp zones at very edge of the cap. Instead of being radiused, the top of the Puzar cap has a flat area and the angular sections are also flat. Stando again skimped on the length of the handle post, it would have been nice for it to be longer. With the intent of gaining as much thread length as possible, the supplied nylon washer was removed for the shave. Blades are loaded onto round posts located on the top of the plate and engraved into a recess in the rear are the razor essential details including the model’s name. Coarse teeth with wide gaps are used to achieve the OC and feel quite smooth on the face even when dry. Other handles were advertised but it was the Soumi handle that was fitted to the Puzar; it never entered my head to ask for another style of handle to be fitted but the Soumi handle looks good and from previous experience it does work exceptionally well. With the whole razor finished in a bead blasted satin finish, it has what I call, a very appealing appearance.
While loading the blade I was thinking of other razors with angular flats on the cap where the razor rides on the top corner and takes away the blade to face contact. Stando have sharpened the departure angle on the Puzar cap so it’s pleasing to report that there was nothing to complain about. This is enough razor to grab your attention with an efficiency slightly above that of the Karve CB level #D and for a razor in the above mid aggression range, the shave was exceptionally smooth and very comfortable. Blade feel was present in a very pleasing amount but if you started getting sloppy in your technique, I feel sure it would certainly remind you. The teeth of the open comb are felt during each pass but that produces a soothing affect. Other than for the length of the blade post, this is a one very well made razor that produced exceptional results.
Note: As much as I liked Stando Puzar, I have been informed that this model has been updated and will be replaced with an updated version named the Cat Claw. I have one on order and hope to review it before the end of the year.
Blades Used – Gillette Platinum and Feather
Material – 304 Stainless Steel
Blade Tab - Covered
Weight – 106g
Head Width – 43.04mm
Handle Length – 90.00mm
Handle Diameter – 12.00mm
Availability – Stando Polska/ Etsy
Final Word – It’s good